Fitting a S&W trigger

[Deleted]

I'm replacing the trigger in my 629 MR, and need a little advice. I did my preliminary test-fit last night, and the new trigger wouldn't unlock the bolt stop. This appears to be a simple fix in that the original trigger was chamfered at the front lower edge, and the replacement is square cut in the same spot. Before I take out the files & stones, am I on the right page? It appears that as there is no "timing" for the bolt stop that is controlled by the trigger, but that the bolt stop catch simply needs to roll off the trigger as it is depressed. It appears that a simple chamfering should do the trick. I've done a number of simple trigger jobs on S&W, but this is my first trigger replacement. After this part is done, I'll turn my attention to the other areas of the trigger, which I'm more familiar with. One at a time, of course.

[petep]

Follow this link smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/ and look near the top for 500 Magnum's FAQ's . Page down through his notes and you will see how to do what you are asking about.

[Deleted]

Thanks Pete. It doesn't answer all my questions, but it's a good start.

[axel]

I have fitted a number of S&W bolt stops. In fact I just fit another Power Custom oversize bolt stop yesterday on a 686. Based on the limited information in your post, I would recommend that you stop and reassess before you remove any material from any area.

You stated that the trigger will not unlock the bolt stop. Taken at face value, this means that there is insufficient material available to allow the trigger to pull down on the top of the stop's bevel. Removal of material will just exacerbate that situation. I suggest that you try either another bolt stop or another trigger before you start removing any material from either existing part.

I have fitted several Power Custom oversized stops, and they often require fitting, which in part involves removing some material from the bevel area so as to allow the trigger to smoothly unlock, and then release for drop or relock.

You want to observe the action between these two parts with all other parts except for the bolt stop spring removed. Only after they work properly together should you assemble the rest of the parts.

[Deleted]

Actually, there is too much material in that area. The trigger is thicker in this area, and is cut square, rather than chamfered as needed to allow the stop to roll off the trigger and reset normally. My plan is to duplicate the angles of the original trigger in this area when I get time to sit still and devote the time to the task that it really needs. As I mentioned before, I"ll fit this area first, then move on to the other areas when I'm satisfied that this is done the way it needs to be. One thing at a time...

[axel]

It's you gun and your parts, but I would just remind you that a cylinder catch or bolt if you will is much cheaper and easier to come by than an S&W trigger. I have always removed metal from the point of the bevel in order to allow the trigger toe to pull clear of it allowing drop or return to lockup lockup. Having fit a number of these to good effect, I would never alter the trigger, but rather the catch, which works just as well and can be easily and cheaply replaced if overdone.

Good triggers can be pricey and elusive.

Good luck either way!

[bradshaw]

Don't know about new S&W parts. Old school hammers and triggers are drop forged and case hardened. Unlike the through-hardened Ruger components, you barely touch the S&W part before going through the hard surface into softer steel below.

The old school S&W mechanics worked with bins of parts from which to choose, and timed the revolver without compromising the surface of case-carburized hammers and triggers.

Years ago, Sturm Ruger experimented with powdered metal parts and, according to William Ruger, Senior and Junior, found sintered metal parts "wanting."
David Bradshaw

[Deleted]

Mine NOS stainless. I was going to finish it last night, but company came over and spoiled my plans.

[akray]

The stainless steel-looking triggers and hammers on the 629 revolvers were hard chrome plated, not stainless. The issue of breaking through or otherwise compromising surface hardening applies to these parts just like the standard steel parts. I used to think an action jig, such as the kind Power Custom used to sell for doing action jobs would be a good idea, but there are so many things that can be overdone or done wrong in a revolver action that I never bought one.

[Deleted]

My new trigger is marked "S" from the factory. This is the mark they used to identify stainless steel parts from those that have been plated. It is indeed stainless steel. My 629s original trigger & hammer are chromed.

[bradshaw]

Rereading this post reinforces the accurate info presented.

Usually, when a Smith "stop" fails to unlock, it is due to wear on the stop. Both double and single action fire cause the stop to wear. The remedy is to fit a new stop.

In developing stainless steel revolvers, S&W made stainless hammers and triggers. The engagement surfaces prematurely wore. S&W returned to case hardened carbon parts, flash chromed to impart the stainless look.

Perhaps S&W hammers and triggers are stainless today. I cannot verify. Nevertheless, TIMING and CARRY-UP require knowledgeable fitting.

Note: when cycling the action with the sideplate off, be sure to press hammer against left frame wall, to prevent the hammer walking up the pin and peening the frame where it is cut for the sideplate.
David Bradshaw