5 shot conversion questions.

[t5malibuwagon]

I have decided to try and build a 5 shot cylinder for a ruger (probably a nm single six) and have more questions than knowledge. I have use of a lathe, mill, dividing head, heat treating furnace, Rockwell tester, and quite a bit of tooling but I'm very new to machine work so I thought that I might ask some questions that could save me some time and headaches. I was thinking that Id get some good hardwood to play with and see if I can make a wooden model before starting with metal.

How do I go about making the hand turn the cylinder the extra 12 degrees? Looks like if I welded up the hole in the hammer and drilled a new one farther from the pivot that I would get further travel out of the hand, and turn the cylinder farther. Will I need to work on the hand as well?

Is there an easy way to determine the relationship between the bolt notches and the ratchet for the hand? My thought on this is that this relationship shouldn't change between a 6 shot and a 5 shot as the relationship between the hand and bolt are the same. I'm really lost with this, any help will be appreciated.

I was wondering if anyone might be willing to share specifications on tooling to use for the Bolt notch, and ratchet. Ive seen picture where Lee used a wodruff key cutter for the notch and a wheel cutter for the ratchet but didn't catch what size of either was used. I'm sure this could change with frame size but something to start with on the wood model would be a nice.

Wheres the best place to find a 41cal barrel blank? Im thinking of building either a 25-20 or 41 special but cant locate a non stainless 41 blank. I guess Im a long way before I need to be looking but it never hurts to know.

[zeus]

The 41 will require the opening of the loading area. On a NM, that will make it show the internals as it will most likely open a small hole in the frame due to the transfer bar trough. Just a thought...

I have found that the easiest way to build the five shot is box up the gun and mail it to a smith that does it daily

[t5malibuwagon]

Well heck I was thinking of using a new model as it is already center fire and it would be a five shot instead of a four shot. Might need to rethink what I'm doing... But i still want to have the skill set to build a cylinder. I have no doubt that shipping my gun to a smith with a box of money is the easiest way, but also anyone can do it too.

[Aggie01]

The timing change is, I believe, managed by where you put the ratchet notches on the cylinder. The hammer is not modified. The hand may be. Think of as adjusting the timing on a car - you don't tweak the distributor, you move the distributor cap.

Use aluminum instead of wood. A wood cylinder would not hold up to most machining operations or proof of concept cycling. Several (if not all) of our top gunsmiths today figured out their cylinder work on aluminum cylinders.

You could make a center section with just the ratchet on it, then make an outer section with the bolt notches and tie them together with set screws to allow adjustment until you figure out the timing.

[Aggie01]

If you open up a NM Single Six loading gate trough for a larger rim than the .32, you get this:

[t5malibuwagon]

Aggie, I was thinking that wood might have a hard time holding up but it would allow me to get the feel of things. I might run wood until I get close and then build out of aluminum or even nylon. Heck I've got a block of phenolic that would also work and look pretty cool. I guess i was just trying to say I wasn't going straight to steel.

That loading window doesn't bother me at all. Thanks for the pic. Is that your gun? Whats it chambered for?

[Aggie01]

That was my .357 magnum Single Six, which I have since sold.

[t5malibuwagon]

Anyone ever build a single six 40 s&w? I doubt that its the best as it headspaces on the mouth so a taper crimp isnt an option but being rimless it doesn't have the mass of a 41. I think its .424 vs. .494.

[bushog]

The .41 SS I'm having built is on an OM which I understand eliminated the hole in the loading window.
Then you have to do the CF conversion though.

I think I remember Jack Huntington saying he has done the .40 on a SS.

[t5malibuwagon]

Whats a "CF conversion"

[frankenfab]

Malibu- go for it

I am getting ready to do the same thing. I'm going to buy a dividing head and hardness tester, and I have access to CNCs, and a buddy with an oven.

I think the person who said you adjust the height of the ratchet flats in relation to the base pin hole is right. Remember, we have some adjustment in that we can stretch the hand, and file the notches back to shorten the hand. Lots more leeway there than in the bolt notches. They must be perfect as far as off center distance from the base pin hole.

That's my inexperienced opinion, but I have spent a lot of time studying.

[bushog]

Center Fire

[frankenfab]

I have a 5 shot 500 Linebaugh, and another SBH 44 just like the one I sent to be converted. When I get time, I'll get them out and post pictures of the ratchets and hands side by side.

I am working on a single-six as well, for my first gun. .22 to 327. But I am going to do a .475 and a 500 as well. Thanks to the great informative posts by Lee here, I have the final pieces of critical information to keep from blowing my fingers off (heat treat specs).

I will be making test cylinders from AL as suggested, for getting the timing as close as possible. A single action is not a space shuttle, or atomic bomb. It is a simple mechanical device. I would like to think that I can figure the mechanical part out myself.

Best of luck,

Frank

[t5malibuwagon]

Nov 9, 2012 22:57:46 GMT -5 bushog said:

Center Fire

I was thinking new model 32 H&R. Thanks.

[frankenfab]

Funny, I will never forget getting flamed by a couple people on another form for suggesting a SS conversion to 327, even after Harton and Bowen are already selling them.

Then I join this place, and I see a 357 single six! I will not be doing that one, but I think it's awesome!