Ruger 357 Maximum

[fanofthefortyone]

I bought one and need some info. I need a pair of grips and the complete rear sight assembly. Assuming the super Blackhawk grips will fit. But as for the rear sight,what fits? SBH? 
Thanks,
Ronnie

[steve]

It uses the same as a Blackhawk/SBH/Bisley. It's worth the money for Bowen's rear sight, I really like his target style.

[fanofthefortyone]

Thanks. Nice looking revolver!
Ronnie

[contender]

If you got a Maxi, and it needed those parts, I hope you got a great deal!
PS; Take a moment & go to the Ruger Forum & post the info that Jack is asking for. He's the resident expert on the 357 maxi's. His knowledge of them is wonderful!

[bradshaw]

fanofthefortyone.... perhaps now you become a fan of the .357 Maximum. If your Maximum is built the way we tried to get it, with firm straight chambers and smooth leade, a rather minimal forcing cone, it should handle .38 Special, .357 Magnum and .357 Maximum with gratifying accuracy. While rollmarked a Blackhawk, the revolver is a lengthened frame Super Blackhawk, the difference being the Super Blackhawk grip frame with Dragoon trigger guard. The chambers are straight, not tapered, to properly handle rather exorbitant pressure potential. I believe this feature also contributes to the revolver's ability to print with .38 Spl. and .357 mag.

Two forcing cones were used on the Maximum, a 5-degree included angle, and the standard 11-degree included angle. I prefer the 11-degree cone.

IMR and Hodgdon 4227 (short stick powder) are all-time cruising powders for the .357 Maximum, producing plenty oomph when you want it. Win 296/H110 (ball powder), along with slightly slower Win 680 and Accurate 1680 ball powders, provide maximum velocity, albeit with faster barrel face abrasion. Hercules 2400 and successor Alliant 2400 (flake powders) are very effective, particularly with medium weight bullets. I mention 2400, as no spiking was experienced during elevated pressure testing, and consider 2400 the fastest applicable propellant. Don't make it your first choice. Avoid any faster powder, such as Blue Dot, or any powder that peaks while appreciable air space remains in case.
David Bradshaw

[whitworth]

Listen to David Bradshaw. He actually took part in the development of the .357 Maximum. I don't think anyone is better acquainted with the cartridge/revolver combo.

[shorty500]

yup, use the Maximum as it should be- meaning HEAVY slugs and slow powder and you will fall in love. Had shot a Wesson years ago and just never was a fan of less than .40 calibers UNTIL few years ago i found a sweet deal on great Ruger with 10-1/2 barrel. Now have added 10 and 14 Contender barrels. Mine thrive on a 190 gc TC from NEI mold and huge doses of H4227

[coogs]

Thanks, contender. Listen to what bradshaw has to say. Though I may know, maybe, and that is a very humble statement, to say the least, about the development of the firearm and I may own a "few" of them, David may very well have forgotten more about the cartridge itself than I may ever know! I shoot a 10 1/2 Max a lot, I load a 200 210 gr. cast bullet, 4227 powder, can't remember the load right know, not top velocity for sure. Great cartridge, great gun. Will give you lots of pleasure if you load it as described above. Stay with heavy bullets and slow burning powders, and you will get a lifetime of pleasure out of it, Coogs.

[jsh]

While there are so many gurus here on the max I will bend an ear or two. After the last two wheel guns I have bought, both Rugers. I am getting out of the sw business. Have my old 29 10 5/8 that is going. Have not shot it in at least 10 years. I would say it should put me in a 357 max?
I have read here that the top strap cutting ocures then gets no worse?
How much is too much? Or what is normal?
Are there things I need to look for on theses? Or questions that need to be asked specific to these guns?
If it won't shoot cast I am not gonna be happy camper. When folks speak of shooting heavy bullets, what is considered heavy? 170-204 grain bullet?
What twist are these barrels? I would take it they are proper for heavy projectiles?
Powder seems to be a no brainer 2400 and look no further?
I had a tc factory barrel and did a chamber cast. I never shot it as I would have needed a 300+ grain bullet to even come close to the throat if you wanted to call it that. I do have brass a plenty and redding dies along with a taper crimp die.
Fill me in if I missed anything.
Jeff

[coogs]

Jsh, I'm sure David will add much more, and much more in depth than my answers here. Top strap cutting does occur, and actually seems to stop after about 1000 to 2000 rds. I have seen some smiths with deeper grooves than what will end up on your Max.Personally I shoot 180, 200 and 210 cast bullets. I prefer the 200. I'm loading 4227, can't remember what load right now.If I remember correctly Lee has a pretty decent load with another powder, I have his recipe somewhere but have not tried it yet. I still see them, once in a blue moon, starting @ $600.00 for a decent used one. Usually they seem to be around the $795.00 mark, +/-. If I were buying a shooter, and found a used one, and the seller was the shooter of the gun, see what loads he was using. Fast burning powders and lite weight bullets pushed @ high FPS ate up the forcing cones. Ruger originally had a 6 or 7 degree cone and then went to 11 degree. Its hard to say though how many 11 degree guns actually got out of the factory. Believe it or not, Ruger DESTROYED almost 5000 completed Maxis. Hope this helps. Coogs.

[whitworth]

Dec 12, 2013 19:09:51 GMT -5 coogs said:

Thanks, contender. Listen to what bradshaw has to say. Though I may know, maybe, and that is a very humble statement, to say the least, about the development of the firearm and I may own a "few" of them, David may very well have forgotten more about the cartridge itself than I may ever know! I shoot a 10 1/2 Max a lot, I load a 200 210 gr. cast bullet, 4227 powder, can't remember the load right know, not top velocity for sure. Great cartridge, great gun. Will give you lots of pleasure if you load it as described above. Stay with heavy bullets and slow burning powders, and you will get a lifetime of pleasure out of it, Coogs.

I wasn't suggesting you don't know and hope you didn't read my posting as such! You are a known commodity as a source for .357 Maximum information. I don't think anyone else has compiled the data on these revolvers as you have. For that, I thank you. We are lucky to have you and David Bradshaw here.

[coogs]

Hey Whit, heck no! I didn't even consider any offense there at all, that is until you brought it up! But I still don't! I was just saying that David has probably forgot more about the development of the cartridge than I may ever know. He was pretty much in it from the start, from Elgin Gates to Bill Jr., to Sr. to federal to Remington and so on and so. The SRM itself is more my forte and I thank you for the compliment! Coogs

[contender]

Whit, As I know Coogs,, he wasn't offended at all. If he was,, we'd sic the Radical one upon him!
Seriously, between David, and Jack we have extensive knowledge of the 357 maxi that will not be lost like so many other models. For that, I am grateful to BOTH gentlemen. (Yes Jack, I called you a gentleman!)

[bradshaw]

fanofthefortyone.... a person who asks questions and learns is more interesting than a person who knows everything and doesn't learn. Bill Ruger, Jr., observed the arrest of top strap cutting at barrel/cylinder gap well before the Maximum was put into production. all of the experimental ammunition was hot, hotter than any of my handloads. By volume of fire alone, we were torture testing the prototypes. Dick Casull had covered much of this ground years before, but production of his revolver at Freedom Arms followed the Ruger .357 Maximum. These were to the revolver what the Super Stock Chevy, Plymouth, Dodge, and Ford were to stock cars. To increase performance, you increase displacement, and tune the engine.

180 bullets perform well in a .357 magnum built on a .44 frame. Elongate that frame to add boiler room, and 200 as well as 180 grain bullets take on new life. The 1:16" twist of the Maximum stabilizes 200 grain pistol bullets, but is too slow to stabilize 200 grain spire point rifle bullets. Which shouldn't matter to the hunter.

To load the .357 Maximum two or three grains below full house powder charge dramatically increases brass life and reduces forcing cone erosion, while preserving a stout punch. As an added benefit, some bullets group tighter below full house.

Ruger .357 Maximum barrels were supplied by the George Wilson barrel company in Connecticut, and were button rifled, eight grooves, 1:16 twist. If you encounter fouling from roughness, clean with J-B Paste (very soft, non-embedding abrasive). Your gun may not produce such fouling. The old cast bullet rule applies: slug the bore and size cast bullets .001" over groove diameter. Wilson barrels with a .358" groove are rather common.

Load with small rifle primers only, and do not lighten mainspring.
David Bradshaw

[fanofthefortyone]

Mr Bradshaw, I may well become a fan of the 357 Maximum! This is a new to me caliber and the info you have is most welcome. I plan on ordering a Bowen rear sight,and a set of grips for said Ruger. Is the brass for the Maximum available or should I start shopping for whatever I can find?
Thanks
Ronnie