|
Post by bradshaw on Apr 8, 2021 22:06:36 GMT -5
"To my limited knowledge, certain if not all anti-seize compounds are of an abrasive nature.... ” ----leadhound
*****
I have a country simple request: prove DECLARATIVE STATEMENT on the Firing Line. I read my guns in action. David Bradshaw
|
|
|
Post by ddixie884 on Apr 8, 2021 23:36:55 GMT -5
I use synthetic 2 cycle oil for most all of my gun oil needs. Am I messing up? It penetrates well and frees sticky mechanisms and cleans out really well. Share with me what I am missing, Please.........
|
|
|
Post by magnumwheelman on Apr 9, 2021 10:45:39 GMT -5
previous posters on this thread have much longer pedigrees than I... but here is what I do ( my 2 cents worth... just so you know the value )
I use KROIL on my bores after cleaning, a wet swab, followed by a dry swab, to help reduce any fouling, the next time it's shot... & I add a drop of KROIL at the front & rear of the cylinder ( extracter star out, on double actions ), when I'm nearing completion of detail cleaning... then wipe off any that leaks out a couple times as needed, prior to reloading or storage... never had a sticky or worn cylinder, or base pin ( on single actions )
|
|
bouddha
.30 Stingray
You can drown in hamster piss, but it might take a while.
Posts: 162
|
Post by bouddha on Apr 9, 2021 16:33:47 GMT -5
Years ago I started running a patch kinda wet with Eezox, and letting it dry in the bore as the last step in my cleaning regimen. I now do the same to the piston in my Sig 5.56XI...MUCH easier to clean!
|
|
|
Post by tullymars on Apr 9, 2021 21:52:57 GMT -5
What is the best lube to use on the rear and the front of cylinders to prevent premature wear and tear etc.? Both on SA and DA revolvers? Thanks No specific oil was mentioned but John Linebaugh says to always put a drop of your oil of choice on the nose and ratchet area of the cylinders of the big bores.
|
|
|
Post by leftysixgun on Apr 10, 2021 19:16:58 GMT -5
I recently traded into a 45 Colt Vaquero Sheriff. After taking the cylinder out of the gun a few times I noticed there was still oil present on the cylinder nose each time. I contacted the guy I traded with and asked what oil/lube he used on the gun and he said Break Free. I have since switched to Break Free since I had some on hand. Point being.....I dont think it matters what oil it is as long as it stays where it belongs or where we put it. What we each prefer....so be it, as long as it stays where we put it.
Although I still like the bacon grease suggestion someone made, hahahahaha
|
|
awp101
.401 Bobcat
TANSTAAFL
Posts: 2,634
|
Post by awp101 on Apr 11, 2021 10:11:41 GMT -5
None of these guys know doodelysquat.......just have a plate of bacon and smear some bacon grease on it. 😂 The breakfast AND firearms lube of champions.
|
|
KRal
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,029
|
Post by KRal on Apr 11, 2021 18:11:38 GMT -5
What is the best lube to use on the rear and the front of cylinders to prevent premature wear and tear etc.? Both on SA and DA revolvers? Thanks I don’t know if it’s the best, but I’ve used white lithium grease on the front and rear of my revolver cylinders for over 30 years - I live in the south.
|
|
|
Post by foxtrapper on Apr 11, 2021 19:22:24 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by sixshot on Apr 11, 2021 19:30:27 GMT -5
I've used Tetra Gun products for years, don't see any reason to change. A very little bit on front & rear ratchet & the base pin & then I work the action & wipe things down, done! Oops, I check for loose screws before the next match, I hate hunting for ejector rod housings!
Dick
|
|
|
Post by rkcohen on Apr 12, 2021 9:23:34 GMT -5
"what is the best lube.."
....this has always been the best way to start fights at nascar events, family picnics and barber shops for years!!
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on May 5, 2021 8:01:34 GMT -5
Cleaning it out often is gonna be key, abrasive action is going to cause more wear than the components rubbing against themselves. No lubrication is going to protect a metals structural integrity from peening or wallowing, that is in the alloy and heat treatment. To my limited knowledge, certain if not all anti-seize compounds are of an abrasive nature. Glocks use to come brand spanking new with a smear of copper anti-seize to break in and wear in the action. I assume they still do? Sharp internal parts will wear at each other, making metal shavings, creating undo wear if not cleaned and cleared out. ***** If Anti-Seize Compound is abrasive, why haven’t I seen evidence on numerous carbon steel and stainless revolvers serving me over the years? As for beak-in on a Glock, the pistol doesn’t require break-in. In my experience, the break-in caper is mostly an alibi for a gun jamming. I’ve been waved off by so-called grown men who insist on shooting their new auto pistol DRY----"until it’s broke in.” My inclination is to clean & lube a firearm before shooting it. This often includes a strip-clean. David Bradshaw
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on May 5, 2021 12:42:40 GMT -5
What is the best lube to use on the rear and the front of cylinders to prevent premature wear and tear etc.? Both on SA and DA revolvers? Thanks ***** Webber.... lube applied to base pin finds its wy to front & rear cylinder hubs. Lube applied the rear hub (ratchet) gets on the base pin. Over the years I’ve used good variety of lubes. I like lube on single action hammer and trigger; treatment includes sear tip (trigger) and full cock dog (hammer). My trigger jobs don’t rely on lube. i believe a clean break holds longer. Aside from proper angle engagement, longevity of a (proper) trigger job relies on metallurgy. Inferior hardware (steel), absence of proper heat treatment, guarantee a dead-clean break won’t last. When S&W made stainless steel hammers & triggers, single action tune soon wore off. In contrast, Sturm, Ruger used a tougher grade of stainless. Single action tunes I did on Redhawks and stainless Super Blackhawks in the 1980’s continue true to this day. From my own shooting, stainless hammers & triggers made by Ruger are unexcelled. Two extremes Lube vs Dry occupy my experience: Must lube* Remington Model 700, XP-100, et al bolt action. Locking lugs (bolt) & locking lug abutments (receiver ring). Keep dryT/C Contender locking lugs. David Bradshaw
|
|
|
Post by lar4570 on May 5, 2021 20:58:19 GMT -5
While at a Linebaugh Seminar in Cody, John told me that he uses Havoline Motor oil, the same stuff he uses in his truck. FWIW Glenn.
|
|
|
Post by paul105 on May 5, 2021 21:32:12 GMT -5
Grant Cunningham had several recommendations IIRC. One was Synthetic Transmission Fluid which I've been using for the last 10 or 15 yrs. Grant Comment: Revolver lot less stressful environment than transmission or something to that effect.
FWIW,
Paul
|
|