dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Apr 2, 2017 14:13:58 GMT -5
I tend to jump in with both feet on every project (I think there is a psychological term for it) and focus on that project for a considerable time (and money). At first I just wanted my large frame 5.5" Bisquero 45 Colt to be what I wanted it to be, then a 4 5/8" 357 Magnum Blackhawk showed up, a 4 5/8" Super Blackhawk showed up, and somebody had a Williams 45 Colt Bisley for sale all in a 4 month period. I now believe I need a Bisley Hunter in 44 Magnum after seeing the one that had the JRH grip mod a few threads below. Next, I accidentally found Accurate Molds website. Well everybody knows you need at least 2 molds per caliber. 3 per caliber minimum, if they are over 44 caliber. Oh, and you need at least 1 gas check mold per caliber over 44 too. I happened to find 6 full 6 gallon buckets of COWW at my local tire store cheap, so now my back stays sore for some reason. I don't know if you know this, but all Blackhawk's need custom grips by Huntington and/or Scott Kolar before they shoot well (at least mine do). Belt Mountain may as well have an online shopping cart so I don't have to mail order forms anymore. Midway and Brownells already received their monthly payments so that wasn't unexpected, but all of the Smokes Powder was new to me, but no worries, I bought plenty. Now Mr Clements is about to get 2 of these revolvers because I explained to my lovely wife they weren't quite right until I got some work done and it's easier to go ahead and send 2 at the same time to save on shipping (I'm not sure she believes me for some reason). There is a better than 98.7% chance that when JRH sends my 44 Mag Blackhawk frame back with some new wood attached, the 357 Mag Blackhawk will head off to Sparks too. And Scott Kolar has some funny looking wood called Mesquite Burl that is going to go on both Bisley frames. So again, thanks to the Enablers here for posting your d@€€ pictures for me to look at. Thank goodness I don't have any intention of going above 45 Colt. YET. Whine over
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Apr 2, 2017 13:38:20 GMT -5
Nothing special for me, only initials. Some boards I use my name.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Mar 16, 2017 11:26:49 GMT -5
I assumed it was a bolt bearing block (it just about had to be) but I haven't seen it having been secured externally before. I personally don't think I detracts from the looks in the least. I know what it does and can see how it helps with the heavy calibers, but is it necessary for lighter recoiling calibers? I tend to over engineer things because I only want to send a gun off once.
Sorry for the off topic question, but I don't think it detracts from the fine revolver being discussed.
Thanks,
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Mar 16, 2017 7:38:35 GMT -5
The 3rd screw on the left is for a cylinder latch block of some sort? The more I look at custom Ruger BH's, the more I like big long cylinders that fill the frame window. Subtle, but like a set of fitted grips, finishes the look of a fine revolver.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Feb 18, 2017 7:34:17 GMT -5
It's not slipping off of the loading gate detent that I can tell, but that does give me somewhere to look because I am at a loss.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Feb 17, 2017 16:49:49 GMT -5
A friend brought over his single ten so I could install a set of Wolff Springs. He had mentioned slight binding to the cylinder while having the loading gate open. I noticed the same thing but didn't give it any thought at the time (figured some of the internals were rough). I disassembled it to polish any rough spots (1000 grit wet/dry) as I have done to all of my Blackhawk's. The pawl was in good shape on the top so the only thing I did to it was smooth the backside where the pawl plunger sits as it had a really rough surface there.
After reassembly, it will cock, but when I open the loading gate, the cylinder is bound up. After I get the cylinder lock lined up in a slot, I can close the gate and I can cock the hammer again. If I don't open the loading gate, the revolver runs as it should, except you can't load any cartridges.......
I've disassembled this thing a half dozen times and I still have the same issue. While disassembled, and the pawl plunger isn't in the hole, the cylinder will spin. I've looked at the pawl under a magnifying glass and there are't any burrs on it at all and the slot it rides in is smooth and clear of any burrs. I replaced the pawl plunger and spring in case that might have been a problem. The base pin doesn't have any roughness to it's surface. The ratchets on the back of the cylinder look good to my eye with no obvious burrs.
I notice where he had let the hammer/firing pin fall on the edge of a chamber, but there isn't any issues of putting a round in that chamber and no metal is displaced that might cause the problem I'm having.
The revolver is a few months old and has been shot a few hundred times. I've got 4 Blackhawk's of different calibers, and have changed springs in all of them and have smoothed all of their internals (to include installing free spin pawl in all of them). I have never messed with a Single Ten before and this issue has brought me to a stand still. I'm not an expert here, obviously, but I have never had an issue with disassembly, reassembly, and changing out parts.
It may need to visit Ruger, but I'm just checking with some of you that have experience with this particular revolver.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Feb 2, 2017 13:41:10 GMT -5
Where do you source the lead? What's a good leaf melting pot run? Not sure if I'm gonna do this or not, but I'll admit it probably is easier to source lead and make my own then wait for Cast Performance bullets to come back in stock. I suspect many have suggested this to you already, but casting your own really makes shooting certain guns, especially revolvers, easier. I also suspect you already are well aware of the many benefits of "making" your own: matching bullet size to throats/chamber, hardness/alloy, lube/powder coat, and last I'll mention here but not least is bullet shape/design. I have nothing against commercial cast, but I love being able to choose exactly what I want. You mentioned Cast Performance bullets, so I bet you buy some sort of LFN/WFN bullets. Well then, go to Accurate Molds and enjoy the many molds of that type available. I started casting many years ago because I could not buy the type of bullets needed (heavy BPCTR bullets of certain alloys and lubes) and have never regretted it. I find casting handgun bullets different than my big bullets, but it sure is nice having those multiple cavity molds dropping 2-4 bullets each time the sprue cools. There's that and no waiting on the mailman or Santa Claus in a brown truck to bring me bullets. Jump on in, the molten lead is fine......
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Jan 31, 2017 13:27:32 GMT -5
Boy that water "bath" ought to set those bullets right away! It do. I've never water quenched as I don't need them to hard, but I really appreciate your proper use of the southern language. I was under the impression that only us southern South Carolinians (possibly a few in Georgia also) spoke it. Heck, finding other true speaker's makes me happy enough to fire up the old lead pot.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Jan 28, 2017 12:30:00 GMT -5
Nice new toy.
I wonder if you would give me the winning lottery numbers for the week you shot that target. See, I really need more money so I can send a couple of BH's to JRH for some expensive work.
Just teasing (unless you really have the winning numbers and then I'm serious)....
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Jan 17, 2017 19:23:45 GMT -5
I had Doug ream the cylinder on my 357 Magnum Blackhawk. I can't say it is more accurate because of the work, as I didn't shoot it much before, but it is a baby doll now. The chambers and throats are smooth with no tool marks verified by a Hawkeye. I'll do it again in a minute.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 31, 2016 21:11:40 GMT -5
I like a bead-blast finish on stainless field guns. Leave the trigger, hammer, ejector rod & screws bright. Sorry for the Hijack, but who did the grips and front sight? JRH? Thanks,
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 18, 2016 20:25:11 GMT -5
That revolver is definitely different. I also like some different handguns (1918 Remington model 51 32 ACP for one among many), but that bad boy is not "understated" at all.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 1, 2016 8:07:43 GMT -5
Shoot me your address and I will send you a set of Colt eagle grips that are taking up space in the parts box. Robb I note that many jokingly call others here enablers, but I also notice there are many that will give freely of their time and stuff to folks they may not even know personally. I beginning to recognize some of the forum "handles" and I want to say this is a very nice gesture right here. Enablers or not, these handguns will last our lives and will usually go to our children. I sure hope I don't catch the Colt bug, as the Ruger flu is costing me enough already!
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Sept 29, 2016 20:00:58 GMT -5
The thing kind of reminds me of a Hayabusa I had some years back. Second gear would get you a ride to the county jail. That revolver might be too much fun in a small package.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Sept 29, 2016 18:49:17 GMT -5
You cut the ratchet the same way. The only difference is the space between the standing breech and rear face of the cylinder is less. Usually by the amount of case head you're attempting to recess; say 0.060". It nets a ratchet that's 0.060" shorter, but the fundamental geometry is unchanged. Hope this helps. -Lee www.singleactions.com"Chasing perfection five shots at a time" It does help. I knew the case heads were recessed, but there still isn't much room there. Obviously the rachet is more than strong enough after it is shortened. I've been reading many pages back, and saw where the FA revolvers can peen the cylinder with the firing pin if they aren't operated properly. I suspect the firing pin is close on the big cylinder Ruger's too. Thanks,
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