Fixing a cracked stock

[warhawk]

I've got two cracked lever gun stocks. Both are cracked at the tang (shipping damage in both cases) and the damage is very similar on both. The crack does not go all the way through and is fairly difficult to spread apart at all.

I would like to use a syringe type injector to get down into the crack without having to open it up any more than necessary. I'm thinking about using Titebond III glue, but am not sure if it is thin enough to inject thru a needle?

Has anyone ever tried this method?

Other options are to try an epoxy like acraglas or Devcon 2, but again I would need to inject it through a needle.

The easiest method would be to use a superglue type product. Titebond makes these in thin, medium and thick viscosities. I think the thin would be fairly easy to get into the cracks, but I wonder how durable it would be?

I'm open to suggestions

This one is the worse of the two, you can see that it's cracked in three places.

[Shakey]

No expert here but, since no one else is stepping forward, I'll give you my thoughts based mostly on gluing up an antique wooden door. Been visitin' with Mr. Daniels a bit so, please excuse if I ramble.

My first inclination would be to go ahead and complete the break and then do a proper glue and clamp job. But, it looks like that would probably split the stock all the way to the butt in several pieces, which is not too good. So, I agree with your decision to fill the crack as completely as possible with a good glue.

I do not believe that "injecting" the glue would be as effective as using a thin glue with a long working time and using various means of coaxing it deep into the cracks. It can be coaxed by "squeegeing" it in one side/end until it comes out the other, by flexing the crack open & closed, and by letting gravity work on it. "Squeegeing" may take a little imigination/experimentation and be a bit messy but is the first step in getting the glue in the crack. Then, give gravity a little time to work.

All of these things have one thing in common ...they are slow which is why the long working time is important.

As for glue, a simple glue such as Elmer's wood glue would probably work but, I'd go with a 24 hr epoxy. Mix up a trial batch and note how long it will creep or flow and how long it takes to begin firming up.

"Coax" the glue into the crack for as long as it is relatively fluid (remember to give gravity time to work) then, clamp the piece, forcing any surplus either deeper into the crack or to the surface. Let cure till the "firm" stage which is when you can easily scrape the excess off the surface. Then, leave it alone until tomorrow.

Since I am a belt & suspenders kind of guy, when I placed the clamps, I would also drill a couple of holes and drive in brass pins.

[tek4260]

Would something like the green Loctite work, on wood? I know it will wick around a front sight on a 1911 that fits flush with the slide and has no apparent gap. Looking at the specs, it is stronger than red Loctite.

For a really strong repair, that doesn't look all that great, I'd spread them and epoxy. Then clamp and drill a pin hole. But instead of a pin I'd use a wood screw that is long enough to go completely through without seating. Something like a 3" screw. Then cut the ends and file them flush with the stock.

[caryc]

The edge of a large feather can also come in handy when trying to get glue into a crack.

[warhawk]

I repaired the less damaged of the two, seems to be plenty strong. You can put a lot of leverage on the place where it was cracked with the stock assembled, so far so good.

I haven't tackled the one in the pics above yet. Been working out of town and busy with other things. I'm pretty confident that I'll get it fixed too, just going to take some time since there are 3 separate cracks that I'm going to fix one at a time.

[nolongcolt]

I know this is way late but curious why you didnt take it up with the shipper first? As to glue, epoxy is usually the best way to go. I worked with wood in the marine trades for many years and we tried many types of glues, Weldwood, resorcinals, epoxies, Gorilla glue.. Epoxy is best and Shakey's method is good, though I personally would try to avoid pins or screws if possible. Sometimes you must you use something, I try to dowel when possible.

[warhawk]

Aug 16, 2012 16:58:55 GMT -5 nolongcolt said:

I know this is way late but curious why you didnt take it up with the shipper first? As to glue, epoxy is usually the best way to go. I worked with wood in the marine trades for many years and we tried many types of glues, Weldwood, resorcinals, epoxies, Gorilla glue.. Epoxy is best and Shakey's method is good, though I personally would try to avoid pins or screws if possible. Sometimes you must you use something, I try to dowel when possible.

I got a settlement from the shipping company on one of the rifles, but money doesn't necessarily replace the straight grip buttstock on a Glenfield 30GT.

On the other rifle, the seller had another stock that he gave me. I guess I'm too much of a tightwad to throw away the cracked stock.