New Model Ruger Trigger Job by Bradshaw

[Joe S.]

Up.

I referenced this tonight to work on my Bisley Hunter.

Good stuff.

[ncrobb]

leftysixgun This is the thread I was talking about this week.

[leftysixgun]

Feb 17, 2019 9:36:02 GMT -5 ncrobb said:

leftysixgun This is the thread I was talking about this week.

Yep, I thought of this thread when you had mentioned it. I was hoping it was the same as you mentioned. I may strip one down and try it today.
Thanks Rob

[GunHawk]

Is this information available for an OM Blackhawk?

*****

GunHawk.... Ruger “old model" lockwork is based on the Colt Peacemaker. Geometry differs from the Ruger New Model. Absence of a sharp notch in the undercut dog of the New Model hammer facilitates any tuning of this area. In addition, a much wider CONTACT PATCH between TRIGGER SEAR and HAMMER DOG on the New Model:
1) insures strength of engagement.
2) allows for a clean break with minimal engagement.
3) stronger engagement for leather work and fast draw. Note, this tune has take-up, which should be adjusted dead smooth.

To tune an old model trigger and hammer, we begin with factory spec parts. If a fugitive trigger job has been done, or the parts abused, they must be replaced or dressed to original angles. To remove metal from the TRIGGER SEAR shortens full cock. Aside from a lousy cocking stroke, the slop eventually peens the interface between hammer and trigger. Which in time degrades LETOFF.

Skill with a dead-square stone is required to touch up the notch of an old model hammer. Most stones don’t come close to having sharp, true corners. (Only the finest white ceramic or cutter need apply. Any other stone will radius the notch.) Otherwise, the TRIGGER SEAR will seat unevenly under the HAMMER DOG; a glitch is felt as the rigger is squeezed. Sharpshooting flows from old model letoff without trying to make it break as clean as a silhouette-grade trigger job on a New Model.

If your “old model” has a smooth take-up----and many of the old factory guns do----leave it alone. If there is a glitch in take-up, find it by feel or with magnification, and dress (very fine stone, such as white ceramic).
David Bradshaw

[GunHawk]

Feb 20, 2019 1:36:05 GMT -5 GunHawk said:

Is this information available for an OM Blackhawk?

*****

GunHawk.... Ruger “old model" lockwork is based on the Colt Peacemaker. Geometry differs from the Ruger New Model. Absence of a sharp notch in the undercut dog of the New Model hammer facilitates any tuning of this area. In addition, a much wider CONTACT PATCH between TRIGGER SEAR and HAMMER DOG on the New Model:
1) insures strength of engagement.
2) allows for a clean break with minimal engagement.
3) stronger engagement for leather work and fast draw. Note, this tune has take-up, which should be adjusted dead smooth.

To tune an old model trigger and hammer, we begin with factory spec parts. If a fugitive trigger job has been done, or the parts abused, they must be replaced or dressed to original angles. To remove metal from the TRIGGER SEAR shortens full cock. Aside from a lousy cocking stroke, the slop eventually peens the interface between hammer and trigger. Which in time degrades LETOFF.

Skill with a dead-square stone is required to touch up the notch of an old model hammer. Most stones don’t come close to having sharp, true corners. (Only the finest white ceramic or cutter need apply. Any other stone will radius the notch.) Otherwise, the TRIGGER SEAR will seat unevenly under the HAMMER DOG; a glitch is felt as the rigger is squeezed. Sharpshooting flows from old model letoff without trying to make it break as clean as a silhouette-grade trigger job on a New Model.

If your “old model” has a smooth take-up----and many of the old factory guns do----leave it alone. If there is a glitch in take-up, find it by feel or with magnification, and dress (very fine stone, such as white ceramic).
David Bradshaw

Thank you for the information, my OM has a little creep in the trigger but breaks clean. Brad

[bigbrowndog]

I’m resurrecting Methusalla, because it’s good info and I needed to go back and look at it, to set up a new trigger and hammer to my 357max. Hopefully yall find it worthwhile.

Thanks again to David for the drawings, I’ve bookmarked this for myself, suggest others consider doing the same.

Trapr

[Big Bore]

Bringing this to the top since I’ve got a NM Blackhawk on the way and needed a refresher.  Bookmarked for future reference.