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Post by AxeHandle on Dec 19, 2012 11:49:08 GMT -5
We ran through this way back when. May have been on the Ruger forum but I know you guys have the information I need.  I remember some being recommended and some NOT being recommended. Seems like there were some NM/OM tricks too.. I've got an OM that needs a little tuning but mostly my efforts will be on NMs. Tell me what I need.  |
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Post by hammerdown77 on Dec 19, 2012 12:06:00 GMT -5
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Aggie01
.375 Atomic
max
Posts: 1,770
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Post by Aggie01 on Dec 19, 2012 17:53:26 GMT -5
A box addressed to Alan Harton is as close as I need to a trigger jig.
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dmize
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,825
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Post by dmize on Dec 19, 2012 20:05:19 GMT -5
Aggie I understand and that would be awesome if I wasnt a mechanic with 27 Rugers.
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Post by mike454 on Dec 20, 2012 20:59:01 GMT -5
Aggie I understand and that would be awesome if I wasnt a mechanic with 27 Rugers. In Bowens SA smithing class starting with a New Model, we did it freehand and double checked it with a square. Seems to work well. |
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Post by bradshaw on Dec 20, 2012 23:28:10 GMT -5
AxeHandle.... the new Model is superior to Peacemaker lockwork in many ways. Confining it to hammer & trigger: The sear tip of the trigger is much stronger. The "dog" of the hammer has a little undercut to eliminate the metal corner of the notch.
I do the work by hand. Primary tools include a medium or fine diamond impregnated steel plate by Eezee Lap, and a white ceramic stone with dead square corners by Spyderco. I believe the white ceramic is made by Coors.
Two things are critical: 1) preserve REGAIN, and 2) do not shorten full cock.
Don't know about jigs.
David Bradshaw
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Post by tek4260 on Dec 21, 2012 6:46:34 GMT -5
AxeHandle.... the new Model is superior to Peacemaker lockwork in many ways. Confining it to hammer & trigger: The sear tip of the trigger is much stronger. The "dog" of the hammer has a little undercut to eliminate the metal corner of the notch. I do the work by hand. Primary tools include a medium or fine diamond impregnated steel plate by Eezee Lap, and a white ceramic stone with dead square corners by Spyderco. I believe the white ceramic is made by Coors. Two things are critical: 1) preserve REGAIN, and 2) do not shorten full cock. Don't know about jigs. David Bradshaw That is exactly what I use as well. Notice it in the bottom right of this picture  |
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Post by 2 Dogs on Dec 22, 2012 7:45:29 GMT -5
Stan, I have plenty of hammers and triggers for NM blackhawks. Let me know what you might need to practice on as I will send you some.
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Post by pbslinger on Dec 22, 2012 19:13:49 GMT -5
I use my 5' Wilton vice for a jig/fixture. I use a couple of 1" square 1/4" thick aluminum blocks I cut off a bar for vice jaws. I clamp the trigger, hammer or sear in left side of the vice between the blocks.
The stone is on the surface to be stoned on the left and angles down to rest on the corner of the jaws on the right. I make a few passes with the stone and view with a loupe. If the angle isn't right I loosen the vice, change the angle and do another test. When I get the angle right I progress to finer stones and lighter pressure. I check with a small machinist square to verify, particularly if the early strokes show factory surface was off.
I put a sheet of paper between the stone and the vice jaw to protect the jaw from wear.
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Post by squawberryman on Dec 27, 2012 16:37:02 GMT -5
If you're one that appreciates good tools as I do, the Power Custom jig is beautiful and functional. That and a Kuhnhausen book make for a good afternoon of learning when it rains. Very repeatable for rugers
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I remember some being recommended and some NOT being recommended. Seems like there were some NM/OM tricks too.. I've got an OM that needs a little tuning but mostly my efforts will be on NMs. Tell me what I need. 
