dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 31, 2021 7:53:32 GMT -5
Just curious but would someone let me know if the serial number is on the front strap. Looks like the front strap is clean. www.gunbroker.com/item/914672875I know why you ask... Pinnacle Hi-Power by Estate Sporting Limited (Ted Yost) Yep. That's the reason. Stipling works and can be done nicely, but 25 lpi (or 30 if necessary) is, well better
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 30, 2021 6:30:49 GMT -5
Just curious but would someone let me know if the serial number is on the front strap.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 30, 2021 6:25:55 GMT -5
May I suggest AA9 in your 327? I started using H110 in my 97 in 327 and then tried AA9 pretty quick. I also pretty quickly settled on 2 powders with AA9 being the slow and HS6 being the medium.
I use more H110 than any other powder in my revolvers, but I find AA9 to be my go to for the 327. Equivalent velocity and slightly better accuracy my 327 with my 3 molds (MP 115 GC and PB, Sledgehammer GC, and Accurate Molds 126).
I'll admit it's not a great time to suggest other powders...
I also use both AA9 and HS6 in my SS 32 H&R and they work just as well there for the same reasons.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 29, 2021 7:02:17 GMT -5
That's more like it! There's something about a heavier bullet in a 357.
As to shooting the 2400 loads and H110 loads at dusk for comparison, the H110 will win every time! Who needs night vision anyway?
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 26, 2021 21:36:11 GMT -5
I saw the new release yesterday. I love a Hi-Power myself but I only have one. Mine is the MkIII (ambidextrous long safeties) and was bought used. It has some finish missing on the front strap but is in very good condition otherwise. First thing done was a Cylinder and Slide hammer, sear, and removal of the magazine safety. Trigger pull is probably 3.5 pounds and not bad. It won't compete accuracy wise with my race toys but it doesn't need to.
As soon as I saw that SA had released a new Hi-Power, I looked for an extended tang and hoped for checkering of the front strap. I still can't tell of the serial number is on the front strap like my FN made gun. I've always wanted to send mine off for at least stipling of the FS and an extended tang, but it hasn't happened yet. I know I'll never carry mine anyway.
If I see one of these new SA versions, it may be hard to resist.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 25, 2021 17:38:04 GMT -5
It does. I just noticed where the red dot sat on on the SRH. You gotta do what you gotta do.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 25, 2021 8:39:56 GMT -5
That battery compartment must take a beating from the cylinder gap.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 25, 2021 7:25:07 GMT -5
I'm jealous of that white stuff (I think). I've seen what I consider deep snow only a few times in my life. Georgia and South Carolina isn't the area for it I suppose.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 24, 2021 18:58:20 GMT -5
Oops, double post!
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 24, 2021 18:41:26 GMT -5
The lightest bullet I load in the 357 is 158 grains but typically I go to 170-180 grain bullets. For me, H110 and a magnum primer will get sd's half of what you were seeing. Again, I use heavier bullets, either a Federal SPM or the 550 you were using, and a stout crimp.
Like Fowler stated, if I were to shoot lighter bullets in the 357, I'd go to a faster powder than the H110 burning rate powders.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 24, 2021 11:23:06 GMT -5
I'm going to go the BoreTech route. Thanks to dhd and loupuleff for the warning RE lead cloths. All of their products are good. No doubt some of the cleaners overlap each other in what they do. Knowing how well the Carbon Remover works on stainless, I use it on blued revolvers and it does a similar job there too. My shooting partner keeps a pimento jar about half full of Carbon Remover and drops his cylinders in there for long soaks. He says it's the lazy man's way to do the job.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 24, 2021 6:18:07 GMT -5
No high jack. Good info. It does have the rings. What do you suggest for cleaning? I have always wiped stainless cylinders with Birchwood Casey’s lead remover. Is that bad? BoreTech Carbon Remover is very good for this if you want the black gone. I'll let my cylinder face soak in a puddle of it for an hour or so. I can get the majority of the forcing cone area clean with a good soak and a stiff plastic tooth brush too. I put 35 rounds of slightly below maximum loads through my 454 83 yesterday and the Carbon Remover did it's typical fine job during clean up. I won't say I've never used a lead away cloth (patch) on a stainless cylinder face before but I now only use the BoreTech. I was told by FA to not use the lead away cloths.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 1, 2021 6:44:13 GMT -5
I started using LeverRevolution in the Grendel a long while back. Using 123 grain bullets (heavy for caliber), I've never found a better fit. Really good powder for both accuracy and velocity.
Going by the burn rate charts it seems to slow for how I use it, but in use it doesn't act slow. Goes to show that a burn rate chart is only a guide.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Sept 30, 2021 19:22:22 GMT -5
I couldn't help but add a counterpoint to what everyone else wrote. I was tempted to leave out my last sentence but didn't need to get flamed on a Thursday evening.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Sept 30, 2021 18:24:21 GMT -5
If you fire it, you've ruined the collector value. You bought it as a pristine unfired revolver and it should stay that way. Sell it to someone who will properly keep it in that state!
Someone may even believe what I wrote (but not me).....
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