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Post by tek4260 on Aug 11, 2012 12:15:51 GMT -5
Does the trigger "ride" the hammer enough on a New Model to simply file in a half cock notch? I know on OM's the bottom of the hammer is round and contains all the notches, and on a New Model it ends after the sear notch. Just curious before I go welding the face of one of my Super hammers. I don't have one disassembled at the moment to lay the trigger and hammer on the outside to see the relation. Thanks!
Or maybe someone has a pic of a Power Custom hammer next to a stock one to compare the base?
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Post by subsonic on Aug 12, 2012 0:18:35 GMT -5
I don't think you can make it work with a stock hammer unless you add material. It has been a while since I put in my half-cock parts. I never use the half-cock position to load.
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Post by tek4260 on Aug 12, 2012 7:22:55 GMT -5
The only reason I need it is to keep the hammer off the firing pin during loading. After loading 4 rounds, the rim will hit the pin and keep the cylinder from rotating. The half(ish) cock beats sticking a Popsicle stick between the hammer and frame to load
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Aggie01
.375 Atomic
max
Posts: 1,770
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Post by Aggie01 on Aug 12, 2012 8:48:20 GMT -5
The only reason I need it is to keep the hammer off the firing pin during loading. After loading 4 rounds, the rim will hit the pin and keep the cylinder from rotating. The half(ish) cock beats sticking a Popsicle stick between the hammer and frame to load Did you delete the transfer bar?
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Post by tek4260 on Aug 12, 2012 10:03:00 GMT -5
Yes I will when I weld up the face.
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Post by tek4260 on Aug 12, 2012 11:53:25 GMT -5
So I had the bright idea of drilling and tapping the hammer face to install a screw rather than welding, with the idea that if I didn't like it I could still use the hammer with a transfer bar. I have some 6x48 base screws that have tall heads and I could file it down to the proper thickness. Well that cost me 2 new #32 bits. Seems the hammer is HARD! Oh well, nothing a welder can't cure
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carl
.327 Meteor
Posts: 546
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Post by carl on Sept 4, 2012 16:13:47 GMT -5
I'd try a different hammer. Are there signs that the hammer's face, i.e. the part that contacts the transfer bar and transfers the energy to the firing pin, has been "messed with"? I bet the source of your "firing pin over extension" lies in the hammer well.....
I like to gently smooth up the transfer bar and deepen the "notch" on the face of the hammer so there's no "transfer bar pinch". Some folks think slimming the transfer bar is the answer........
Carl
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