ericp
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Post by ericp on Sept 18, 2015 15:50:32 GMT -5
I tried out the Miha HP mold this morning before work, you can really empty the lead pot in a hurry with that thing. Casts beautifully to boot! Really nice piece of equipment.
Eric
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Post by 2 Dogs on Sept 18, 2015 16:32:54 GMT -5
We keep telling guys that....
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gman50
.30 Stingray
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Post by gman50 on Sept 18, 2015 19:25:41 GMT -5
Received mine today. Looking forward to casting with it. Beautiful craftsmanship! This is my first MP mold as well as my first brass mold. I know I know..... won't be the last!
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gjn
.30 Stingray
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Post by gjn on Sept 18, 2015 19:49:18 GMT -5
Is there anything you guys do to prep these molds when you receive them or after you start using them? Thanks!
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Post by dougader on Sept 18, 2015 20:34:29 GMT -5
I was going to ask the same thing. I've only ever used Lee moulds before. Anything special about brass moulds from MP?
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Fowler
.401 Bobcat
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Post by Fowler on Sept 18, 2015 21:43:21 GMT -5
I degrease my molds with dish soap and some Qtips and then set them on a warm burner on the stove to dry. That's it for me, it then take 10 fills once they are warm to get good bullets from the molds. I have found my copy of this mold is a bit picky about how I pour the lead in it to get good bullets, it likes a slow pour and good pool of lead left on the sprew plate. Your mileage may vary.
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Post by zeus on Sept 18, 2015 22:37:48 GMT -5
I started new runs today for the Cramer version of the H&G 503 for the 44 and the 270 SAA bullet for the 45 with Cramer pins. Two great molds. I'll post pics of earlier run molds when I have some time tomorrow.
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Post by sixshot on Sept 19, 2015 0:32:19 GMT -5
I like to take a new mould & heat it up on the hot plate fairly hot, then let it cool down to kind of condition the mould. Then I heat it back up & start casting. With the Miha moulds they are very close tolerance & many casters will tell you they get litle fins on the bullets when they first start casting. Thats because the moulds are tight & the alignment pins are quite snug. What I do after ever cast for about 50-60 casts is, I close the blocks & rap the hinge pin with my mallet while holding the handles tight, this gives me a good seating of the blocks. Then I wait a few seconds to allow the sprue to cool, knock the sprue off, gently close the blocks, rap the hinge pin again to get the blocks seated & pour my alloy again. After you've done this for 3-4 dozen bullets you're usually good to go. If you are still seeing the little fins on the bullets then you'll have to keep rapping that hinge pin a while longer. These moulds are very precise as you will see. Adding some of Miha's oil that he supplies every other casting session is a good idea. Put it right where he tells you, on the alignment pins & the spue pin & try not to get any in the mould cavity or you'll end up with wrinkled bullets for 10-15 casts til the heat gets past the oil. From time to time check to make sure your pins that screw into the hollow points are tight, do this before you start casting, if you do it when the blocks are hot you can easily break a pin off in the hollow point. But you must check them because they can come loose from rapping the hinge pin & then they will break off.
Dick
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aciera
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Post by aciera on Sept 19, 2015 1:12:41 GMT -5
Wish I'd gotten in on this buy. Anyone ever try aluminum GC made out of pop cans? I think I made a die to make one years ago that you just added to a plain base and then ran it thru the sizing die. Don't laugh. About 20 years ago. Working for a pistol smith and I think he still has it. He wanted one so I just built the die. It worked and I went on to something else. This thread just jogged my memory. Don't mean to derail.
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gjn
.30 Stingray
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Post by gjn on Sept 19, 2015 6:52:00 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice. Have been using LBT molds but joined the group buy on this and two of the 32 molds. Anxious to try casting and shooting some cast HP's for the first time.
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Post by zeus on Sept 19, 2015 7:25:30 GMT -5
Wish I'd gotten in on this buy. Anyone ever try aluminum GC made out of pop cans? I think I made a die to make one years ago that you just added to a plain base and then ran it thru the sizing die. Don't laugh. About 20 years ago. Working for a pistol smith and I think he still has it. He wanted one so I just built the die. It worked and I went on to something else. This thread just jogged my memory. Don't mean to derail. We are Currently doing another for the 475 mold if you want one still.
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aciera
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Post by aciera on Sept 19, 2015 15:42:15 GMT -5
Wish I'd gotten in on this buy. Anyone ever try aluminum GC made out of pop cans? I think I made a die to make one years ago that you just added to a plain base and then ran it thru the sizing die. Don't laugh. About 20 years ago. Working for a pistol smith and I think he still has it. He wanted one so I just built the die. It worked and I went on to something else. This thread just jogged my memory. Don't mean to derail. We are Currently doing another for the 475 mold if you want one still. Do I look here or at Castboolits. I'm old. I don't search very well. Lol
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ericp
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Post by ericp on Sept 19, 2015 15:50:01 GMT -5
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Post by Markbo on Sept 21, 2015 11:13:26 GMT -5
Aaaaand to answer your question about GCs - yes, I have done that. I use aluminum I got in a roll at the foofing supply though. Just a tad thicker than soda cans, but still easy to cut into strips. I use Pat Marlins die - he is on Castboolits.com as well. FYI he is currently working on a die design for this specific mold/boolit. If I ever need GCs - and I may very well never get velocity that high - I will probably use his die. Hmmm... I do have a .475L that will get that high though... hmmmmmm. ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
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jsh
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Post by jsh on Sept 21, 2015 16:43:49 GMT -5
Hot dang it is like Christmas! Got my mold today. The 45-270-SAA mold I got was used, but it still looked good. I should have bought two of the 477-640 molds. One to use and the other to display. Almost like jewelry. Thanks for your efforts on this Glenn. Jeff
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