shorty500
.327 Meteor
too many dirty harry movies created me!
Posts: 912
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Post by shorty500 on Oct 3, 2014 11:31:24 GMT -5
Just remember that the weight of the spring is determined by the diameter of the wire. Bending, clipping, ect only reduces the preload and the springs ability to reset. By the time you bend a factory spring enough to get a light trigger, by my standards, it may fail to reset the trigger(pull the transfer bar free of being pinched between the hammer and frame). A good way to look at it is the way Remington triggers are nowadays. To pass the mandated drop test, they increased the diameter of the wire in the trigger spring. So now, if you adjust a Remington trigger down enough to get a good trigger, it is in effect only taking up the space between the trigger and sear, with no preload. Then you get the problem of the sear tripping when the bolt is closed or when it is taken off safe and put on fire. The only way to get them "right" is to respring them with a smaller diameter wire spring where you can have preload and a light trigger. Most define my triggers as "scary light", but safety rests between the ears and not in some lawyered up garbage. Besides it is a single action and it will not fire unless you cock the hammer and press the trigger. If you fool around trying to make a true light trigger with the factory spring, you can get there, but I wouldn't trust it to fully set the trigger into the sear notch every time. Another trick to consider if you want a good trigger is to thin the width of the sear engagement and not rely solely on reducing the depth of engagement. Amen to your thoughts on safety! to many in our lawyer infested . legal suit world forget that safety begins between the ears!
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Paden
.375 Atomic
Lower Goldstream Creek
Posts: 1,132
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Post by Paden on Oct 7, 2014 1:14:54 GMT -5
Just remember that the weight of the spring is determined by the diameter of the wire. Bending, clipping, ect only reduces the preload and the springs ability to reset. By the time you bend a factory spring enough to get a light trigger, by my standards, it may fail to reset the trigger(pull the transfer bar free of being pinched between the hammer and frame). A good way to look at it is the way Remington triggers are nowadays. To pass the mandated drop test, they increased the diameter of the wire in the trigger spring. So now, if you adjust a Remington trigger down enough to get a good trigger, it is in effect only taking up the space between the trigger and sear, with no preload. Then you get the problem of the sear tripping when the bolt is closed or when it is taken off safe and put on fire. The only way to get them "right" is to respring them with a smaller diameter wire spring where you can have preload and a light trigger. Most define my triggers as "scary light", but safety rests between the ears and not in some lawyered up garbage. Besides it is a single action and it will not fire unless you cock the hammer and press the trigger. If you fool around trying to make a true light trigger with the factory spring, you can get there, but I wouldn't trust it to fully set the trigger into the sear notch every time. Another trick to consider if you want a good trigger is to thin the width of the sear engagement and not rely solely on reducing the depth of engagement. What I like about the cylindersmith modification is that it reduces the bearing surface contact between the spring and trigger cam. In my gun this seems to have dramatically reduced the amount felt resistance and creep as the trigger is moved rearward, without significantly reducing the reset weight of the spring. (I also polished the surface of the cam upon which the spring bears, and that made a very significant difference in felt creep). For whatever reason, in this gun, a lighter spring resulted in a less than 100% reliable trigger reset, and I wasn't necessarily looking for a lighter pull weight so much as a flawlessly smooth and consistent pull, through the full range of the triggers motion. The cylindersmith mod, along with polishing all bearing surfaces (spring cam, sear, and dog) allowed me to stay with the factory weight spring, but got me a trigger pull so perfectly smooth I'm virtually unable to perceive the take up travel, without reducing the depth of the sear engagement.
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Post by cheap870 on Oct 15, 2014 18:25:59 GMT -5
I order my springs directly from Wolff. I will tell you that to light of a trigger spring & the trigger might have a hard time resetting.
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Post by mohillbilly on Dec 19, 2014 5:29:55 GMT -5
I have a way to use the stock spring with out modification . It is similar to the poor boy take a leg off . Instead I use a suitable size piece of copper wire , and wrapping one peg tight , letting both legs of the spring down , bring the wires loose end thru the hole in the grip frame , and pull up and do a wrap around the other peg . Both spring legs will be captured in the wire big loop . tighten or loosening loop bigger/smaller to adjust the spring pressure until it is just right , and still return/reset.
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