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Post by x101airborne on Apr 10, 2024 9:22:50 GMT -5
Again I am jealous. The fitment of the blades is PERFECT!
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Post by contender on Apr 10, 2024 9:26:32 GMT -5
Serrations can diffuse bright light easier,, AND can be used for longer range elevation marks.
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Post by paleroadster on Apr 10, 2024 13:18:09 GMT -5
Serrations can diffuse bright light easier,, AND can be used for longer range elevation marks. These are more steps than serrations, but I think it's more inline with making elevation adjustments. Real serrations would be hard to focus on, at least at my age.  |
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Post by contender on Apr 10, 2024 20:56:22 GMT -5
That looks perfect! I LIKE it!
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Post by messybear on Apr 14, 2024 10:00:33 GMT -5
That last one is my favorite style. Like Linebaugh built. I make most of mine like that as well. The grooves are a good place to hold paint for elevation bars. Also a sight like that with a Ringler sight track holster is perfect. The flat top reduces holster gouging. Nice work
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Post by paleroadster on May 10, 2024 12:50:01 GMT -5
I'm currently off machining anything new. I do have completed three Single Six sight bases. One SS, polished to 1200 grit oiled paper, to match a factory gun it would probably need to be scuffed down with some grey or maroon scotchbrite.   I also have two 4140 bases polished the same, in the white, not blued.  I have an assortment of blades made up for these, they use a shorter than standard DX tang to maintain visual balance. A standard DX can be modified by cutting .050" off the bottom of the tang, but many standard DX blades are a little long for these bases.  I'm not sure how much interest there might be in these. These three bases are not my final cross pinless design, the pins are in matching material, the SS pin is 316 and the 4140 are alloy steel, so should blue right along with the rest of the base. I would sell these for $75 each delivered to the lower 48 with one blade. The fiber optic blade, brass blades, or brass bead blades would be an extra $10. You can PM if you want to buy multiple blades or have any questions. the retention screw is 4-40 tool steel, so the brass blades can be marred by it, I haven't gotten around to figuring out a solution yet, but be aware a little too much torque could be a problem when trying to remove it later as it might deform the brass. All the non brass blades are tool steel black oxided. Thanks for looking! |
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dennyl
.30 Stingray
Upright and breathing
Posts: 161 
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Post by dennyl on Jun 27, 2024 16:29:33 GMT -5
I need a front sight on my SBH project.
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Post by paleroadster on Jul 1, 2024 5:28:25 GMT -5
I need a front sight on my SBH project. I don't currently have any available time for projects, if you can measure the height of your current sight I can go through all the bases I've already made this weekend and see if I have something already done that would work. |
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Post by paleroadster on Oct 18, 2024 13:45:07 GMT -5
This morning I had my first chance to do some metal work in a while. Still trying to perfect my design. I made a base with no cross pin, so I was able to fully contour the sides. And after some serious reflection time I figured out a simple modification for the mounting screw that doesn't require a wide top surface. This one isn't done yet, no set screw threaded hole in the front, and there is some meat still at the bottom and hasn't been cut to barrel contour, nor has any polishing been done yet, just as I took it off the machine. And I had previously made some solder on bases to minimize size, this Single Six size screw on base is only about .060" longer than the super short solder base. I'm a little excited about this one, feels like I'm getting close to what I feel it should be.
You can see how small the screw hole for mounting is above.
the above came out a bit blurry, I think you can see the side contour real well though.
I'm not sure if I prefer the front of the blade to be flush with the front of the base, like the bottom picture, or to have a reveal like the top picture yet. The the reveal on the top is bigger than I prefer, this is a very first base, and needs a couple slight adjustments, Keeping the blades flush to the front does require more time/effort in fitting them as I polish and fit the blades at the same time, these are all blades I had on hand from other bases.
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Post by bradshaw on Oct 19, 2024 10:11:02 GMT -5
.... feels like I'm getting close to what I feel it should be. the above came out a bit blurry, I think you can see the side contour real well though. I'm not sure if I prefer the front of the blade to be flush with the front of the base, like the bottom picture....Keeping the blades flush to the front does require more time/effort in fitting them as I polish and fit the blades at the same time, these are all blades I had on hand from other bases.
***** paleroadster.... excellent work. Interchangeable front blades are a shooter’s friend. Both the target and ramp blades of S&W and Ruger sights flush to the sight base, the cleanest, must elegant solution. To set the blade back on its base makes the base appear blocky and larger than it is. David Bradshaw |
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