gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Mar 7, 2017 0:39:58 GMT -5
If your just starting out and don't know if it'll be your thing, start out with a couple of 4" and 6" Nicholson bastard and mill files, get a belt sander and safe the edges and a set of needle files. As you get going, you can also add some chain saw files to help you out. Once you start to figure it out, you can stick with the Small Nicholsons and replace as needed or step up to the groberts. As stated, you can easily end up with 600 to well over a grand in files.
Once you have the part close, switch to the smoother cutting files then sanding boards.
Sanding board I learned to make during a Vickers 1911 class. You start off with 5 gal paint stir sticks, spray them and some 220 or 320 wet dry paper with 3M spray adhesive and afix the paper to one side. Take a razor knife and run it down the edge gently scaring the paper and fold. Cut again and fold till you have wrapped the paper all the way around. Trim off the remainder of the paper.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jul 12, 2016 0:50:19 GMT -5
Been using Desert Jizz for some time. 9 parts alcohol, 1 part twb25 and a flux bush on all semi autos. It was originally developed or used for the Mk 19 program and branched out from there.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jul 12, 2016 0:37:53 GMT -5
I've got a g3 20 SF with KKM barrel. Ugly as sin but alot of gun for the money. I always wanted am1911 style pistol in 10 but didn't care for the unsupoorted barrel in the colt. Now, with more knowledge under my belt I might just build a ramped barrel 10. The question is long slide or guberment. I don't need it for carry, just a woods gun so it'll have adjustable sights, standard Wilson parts, Caspian frame and slide. Was thinking of a Barstow gunsmiff barrel so I can fit all radial lugs before fitting hood length (38,5 psi) so its not locking up on 1 or 2 radials. CS is alot more forgiving in this respect than SS.
Right now, if I had to have a nice 10mm, I'd probably do Dan Wesson, if money was no object Wilson. Greg
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jul 12, 2016 0:18:14 GMT -5
rWt - What's wrong with a rebounding hammer. To a traditionalist, it is not the way it was originally designed. To me, it make a terrible trigger pull even after working the surfaces over because it is so oversprung to get the hammer face inertia up in half the distance the original had. Basically lawyers meddling where common sense management left and penny pincher scaredy cats took over.
Consider the 16" to 20" barrels to a bird gun. 16" is quicker to the shoulder/target and handier in the brush than a 30" tube. Same same. I like the compactness of a 16" over the loss of ME but I miss the longer sight radius. It could be fixed with a tang sight but just don't believe they belong on a trapper.
If you happen to pick up a Rossi, check out Steve Jones's peep sight that replaces the firing pin block safety on the bolt. Greg
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jul 11, 2016 23:20:54 GMT -5
rWt - What's wrong with a rebounding hammer. To a traditionalist, it is not the way it was originally designed. To me, it make a terrible trigger pull even after working the surfaces over because it is so oversprung to get the hammer face inertia up in half the distance the original had. Basically lawyers meddling where common sense management left and penny pincher scaredy cats took over.
Consider the 16" to 20" barrels to a bird gun. 16" is quicker to the shoulder/target and handier in the brush than a 30" tube. Same same. I like the compactness of a 16" over the loss of ME but I miss the longer sight radius. It could be fixed with a tang sight but just don't believe they belong on a trapper.
If you happen to pick up a Rossi, check out Steve Jones's peep sight that replaces the firing pin block safety on the bolt. Greg
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jul 11, 2016 22:36:36 GMT -5
Sierra 77s, wolf SRM primers, H322.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on May 29, 2016 0:26:58 GMT -5
rWt, the only advantage I see with both the Trappers that I have owned, has been quick mountfsight picture and alittle lighter -vs- extra capacity (I think one cartridge) and the added length and weight of the barrel to help for a smoother swing.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Apr 10, 2016 18:51:57 GMT -5
It all depends on the scope and the correction needed. All scopes are are designed to focus the target and crosshairs together at one focal distance. Scopes are set up with either an adjustable objective or a fixed parallelex distance i.e. 50y for 22lr type scopes, 100y for general hnting scopes so you may be trying to use a scope beyond its designed focal distance. Second, you may need to se your reading glasses to focus at the eye lense of your scope.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Mar 11, 2016 15:50:32 GMT -5
Over the past two years, I've had three Winokus follow me home, a 20" carbine in 357, a 20" octogon rifle in 32-20 and a take down trapper in 45 colt. Mods to date have been spring work, polishing sear & hammer hook, delete rebounding hammer, minor thoating of breach (breaking hard edge), slick up the action, replace/reduce ejector spring. The 45 colt required the bottom edges of the cartridge guides be beveled slightly to ease the shell lifter raising with large WFN cartridges on it.
I plan on putting a Lyman or Marbles tang peep on the 32-20 but haven't been home enough the past two years to shoot it more often.
Since leaving on this last adventure, I picked up a DVD from Steve Jones, AKA: The Rossi Leversmith on slicking up the 92 actions. The only really hitch that I had left was the stall of the extractor going over the case rim which I read/experimented by carefully tapering a thinner section into the middle of the extractor in stages to relieve some tension on the extractor as it rides over the rim right before it locks up.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 31, 2016 15:49:45 GMT -5
Nice work Short Barrel. I love scrim and bulino. I frequent www.engravingforum.com/ and can sit for hours just looking like a window licker or mouth breather. It is a delicate and bueatiful art form. I j6st love it when it looks like a photograph. Unbelievable.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 25, 2016 19:30:46 GMT -5
Was chasing a felon once who tossed a series 80 10mm out of the car window. It went off when it hit the pavement....ain't supposed to do that! Don't you know, People don't shoot folks, it's the evils guns, they have a mind of their own.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 25, 2016 19:27:40 GMT -5
You have to be careful tinkering with overtravel screws in series 80 style FP safeties. If lockwork timing is changed significantly during trigger work, generally FP Safety linkage needs to be re-timed by reforging or installation of a NM upper arm. I like the safety defeated when all the slack is pulled out and am begining to load the trigger. To check, with an empty gun, load the trigger and use a punch to check the firing pin for free movement.
Grip safeties I generally sensitize so they are defeated at 50-60% depression.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 25, 2016 19:12:12 GMT -5
My general purpose bear mace dispenser is a G-20 SF. It's outfitted with a KKM barrel, night sights and a 22 lb recoil spring and - connector. I'd like to try a DW 10mm but they appear to be scarcer then hens teeth. If I ever get the 3 1911 builds on my bench cleard off and stll have a hankering, I might build a 10 with a W/N ramped barrel. I think a 10 would be easier to build than a 9 as far as reliability and feeding.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 25, 2016 19:04:08 GMT -5
I prefer tall Heine Straight 8s or 10-8 opened to .140 -.156 with a FO or Tritium front. Tall sights are generally intended for the shorter slide (Cmdr/Ofc) pistols. When building, I put a blank in the front and regulate to the carry ammo and purchase a FO or Tritium front sight. With a hardfit gunsmith barrel, off the shelf sight packages combos rarely print were desired perticularly if you flat top and serrate the top of the slide. My front sights are generally .200 to .230 tall.
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Jan 23, 2016 22:07:12 GMT -5
I just finished an 8-9 oz single shoulder that was used to make four holsters for a Glock 19, 20, Government model 1911 and a FA 83 7.5" pistol. The 8-9 was good. I've seen as low as doubled up 5-6 used so really it is the makers choice. I really like the 8-9 for general purpose because it is substatial enough as a single ply 1911s with a re-inforcement around the mouth and anything heavier (+42-45oz) can get a double ply glued together to add stiffness or support. This last 8-9 oz dbl shoulder I picked up is actually 10-11oz and is difficult to form and work in detail. I needed to finish off a mouth stiffner on an avenger style 1911 bucket and the bulk/thickness was abit difficult to work with.
I think the remainder of the piece is going to get used in a TD Trapper travel bag. Just finishing brainstorming how I'm going to build the wet mold form cause it is going to be a semi-hard case.
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