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Post by desertrat on Sept 26, 2014 10:39:20 GMT -5
Anyone have a suggestion for a lighter trigger spring for a NM Blackhawk? I am not a cowboy action guy, but I do shoot silhouette. Last few times out, I felt that I could do a little better if the trigger was a little lighter. Also maybe considering the hammer spring as well. Just for a little easier time in preparing for the next shot. Have looked at Brownells, Wolff, etc...just not sure what to get.
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
Posts: 1,943
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Post by cmillard on Sept 26, 2014 10:58:19 GMT -5
go to midway usa or brownells. get the wolff reduced (30 ounce) trigger spring. well worth it!
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Post by squawberryman on Sept 26, 2014 11:08:15 GMT -5
Pull a leg off. Half the weight, no money spent
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Post by medicdave on Sept 26, 2014 11:44:34 GMT -5
There's info somewhere on bending the stock spring to change the angle it meets the trigger and lightens the legs. Does make it feel lighter and crisper. Edit googles my friend lol. www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html
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Post by desertrat on Sept 26, 2014 15:19:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the info....I will have a look...I hear Wolff is a top brand.
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Post by maxcactus on Sept 27, 2014 18:46:33 GMT -5
I have used Wolff replacement springs in all my revolvers and autos for > 20 years. Top notch all the way. That said, try the aforementioned technique of removing one leg of the trigger spring first or try the cylindersmith technique of putting a small bend in both legs. Worst case scenario you end up buying a $7 replacement spring.
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Paden
.375 Atomic
Lower Goldstream Creek
Posts: 1,132
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Post by Paden on Sept 27, 2014 21:45:23 GMT -5
This works very well and I too would recommend it. I've tried lighter weight springs, but I prefer the mod to the original spring.
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Post by nolongcolt on Sept 27, 2014 23:00:33 GMT -5
I have used Wolff replacement springs in all my revolvers and autos for > 20 years. Top notch all the way. That said, try the aforementioned technique of removing one leg of the trigger spring first or try the cylindersmith technique of putting a small bend in both legs. Worst case scenario you end up buying a $7 replacement spring. Been using Wolff springs for years, mostly for rifles though. Recently I emailed them and asked the techies about a extra power striker spring for a commercial Mark X Mauser 98 as I was getting some light strikes. They responded that they could not help me at this time! What?!?!?!?! Told my FFL guy/gunsmith and he said just order a mil Mauser spring so I did, fit my sporter just fine and no more light strikes. I cannot believe the tech guy didn't know this, and didn't ask someone else before just blowing me off.
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Post by tek4260 on Sept 27, 2014 23:17:22 GMT -5
Search the forums for some of these springs
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Post by squawberryman on Sept 29, 2014 16:01:01 GMT -5
Bullseye springs=hens' teeth
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 29, 2014 17:34:40 GMT -5
Whether a bent or clipped factory trigger spring, or a light aftermarket replacement, imperative spring reset trigger upon release. Sometimes, roughness on full cock dog of hammer becomes more apparent with lighter trigger spring. Take-up of many factory Ruger triggers is smooth, wherein the light spring results in noticeable smooth take-up. Nothing wrong with smooth take-up----a.k.a. "creep"----especially on a gun used for holster work.
To conserve accuracy, do not lighten hammer spring. David Bradshaw
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Post by tek4260 on Sept 29, 2014 21:46:17 GMT -5
Bullseye springs=hens' teeth Yep, they seem to be that way nowadays. I finally found enough for all my NM shooters. They all have the 26# hammer springs as well, even the 22's.
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aciera
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,079
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Post by aciera on Oct 2, 2014 22:43:14 GMT -5
Whether a bent or clipped factory trigger spring, or a light aftermarket replacement, imperative spring reset trigger upon release. Sometimes, roughness on full cock dog of hammer becomes more apparent with lighter trigger spring. Take-up of many factory Ruger triggers is smooth, wherein the light spring results in noticeable smooth take-up. Nothing wrong with smooth take-up----a.k.a. "creep"----especially on a gun used for holster work. To conserve accuracy, do not lighten hammer spring. David Bradshaw What he said.........
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Post by frankenfab on Oct 2, 2014 23:40:06 GMT -5
Well, I don't know crap, but I was thinking exactly what Mr. Bradshaw posted as well. Not to discount the cool factor of the " bullseye" spring , which I had never heard of.
Thanks for the cool pics, tek4260.
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Post by tek4260 on Oct 3, 2014 8:44:08 GMT -5
Just remember that the weight of the spring is determined by the diameter of the wire. Bending, clipping, ect only reduces the preload and the springs ability to reset. By the time you bend a factory spring enough to get a light trigger, by my standards, it may fail to reset the trigger(pull the transfer bar free of being pinched between the hammer and frame).
A good way to look at it is the way Remington triggers are nowadays. To pass the mandated drop test, they increased the diameter of the wire in the trigger spring. So now, if you adjust a Remington trigger down enough to get a good trigger, it is in effect only taking up the space between the trigger and sear, with no preload. Then you get the problem of the sear tripping when the bolt is closed or when it is taken off safe and put on fire. The only way to get them "right" is to respring them with a smaller diameter wire spring where you can have preload and a light trigger.
Most define my triggers as "scary light", but safety rests between the ears and not in some lawyered up garbage. Besides it is a single action and it will not fire unless you cock the hammer and press the trigger.
If you fool around trying to make a true light trigger with the factory spring, you can get there, but I wouldn't trust it to fully set the trigger into the sear notch every time.
Another trick to consider if you want a good trigger is to thin the width of the sear engagement and not rely solely on reducing the depth of engagement.
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