Old Model Hammer and Trigger Groupbuy LINK UP!!
Oct 22, 2023 13:34:14 GMT -5
northerngos and longoval like this
Post by RDW on Oct 22, 2023 13:34:14 GMT -5
These will all come with the plunger, spring and cross pin so you can just dropem in.
However the term drop in gets used loosely. Alot of the developement done here was to find a happy medium for loose and well worn pawls and triggers to the very tight.
These will require a tickle on the lower leg of the pawl arm if your gun is very tight and well timed. if it is worn , loose and sloppy, Probably not.
I opted to move things around and have done so to make it as close to perfection for all of you. It is easy to tickle the lower leg of the pawl arm because the cylinder is locking into battery before cocking than to have to add material to the leg if it cocks before complete follow up. Over 30 revolvers have been used to make these and 1 out of every 3 we had to give a couple of swipes to the lower pawl leg because it was locking before cocking. That means that if we would have not moved the sear location, 2 out of every 3 would not have carried up the cylinder far enough before cocking. Hope that did not offend anyone because i know a lot of you on here are very aware of timing issues, but then there are some who are not and this might help in explaining how much BS i went through here to make myself feel a little better about taking so long HAHAHAHA. Material issues have always been a problem but i have found the best 4140 i have ever worked with. The Hardness is comming out spot on and we are finishing up the process for case coloring these with Bobby Tyler, And we are almost their.
Here is what we have them looking like right now.
I tried several dozen ways to do this like rearanging the pawl arm location for more travel but found just making the sear section of the hammer .010 thousands longer was the ticket.
However the term drop in gets used loosely. Alot of the developement done here was to find a happy medium for loose and well worn pawls and triggers to the very tight.
These will require a tickle on the lower leg of the pawl arm if your gun is very tight and well timed. if it is worn , loose and sloppy, Probably not.
I opted to move things around and have done so to make it as close to perfection for all of you. It is easy to tickle the lower leg of the pawl arm because the cylinder is locking into battery before cocking than to have to add material to the leg if it cocks before complete follow up. Over 30 revolvers have been used to make these and 1 out of every 3 we had to give a couple of swipes to the lower pawl leg because it was locking before cocking. That means that if we would have not moved the sear location, 2 out of every 3 would not have carried up the cylinder far enough before cocking. Hope that did not offend anyone because i know a lot of you on here are very aware of timing issues, but then there are some who are not and this might help in explaining how much BS i went through here to make myself feel a little better about taking so long HAHAHAHA. Material issues have always been a problem but i have found the best 4140 i have ever worked with. The Hardness is comming out spot on and we are finishing up the process for case coloring these with Bobby Tyler, And we are almost their.
Here is what we have them looking like right now.
I tried several dozen ways to do this like rearanging the pawl arm location for more travel but found just making the sear section of the hammer .010 thousands longer was the ticket.
