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Post by bobwright on Mar 27, 2024 16:36:08 GMT -5
You buying a box, or a gun?
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Mar 27, 2024 16:33:24 GMT -5
First get the shop's permission to examine the revolver. Then check to be dead certain it is empty. Being in a dealer's display case is no guarantee the gun is empty.
Then, when you have permission, simply look over the revolver. Hopefully you will know what a complete Bisley looks like, no open screw holes where a screw might be missing, no obvious gouges in the metal~in short, no external damage. Then cock the hammer, noting the cylinder rotation, or lack of it. With the hammer at full cock, try to rotate the cylinder. There should be no play, or very slight play in the cylinde, it should be locked up tight. Try to move it back and forth, checking for end play. Ease the hammer down to the fired position. See if the firing pins protrudes through the frame. Draw the hammer back to the first notch and press he trigger; the hammer should not fall. Draw the hammwer back to the second position, the cylinder should be able to rotate freely by turning with the hand. Again press the trigger, firmly but not trying to force it back. The hammer should not move. With the hammer fully cocked, hold pressure on the hammer to keep it from flhying forward and press the trigger. The trigger shold "break" with only slight pressure and ease the hammer down. If the gun passes all these tests, its mechanically functional. If undue force is required, there is a problem.
Bar in mind, even if the gun fails, its a 100 year old gun. If the price is atractive enough, it might be worthwhile buying the gun as parts are available for minor repairs. All this ballyhoo about history aside, you might even consider having it restored to like new condition, even fitting custom grips.
It all depends how much money you want to throw at the thing.
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Post by bobwright on Mar 18, 2024 20:24:48 GMT -5
For me, its a .45 Colt with heavy JHP bullets, Winchester nickel cases.
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Mar 15, 2024 9:17:14 GMT -5
I do not think 45 Cowboy brass will fit in the 45 ACP cylinder. I have heard that it did fit the ACP cyinder. Yet the only one I know who had the experience told me it would not fit his cyinder. a mite too long. When it was first introduced one of its stated advantages is that it would work in SASS revolvers with both .45 Colt cyinders, and .45 ACP cylindders. I have never bought any .45 Cowboy Special brass, but made my own by cutting down .45 Colt Brass. (This was salvaged brass that had neck splits and was destined for the scrap bucket.) Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Mar 14, 2024 11:03:59 GMT -5
I'm in the same position. Few years ago I had only a few plain holsters, now blamed if I'm not really a "collector" of the things. And mine of late have been "made to specifications" from some of the big names. A few of late: Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Mar 12, 2024 8:49:11 GMT -5
Somehow or another, seem to be bissing something here..............
You are thinking of shooting .45 Cowboy Special ammunition in a S&W Mountain gun chambered for .45 ACP? Is this correct?
If your revolver is truly a .45 ACP it is made to use clips, either full moon or half moon clips, or it wiil take .45 Auto Rim without clips. Am I right (Wright?) so far? If this is the case, there will be too hunch headspace to use the .45 Cowboy special. But if your revolver is for the .45 Colt cartridge everything will be O.K.
AS a matter of note, I have made my own .45 Xtra Short cutting down .45 Colt brass and firing these in the ACP cylinder in my Ruger Balckhawks. Note that I am cuting SALVAGED brass, not sound .45 Colt cases.
Please elucidate.
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Feb 24, 2024 16:31:40 GMT -5
And, further..........................Jay Scott grips appeared abut the same era. They were more solid and fairly nice looking, but were bonded on a hardwood backing which really detracted from their looks.
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Feb 24, 2024 16:25:32 GMT -5
I don't have all the dates and pertinent data at hand, but Fitz grips were contemporary with Franzite grips. Franzite grips were bettet looking, in my opinion, but were equally flimsy. Here is my Ruger "in the day" with Franzite grips: And here is a Hy Hunter with plastic "stag" grips: Bill Wilson introduced Great Western revolvers about 1953 or 1954 which competed, sort of, with Ruger. He offered a close copy of the Colt SAA, intended for movie use, which had simulated stag plastic grips. Even then, ivory grips were expensive, though available. And both elk stag and Sambar stag could be had, but sources were little publicized or advertised. I remember seeing ads for stag grips in a small ad in the classified sections of some magazines. But Hollywood piqued the interest in "stag" grips and these were readily available via mail order, as were the guns at that time. And, no, there was no connection with the Fitz Specials. Believe his name was Fitzhugh (? spelling) and he would have no no truck with plastics. Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Feb 17, 2024 22:42:38 GMT -5
I'm a mite courious why you'd consider an FA in .357 Magnum. I'm not fmailiar with the FA revolvers, but I'm of the opinion a New Model Blackhawk is ovebuilt for the .357 catridge. Its my opinion, opinion only, that the Colt New Frontier and mid-Frame Ruger are optimum frames for the .357 and .44 Special.
As for the 7 1/2" bbl. length, I'm fond of that length for hunting. I've walked many pastures hunting ground hog carrying a Super Blackhawk. And had great success with my .44s all with the 7 1/2" barrel.
And as long as the 7 1/2" barrel is the subjuct, I've long thought a flat top, Ruger of Colt, in .32-20 fitted with a 7 1/2" barrel would be a great, if not ideal, varmint revolver.
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Feb 16, 2024 10:21:55 GMT -5
Nice pair!!!!!!!!! I'd say that FT .44 was most likely a 6-1/2" barrel originally. More than likely. But the Stoeger catalong did list barrels of 7 1/2" and 10 1/2" lengths. And, correct me if I'm wrong, but weren't the Flat Top .44 Magnums and Super Blackhawks offered concurrently for a brief time? Seems I remember both being displayed in the Shooter's Bible. Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Feb 10, 2024 12:48:34 GMT -5
Are you planning to make it into a parts gun?
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Jan 21, 2024 10:00:35 GMT -5
Very nice Huey, but it's not complete without a 6.5 in the group , nothing is final, except death For me, not even that. To quote the late Adrian Rogers: "Once you were not, but now that you are, there never will be a tikme when you will not be." Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Jan 20, 2024 10:46:11 GMT -5
A one-of-a-kind would be the New Model Flat Top .44 Magnum built at Skeeter Skelton's death. Specially engraved with ivory stocks ans Skeeter's Bar T brand kinsert into the grips. And the case hardened Single Six used in the introductory article in the Gun Digest. Also a highly engraved Single Six for some purpose which I forget now. And, I believe any Ruger with the certificate from Sally Skelton authenticating it having been in Skeeter's collection. A friend of mine acquired this from the Skelton auction. Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Jan 20, 2024 10:21:34 GMT -5
many years ago I had a Jim Dandy .45 ACP load used in my S&W M625. It used the Siera 185 gr. JHC (Jacketed Hollow Cavity) bullet that clock at an average of 1290 f.p.s. using Accurate powder, No.5 I believe, maybe No. 9. Never took anything big with with. Harold Tibbits, then with Accurate, checked my loads in their lab and tol me never use these in an autoloader, but were o.k. in my revolvers.
Crows hit by one of these simply exploded.
Bob Wright
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Post by bobwright on Jan 18, 2024 10:38:05 GMT -5
As to the front sight and ramp of the New Frontier I've sort of made do with it. But when I customized my SAA I chose the Ruger Balmkehawk ramp and sikght: This old Colt, by the way, is a .357 Magnum, with S&W rear sight, Ruger front sight, 1851 Navy backstrap and home made walnut grips. Its a .38 Special as far as I'm concerned. Bob Wright
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