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Post by webber on Apr 7, 2021 8:00:35 GMT -5
What is the best lube to use on the rear and the front of cylinders to prevent premature wear and tear etc.? Both on SA and DA revolvers?
Thanks
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Post by 45MAN on Apr 7, 2021 8:23:12 GMT -5
GOOD QUESTION, I DO NOT KNOW THE ANSWER. ON MOST OF MY REVOLVERS I LIKE TO PUT A DROP OR 2 OF LIGHT OIL ON AFTER A SHOOTING SESSION. i.e. PRIOR TO THE NEXT SHOOTING SESSION.
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Post by webber on Apr 7, 2021 8:30:27 GMT -5
I am sure the way I do it is wrong but I use STP on the each end. It clings better but I was wondering if there is something better.
Lucas Red and Tacky seems to stay on good too.
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Post by Encore64 on Apr 7, 2021 8:53:41 GMT -5
I use TetraLube Grease for guns. Comes in a small tube and works well. I'm sure there are a number of great products that work well...
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bouddha
.30 Stingray
You can drown in hamster piss, but it might take a while.
Posts: 162
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Post by bouddha on Apr 7, 2021 8:55:51 GMT -5
I use TW-25, it stays put and doesn't attract dirt & dust. Works in very cold weather, too.
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weiler
.30 Stingray
Posts: 423
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Post by weiler on Apr 7, 2021 8:58:58 GMT -5
i use anti seize mixed with synthetic motor oil
David bradshaw (where i got the anti seize lubricant idea from) has some good info in his photo essays on lubrications
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 7, 2021 9:21:29 GMT -5
What is the best lube to use on the rear and the front of cylinders to prevent premature wear and tear etc.? Both on SA and DA revolvers? Thanks ***** My preferred treatments include.... Anti-Seize Compound* Ratchet (rear hub) on stainless steel single and double actions. * Base pin on stainless single actions. * Ratchet and base pin on blued steel single actions exposed to high volume fire. (Lubing ratchet & base pin also lubes front cylinder hub.) Moly disulfide grease* Lockwork of single and double action revolvers. * Ratchet and base pin of blued single actions. * Springs weit wear surfaces. Synthetic motor oil (regular motor oil is fine except against hard freezing)* All moving gun parts, if grease not available or shooter just prefers oil. * Cylinder pin of double actions. * Elevation & windage screws of adjustable sights. Brownells Dry-Slide (moly disulfide in evaporative medium)* .22 auto pistols expose to hard freezing * Handguns exposed to water, followed by hard freeze, where ice on dry steel acts as glue. * Blowing sand, where wet lub holds dust. There are no absolutes. Except, I absolutely prefer lubrication on steel. David Bradshaw |
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,422
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Post by JM on Apr 7, 2021 9:38:14 GMT -5
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Post by bigbrowndog on Apr 7, 2021 9:57:23 GMT -5
David doesn’t know doodelysquat, this is what you should use.........
Anti-Seize Compound
* Ratchet (rear hub) on stainless steel single and double actions.
* Base pin on stainless single actions.
* Ratchet and base pin on blued steel single actions exposed to high volume fire. (Lubing ratchet & base pin also lubes front cylinder hub.)
Moly disulfide grease
* Lockwork of single and double action revolvers.
* Ratchet and base pin of blued single actions.
* Springs weit wear surfaces.
Synthetic motor oil (regular motor oil is fine except against hard freezing)
* All moving gun parts, if grease not available or shooter just prefers oil.
* Cylinder pin of double actions.
* Elevation & windage screws of adjustable sights.
Brownells Dry-Slide (moly disulfide in evaporative medium)
* .22 auto pistols expose to hard freezing
* Handguns exposed to water, followed by hard freeze, where ice on dry steel acts as glue.
* Blowing sand, where wet lub holds dust
Trapr......😂😂😂
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Post by 45MAN on Apr 7, 2021 10:17:48 GMT -5
I MAY HAVE MISUNDERSTOOD THE ORIGINAL QUESTION, BUT I TOOK THE QUESTION TO ASK WHAT TO PUT ON THE FRONT AND REAR BEARING SURFACES OF A CYLINDER TO PROTECT AGAINST THE ADVERSE EFFECTS OF HEAVY RECOIL, I DID NOT UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION TO BE A GENERAL QUESTION ABOUT REVOLVER LUBRICANTS, SO MY INITIAL POST WAS IN RESPONSE TO THE FORMER, NOT THE LATTER.
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Post by webber on Apr 7, 2021 10:59:00 GMT -5
I MAY HAVE MISUNDERSTOOD THE ORIGINAL QUESTION, BUT I TOOK THE QUESTION TO ASK WHAT TO PUT ON THE FRONT AND REAR BEARING SURFACES OF A CYLINDER TO PROTECT AGAINST THE ADVERSE EFFECTS OF HEAVY RECOIL, I DID NOT UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION TO BE A GENERAL QUESTION ABOUT REVOLVER LUBRICANTS, SO MY INITIAL POST WAS IN RESPONSE TO THE FORMER, NOT THE LATTER. You understood correctly. |
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Post by webber on Apr 7, 2021 15:25:39 GMT -5
Thanks for ALL the replies. They are helpful.
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rhino
.30 Stingray
Posts: 191
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Post by rhino on Apr 7, 2021 19:00:38 GMT -5
David doesn’t know doodelysquat, this is what you should use......... Anti-Seize Compound * Ratchet (rear hub) on stainless steel single and double actions. * Base pin on stainless single actions. * Ratchet and base pin on blued steel single actions exposed to high volume fire. (Lubing ratchet & base pin also lubes front cylinder hub.) Moly disulfide grease * Lockwork of single and double action revolvers. * Ratchet and base pin of blued single actions. * Springs weit wear surfaces. Synthetic motor oil (regular motor oil is fine except against hard freezing) * All moving gun parts, if grease not available or shooter just prefers oil. * Cylinder pin of double actions. * Elevation & windage screws of adjustable sights. Brownells Dry-Slide (moly disulfide in evaporative medium) * .22 auto pistols expose to hard freezing * Handguns exposed to water, followed by hard freeze, where ice on dry steel acts as glue. * Blowing sand, where wet lub holds dust Trapr......😂😂😂 None of these guys know doodelysquat.......just have a plate of bacon and smear some bacon grease on it. 😂 |
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Post by leftysixgun on Apr 7, 2021 21:16:01 GMT -5
David doesn’t know doodelysquat, this is what you should use......... Anti-Seize Compound * Ratchet (rear hub) on stainless steel single and double actions. * Base pin on stainless single actions. * Ratchet and base pin on blued steel single actions exposed to high volume fire. (Lubing ratchet & base pin also lubes front cylinder hub.) Moly disulfide grease * Lockwork of single and double action revolvers. * Ratchet and base pin of blued single actions. * Springs weit wear surfaces. Synthetic motor oil (regular motor oil is fine except against hard freezing) * All moving gun parts, if grease not available or shooter just prefers oil. * Cylinder pin of double actions. * Elevation & windage screws of adjustable sights. Brownells Dry-Slide (moly disulfide in evaporative medium) * .22 auto pistols expose to hard freezing * Handguns exposed to water, followed by hard freeze, where ice on dry steel acts as glue. * Blowing sand, where wet lub holds dust Trapr......😂😂😂 None of these guys know doodelysquat.......just have a plate of bacon and smear some bacon grease on it. 😂 Hahaha, best answer yet! And it smells good...... |
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Post by leadhound on Apr 8, 2021 20:26:14 GMT -5
Cleaning it out often is gonna be key, abrasive action is going to cause more wear than the components rubbing against themselves. No lubrication is going to protect a metals structural integrity from peening or wallowing, that is in the alloy and heat treatment. To my limited knowledge, certain if not all anti-seize compounds are of an abrasive nature. Glocks use to come brand spanking new with a smear of copper anti-seize to break in and wear in the action. I assume they still do? Sharp internal parts will wear at each other, making metal shavings, creating undo wear if not cleaned and cleared out.
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