Re-blueing questions

[Mark Terry]

I've started a project to replace an aluminum gripframe with a steel unit. The new gripframe came to me blued and as a result of fitting it to the frame, the grip frame will require re-blueing.

I've searched and read as much as possible and have decided to go the hot blueing route. One of my questions is whether all of the existing blueing will need to be removed before re-blueing (AND if this is required or suggested, how is this done?).

A related question is what's generally done if a barrel is to be re-blued? Is the barrel plugged or just blued inside and out?

[Tx Gun Runner]

This stuff is almost as good as hot bluing . The video give you a demo and easy it is and it works . I did the lock and hammer on this gun .

www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunBlue.html

[nobearsyet]

I am pretty sure all of blueing has to be removed, and I am also pretty sure there are different "recipes" for the salts in the tank used by the major manufacturers so that has to be taken into account when trying to match to a factory bluing job, just my .02

[Mark Terry]

Nice job TN Gun Runner. I suppose I could try it and if I didn't like it I could re-do or find a professional.

[Aggie01]

Correct me if I'm wrong here -

My understanding is that the Blue Wonder is not a gun blue. It is a heat activated topcoat. "Bluing" is actually a chemical conversion of the outer layer of steel to black iron oxide (Fe3O4)
(vs red oxide Fe2O3 - rust)

The last time I stripped the bluing from a firearm, I used Birchwood Casey's blue and rust remover. It took off the bluing, the rust and ate part of my shirt and jeans where I spilled it. (didnt notice the damage to clothes until they came out of the wash/dryer - with holes)

[nobearsyet]

Vinegar works pretty good too, for that matter oven cleaner will strip the anodizing off of an alloy frame

[Aggie01]

Had a thought - are you just rebluing the grip frame, or are you doing the frame as well?

If you don't do them together, the chances of a "perfect" match are pretty slim. If you are ok with a slight mis-match, you might be money ahead to have someone whose set up do just the grip frame for you. The gripframe by itself wouldn't be too bad to have done commercially, I bet.

As far as the barrel, I doubt that they get plugged. Any bluing in there would get taken out as soon as you start shooting it.
I discussed a plating project with Mahovsky's and was given to understand that they don't plug barrels when they plate, but throw-in is minimal.

[Mark Terry]

Took the plunge, fitted the grip frame and hot blued. Not too bad if I say so myself. Aggieo1, you were correct in that the matching is not perfect; the new steel grip frame is deeper and darker than the frame however, it's one hell of lot better than the aluminum unit. Finish on the gripframe is better than the frame since I took a lot of time to polish the grip frame and remove almost all of the tool marks. I also replaced the ejector housing with a pre-blued steel unit from Brownell's. I may have become a finish / bluing snob - I could have done a better job on the housing polish and finish.






Then again, I could polish and reblue the whole gun.

[zeus]

thats a great job of polishing and bluing. What method did you use at home? Thanks. GS

[nobearsyet]

Looks good enough to pack to me

[Mark Terry]

I used the general formula that can be found on several web sites (like www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html). These gripframes came to me already blued ( I think the current ones come "in the white") and so I removed the original blueing with hydrochloric acid, fitted them using a fine file and progressively finer sandpaper and removed most of the tool marks.

It was a good learning experience and no real trouble provided you commit the time and go slow. Overall, I was quite pleased with the results however, in the future, I will avoid the aluminum grip framed guns, if possible and wait for steel framed guns. It is a lot of work, the bluing isn't a big part of it.

[zeus]

Thanks. I was just curious as to which recipe you used. What grit paper did you stop at to get that level of polish? It looks great and if done on the entire gun would be REALLY nice!! Thanks again.

GS

[Charger Fan]

I agree, that looks great! I'm sorta picky too & from here, that looks just as good as factory...if not better. Nice work!

[Mark Terry]

Thanks for the compliments. I was pretty pleased.

I stopped at 600 grit paper but I have to admit it was a pretty worn out 600 grit. I'd read a caution about bluing "not taking" on highly polished parts but based on this experience, I saw no indication or spotting effect. It was polished well enough to see your relection but not Flitz shiny. If I do it again, I will go for mirror-like. The hardest parts are the tight areas around the bottom of the trigger guard.

In my opinion, the refinished grip frame is better than the rest of the gun but I've got too many other projects to strip, polish, and refinish it all right now.

There is an old beater, 3 screw .357 I've been looking at though............

[zeus]

You did a great job. The gripframe reminds me of the Rugers in the old days when they had that deep bluing on them and the internals were super smooth. Probably the nicest factory guns I ever owned from Ruger as far as fit and finish were two transition guns that were built on NM frames with OM cylinders. The internals were buttery smooth and they had beautiful finishes on them. Thanks again for sharing....GS