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Post by z1r on Jan 15, 2024 13:03:36 GMT -5
Yes, I've used it to good effect when fitting auxiliary cylinders to single sixes. I've got a couple of projects involving cylinder swaps and plan to set endshake with new bushings rather than the gas ring stretcher.
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Post by hypervisor on Jan 15, 2024 18:15:14 GMT -5
After sleeping on it I thought of another possible solution. What if I make a shim and then carefully silver braze it to the gas ring, then slowly hone it down, until the cylinder fits into the frame. I shot the gun today with the orginal fluted cylinder and it shoots great. Sights from the factory are dead on for windage. We all know about elevation on a fixed sighted gun... diffrent load, hold high, etc. I do NOT intend to file the front sight. While at the range I talked with their gunsmith. He has done work for me in the past and we discussed the shimming solution. He thought that it would work. He said that would be the solution that he would choose.
Also today I held the gun up to the bright sunlight and there is a gap between the cyilnder and the barrel. It must be so small that my .002 feeler gage will not go between them, but it is there.
Question: What would be a good solder for this? I have a perfect stainless steel washer that I can use as a shim.
I apprecate everbody chiming in.
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Post by hypervisor on Jan 15, 2024 18:16:07 GMT -5
I should point out I owned one like that and just shot the heck out of it. If the load doesn’t lead or foul up the front of cylinder and cause problems turning don’t worry. Try it out. I may end up doing that.
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Post by hypervisor on Jan 15, 2024 18:27:04 GMT -5
Today I swapped the grip frame and the hammer for a Steel XR3 and a Super Hammer and Trigger. The inception of the idea came about when I got my Bearcat about 2 years ago. Attachments:
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steve
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,505
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Post by steve on Jan 15, 2024 19:11:13 GMT -5
That looks good!!
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Post by Stump Buster on Jan 19, 2024 0:44:51 GMT -5
I really like that.
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aciera
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,130
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Post by aciera on Jan 19, 2024 4:13:29 GMT -5
After sleeping on it I thought of another possible solution. What if I make a shim and then carefully silver braze it to the gas ring, then slowly hone it down, until the cylinder fits into the frame. I shot the gun today with the orginal fluted cylinder and it shoots great. Sights from the factory are dead on for windage. We all know about elevation on a fixed sighted gun... diffrent load, hold high, etc. I do NOT intent to file the front sight. While at the range I talked with their gunsmith. He has done work for me in the past and we discussed the shimming solution. He thought that it would work. He said that would be the solution that he would choose. Also today I held the gun up to the bright sunlight and there is a gap between the cyilnder and the barrel. It must be so small that my .002 feeler gage will not go between them, but it is there. Question: What would be a good solder for this? I have a perfect stainless steel washer that I can use as a shim. I apprecate everbody chiming in. .002 shim would be very hard to silver solder to I would think. Easy to overheat they thin shim You are using stainless……. Maybe remove some from the nose and make a thicker shim and then do it Brownells silversolder in a tube. Flux and metal mixed. Works very well. Low temp version. If you have a machine buddy…….make a nose and set it in the end of the cylinder And yes. Make it so it JUST fits. Even if it doesn’t turn well. And spin till it does. Oil on the ends
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 19, 2024 11:09:59 GMT -5
I am not gunsmith, but my 2 questions are:
1. How can I tell if the timing is “on”? How can I be sure the chambers and the forcing cone are in “acceptable” alignment?
2. What is the downside of having a very minimum barrel cylinder gap? ----hypervisor
*****
Answer
1) TIMING describes the entire sequence of lockwork movement & cylinder rotation between commencement of cocking and full cock, or hammer fall. On the factory floor, “timing” often refers to late CARRY-UP.
CARRY-UP and TIMING often mean the same thing. However, carry-up is specific to cylinder rotation. Late carry-up----whether by single or double action trigger stroke----means HAMMER FALL occurs before BOLT (aka STIOP or CYLINDER LATCH) engages the bolt notch. (Note: the bolt notch opposite the chamber to be fired determines lateral chamber alignment.)
2) CYLINDER GAP is too tight when cylinder face drags on barrel face. In the event of spitting, particulate especially jacket material can wedge between cylinder face and barrel face, seizing rotation.
An excess cylinder gap bleeds velocity, but does not degrade accuracy. David Bradshaw
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Post by hypervisor on Jan 21, 2024 16:51:57 GMT -5
Success! I was able to silver braze a stainless washer onto the gas ring. I honed down the washer to get it thiner than it was originally. I also took a little off the gas ring so that I could slip the "shim" between the frame and the gas ring. I took the silver solder and made a ring out of it, and used a small hammer to mash it as flat as I could get it. I laid this on the gas ring so that it was the same size as the washer. After putting som flux on it and laying the shim on top of it, I hit it with the torch. Nudging it with pliers to make sure it was perfectly aligned with the gas ring. Very quickly the solder melted. After cooling, the cylinder would not fit into the frame, by just a hair. A little filing, and honing and it finally dropped in. Function and timing seem to be good. Better than good. Locks up like a vault. I still have a very small cylinder gap. But, no matter how much I push with my hand I can not make the cylinder move forward and back. It has zero end shake. I am very pleased the way it turned out. Here is a picture of the stainless steel shim brazed on after fitting and cleanup. Attachments:
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Post by longoval on Jan 21, 2024 18:13:18 GMT -5
Nice work.
Question, why does the shim need to be fixed (in this case braised), to the gas ring? Why cant it float on the base pin between the gas ring and frame?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2024 18:45:55 GMT -5
Nice work. Question, why does the shim need to be fixed (in this case braised), to the gas ring? Why cant it float on the base pin between the gas ring and frame? Shims are not usually soldered in. Its best to avoid heating up hardened parts.
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Post by hypervisor on Jan 21, 2024 19:37:58 GMT -5
Nice work. Question, why does the shim need to be fixed (in this case braised), to the gas ring? Why cant it float on the base pin between the gas ring and frame? Shims are a cast iron B to use.
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Post by z1r on Jan 21, 2024 19:55:06 GMT -5
Nice work. Question, why does the shim need to be fixed (in this case braised), to the gas ring? Why cant it float on the base pin between the gas ring and frame? Shims are a cast iron B to use. Agreed. In A SAA clone, they go under the bushing, so not easy to lose. In a Ruger, nothing holds them in place.
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Post by hypervisor on Feb 3, 2024 18:33:13 GMT -5
I finally got to shoot it today. The point of impact was unchanged from the original fluted cylinder. I refinished the unfluted cylinder and it looks good. Really pleased how this project turned out. Attachments:
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Post by Stump Buster on Feb 4, 2024 19:07:36 GMT -5
Looks great and glad to hear it shoots as good as it looks.
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