Rebarrel cost?

[ward01]

Generally speaking, what does it cost to have a new barrel installed? I'm thinking of trying to get my stainless Ruger NM 5.5" Bisley 45 convertible to shoot a little better.

My 4 5/8" NMBH blued has given me groups at 50 yards just a little under 3". This Bisley ain't close and it won't quit leading even with fire lapping.

Suppose it would need a new front sight as well, any particular front sight to recommend?

Any other items to specifically address? Like forcing cone or crown or such?

I've not done this on a revolver before.

thanks for help

[jiminyt]

Have you thought about sending back to ruger?

They do good work. I had a problem with the barrel-to-cylinder gap on one of the NM 44 spl and they took care of me. They make it really easy, they'll send you a call tag.

[blacktailslayer]

Check the cylinder throats first! If they are undersize a new barrel isn't gonna help one lick. It would be a shame to install a nice shiney new barrel and have it lead-up just as bad.

Firelapping with undersize throats won't solve anything either. Proper throats first, firelapping (if necessary) is second.

2Dogs has a great article over on GunBlast that he did a while back that will get ya all fixed-up. I am not sure how to post a link to it here so maybe someone else can do that.

Don D.

[ward01]

Should have mentioned it, throats were done earlier by cylindersmith - all are 452. Over a hundred rounds of fire lapping through it too - after the throats were done.

[boxhead]

Go to Jim Stroh's website and you will find pricing for very high quality work.

[blacktailslayer]

You sound like a knowledgable shooter, if it were me my next step would be to check the bullet hardness and poweder charge to rule-out molten lead following the slug out the barrel. Trying a harder alloy or a gas check may do the trick.

If you have already been down the path than maybe a new barrel is in order. Good Luck!

Don D.

[ward01]

With a cuttter from Brownells, I recut the forcing cone and took it out to the range yesterday. I fired 12 rounds and it was still leading with my standard load of .452 280 gr SWC Leadhead over 13/HS6 but the leading was STARTING further into the barrel rather than right at the forcing cone. That seems to suggest more firelapping is in order??

Then without cleaning the lead out, I then ran five rounds of RCBS 315 gr Gas Check over 22.5/H110 and not only was the barrel clean as a whistle but I had 4 rounds into a quarter sized hole with one out a bit at 25 yards.

I then tried the whole thing over again and got the same results. I find this encouraging.

ward

[Markbo]

I believe I'd be staying with that 2nd load all the time!

[paul105]

Apr 22, 2013 14:47:22 GMT -5 ward01 said:

Then without cleaning the lead out, I then ran five rounds of RCBS 315 gr Gas Check over 22.5/H110 and not only was the barrel clean as a whistle but I had 4 rounds into a quarter sized hole with one out a bit at 25 yards.

I then tried the whole thing over again and got the same results. I find this encouraging.

ward

Quite some time ago, Lloyd Smale put me on to the The RCBS 315gr SWCGC. Over the appropriate charge of H110, it has proven to be the least finicky and one of the most consistently accurate bullets I've used in all three of my .45s.

FWIW,

Paul

[ward01]

I am going to try some fire lapping as I go with this gun. I mean I will load up 50 rounds for fire lapping along with some of the 315 gr RCBS/H110 and go out and shoot and have some fun. And then do it again next trip to the range until just maybe I can get this Bisley to shape up and quit the leading at the lower velocities.

ward

[Squatch]

In my very limited knowledge, you may need more fire lapping. Talking Marshal at Beartooth Bullets regarding my fathers 5.5" stainless bisely. It ended up having about .0013 constriction and Marshal estimated it would take about 150-175 rounds to fire lap it out. The stainless on the Ruger's is just so much harder than the standard steel barrels. Let us know how it goes.

[ward01]

I have been using Beartooth's 320 grit for a number of years on various guns. I ordered some 240 grit from Brownells and thought I'd try a bit in this Ruger - it might go just a bit faster. I usually shoot a number of lapping loads and then clean and try some regular ammo and check for results.

ward

[bradshaw]

Ward.... limited to scant info provided, suggest you slug barrel. There may still be constriction from compression ring formed by over-tightened barrel. Or, bore & groove dimensions may exhibit a bit of waviness. Suggestions to patiently continue fire lapping are sound. After you slug bore with an egg sinker or similar gob of soft lead, lightly lube bore. Then index the now-rifled slug to the rifling at the muzzle and carefully push it through again. This time you get a better feel of the bore and any restrictions.

You did not describe the forcing cone. It nay have been fine. Or not----which usually means excessively deep, or rough, or off axis.

Doubt cleaning up the crown contributed anything.

Now for your HS-6 load. Charge seems high, which increases heat and shock to the bullet----not a blueprint for accuracy. Mid range powder is for mid range velocity.
David Bradshaw

[ward01]

Over the weekend I got out and ran about 60 firelapping loads through the Bisley. I used some fairly soft 260 gr RNFP .452 dia over 5 gr Trail Boss. I used the 240 grit abrasive and tried to roll them quite a while so you could feel the grit imbedded in the lead. Then a gentle wipe with a paper towel and push them in the unsized case. Fired 12 shots and pull the cylinder and clean and check - never had any signs of lead visible in the barrel.

I also fired a number of the 315 GC over 22.5 H110 and was very happy with this bullet. If I do my part they seem to want to all go through the same hole at 25 yards.

Also shot some of the Leadhead SWC 13/HS6 and got noticable leading.

This morning I found a few .490 soft lead round balls from the muzzle loader and slugged the barrel. Applied a little grease in the barrel and tapped a ball into the muzzle with my plastic hammer. I then made an index mark in the lead before pushing the ball through the barrel. Lead slug came in between .4500 and .4505 on the micrometer depending on how I held it.

I again lightly lubed the barrel and lined up the lead slug and got it started in the muzzle. I took my brass rod and gently pushed the slug down the barrel. It moved freely until it got to the frame where it took just a little extra effort to get it to pass through and drop.

Seems to suggest I need to do so more fire lapping.

My 4 5/8 blued Black Hawk 45 Colt shoots this 280 Leadhead SWC 13/HS6 load very accurately without any leading. Since I had some of these loads on hand, I thought I'd try them here as well. Perhaps I'll try a lighter load of HS6 - say 11 grains?? Or maybe switch to the suggested 231 load with 255 gr with a deep seated bullet for a fun load.

ward

[was1911]

Apr 17, 2013 13:09:14 GMT -5 ward01 said:

Generally speaking, what does it cost to have a new barrel installed? I'm thinking of trying to get my stainless Ruger NM 5.5" Bisley 45 convertible to shoot a little better.

My 4 5/8" NMBH blued has given me groups at 50 yards just a little under 3". This Bisley ain't close and it won't quit leading even with fire lapping.

Suppose it would need a new front sight as well, any particular front sight to recommend?

Any other items to specifically address? Like forcing cone or crown or such?

I've not done this on a revolver before.

thanks for help

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