Brass grip frames by Ronnie Wells

[wprovence]

So it seems my dream of having a Keith #5 is not out of my reach. I have a Ruger flattop 44mag Anniversary model. Should be able to make one from that?

[highplains]

Take it easy on your back 'mutha -

[Bagby]

Feb 21, 2020 21:15:47 GMT -5 needsmostuff said:

Enough crickets chirping.
Bout time to see some works in progress with these.
Seems like more than a few ought to be in circulation by now.
Where dey at ?

While this in not the actual thing yet, Here is a crude photoshop of what I am going for with the OM 357 I am working on.
I hope Mr. Wells does not mind that I used part of one of his pictures for this.



Thanks,
Jonathan.

[RDW]

Looking pretty sexy there Jonathon.

[highplains]

That Commander style Hammer is pretty cool. Probably able to light rounds off as quick as a 1911 if'n ya do it right...

[highplains]

Let's see some guns with RDW GRIPFRAMES -

[needsmostuff]

Mar 28, 2020 17:01:15 GMT -5 highplains said:

Let's see some guns with RDW GRIPFRAMES -

↑↑↑That's what I'm sayin ! ↑↑↑

Ronnie was doing the heavy lifting here on suppling the adrenaline pictures ,,,,,,, but he has been busy with other BS and problems.
Some of these have got to be getting ready to go . Heck , mid-completion in progress pictures would COOL and inspiring to see also.

Watcha got?

[cmh]

Any chance you’ll ever make a ruger styled bisley grip including hammer and trigger for the BFR?

[potatojudge]

I finally worked up the courage and came up with a mental game plan to start fitting these. Metalworking isn't my thing and this is my first attempt, but I think I'm getting the hang of it and the next one should be pretty straightforward. I decided to start with this 357 Max since the trigger guard disagrees strongly with my hands. I used the Dragoon style with a Bisley trigger guard to keep the overall aesthetic as intended. I tested a number of grip frames on this main frame and reassured myself of what many know: you'll get a MUCH better grip frame to main frame transition if you use a factory Bisley main frame with any of the Bisley or No 5 variations. Since I'm not welding the mainframe ears, I stuck with the general family of grip frame that best matches this mainframe.

This grip frame is about half fit and finished.

Tips:

I installed the grip frame then ran around the overlapping portion with a permanent marker to give me a rough idea what metal will be removed.

I did the initial bulk removal on a Work Sharp, which is a tool where plate glass has an adhesive applied then is spun like a record. It's capable of keeping the parts completely flat, but that's operator dependent and requires a touch. Mistakes are made faster on power tools, and that was definitely the case here. In the end, a good file would have been a safer choice.

I got a big pack of automotive wet/dry paper and 400-800 are the main grits you need. 220-300 would be better for general shaping and metal removal.

The bead blasted finish requires 400-600 grit to remove any remaining mill marks and the pebbled finish before final polish. This is what you'll need to do for parts that don't need fitting, only finishing.

There is no role for unbacked sandpaper here. Details should be done with a dowel or block wrapped in sandpaper. You'll get rounded edges and wavy finishes without backing.

The only way I could keep the sides flat was to put sandpaper on a granite tile and work the grip frame over the paper, which needs to be kept flat with adhesive or a holder. Because our appendages move in an arc rather than straight, flat lines hand held blocks and paper don't give a true flat surface like a granite block and using the flat of the part does.

Adding water to the paper allows for more aggressive cutting, but will roll the paper unless it's glued down.

Sanding flaps will save you time on the rounded portions. Store bought or make your own, just don't plan to do these parts by hand.

Brass cuts quick and the edges roll easily.

Use the same referent points to keep your part flat or you'll find yourself with a ridge in the middle and a V shaped surface.

#1 most important thing: If the grip frame isn't screwed on, it's not in its final position and has some wiggle room. You'll find yourself undersized in all dimensions if you don't check your fit with the screws in place. Worth sacrificial screws as even with the proper screwdrivers you'll find they show some wear after 25+ installations and removal.

[Bagby]

Man just seeing that. I can hardly wait for my No.5 grip frame to get here.

[needsmostuff]

Thanks potatojudge , much good information in there. Glad to see some nuts an bolts progress.

[potatojudge]

I did a little clean up work and rough shaping of the trigger guard area today. 150 grit cloth backed paper with either a flat or round backing as determined by the contour. Again, trying this without backing blocks is asking for rounded edges and wavy parts. I tried some sanding flaps on my Dremel, which was ok on the inside of the trigger guard but so-so on the concave portion of the grip and ill advised elsewhere. The flaps left some ridges that had to be worked out by hand using a dowel as a backer which would have been a huge pain if I'd put myself in that position with other areas of the part.

Tip: Ronnie gives you clean rounds and flats. Use them!! Preserve them!! Let his machine work guide you in the hand work because that's your best reference for flat, round, and square.

The area directly in front of the trigger guard, you can see how it was machined in three planes: the two lateral portions running alongside the trigger guard and the third portion in the middle that is a continuation of the front of the trigger guard. This is the only area that needed (well, still needs a little more) remedial work since there is a tiny ridge where these three cuts blend into another.

All in all, this part is turning out cleaner than pretty much every Ruger factory part I've seen. Mass production, rough casting, fast hand fitting and shaping all leave you a part that is best not examined closely. Heck, I have custom guns with gunsmith fit grip frames that aren't super clean in the trigger guard area. This supports what we discussed when these parts were coming to market: If you're having Bowen, Linebaugh, etc build you a gun you'll get better results with these grip frames than Ruger parts. There is just too much hand and remedial work with the Ruger parts, it becomes prohibitive (as Bowen states in his book, there's a loss of economy when you get to a certain point trying to correct Ruger guns).

[Bagby]

Looking good. 👍

[jordanb]

Thank you for sharing! Trying to decide between the mini bisley and the mini PJ....

Jordan

[potatojudge]

Apr 13, 2020 21:52:27 GMT -5 jordanb said:

Thank you for sharing! Trying to decide between the mini bisley and the mini PJ....

Jordan

My next fitting will be a mid sized aluminum PJ to a mid frame 44 special Bisley. Trust me when I say that round butting is a game changer. Not my design- it came from Dustin Linebaugh.