Educate me about base pins

[Mark Terry]

I have a Herter's single action "44 Calibre" 44 magnum I picked up. It's got what I think are a few problems, one of which is the base pin which may not be the original but with the current base pin installed, there is a few thousandths play in the cyllinder along the base pin. I can measure about 0.008" but with the hammer cocked, it's only 0.004" (measuring the barrel / cylinder gap using feeler gauges).

The base pin measures 0.246 in diameter and is easily removed and re-installed. It's obvious it's been blacksmithed.

I was going to order a base pin from Brownell's to replace it until I saw all the options. My Rugers have 0.250" base pins and I think I could make one of them work but in looking at the pins, there is a spring loaded pin on the end which isn't on the Herters. What's this for and does the Herters need to have this?

The Herters also has provisions on the frame for the pin to protrude through the frame like the Uberti's but the current base pin isn't long enough. Could it have been longer originally?

Will a properly fitted base pin make the cylinder play go away? I'd first figured I could shim it but if it locks up tight when the hammer is cocked, it may bind (??).

I'd be interested in you guys thoughts and suggestions.

EDIT - I had another question related to the Base Mountain #5 base pin: How does the locking screw work?

I was thinking actually of ordering one or two for other guns and using the take off for the Herters.

[Aggie01]

1. The base pin willl not tighten up endshake. If the cylinder moves front to back, the base pin does not impact that axis.
2. The spring loaded pin is to keep the transfer bar from hanging up on the firing pin on a Ruger. It won't hurt on a traditional single action, but it's not needed.
3. As long as the base pin goes into the frame at the rear, the length is fine, there is no need for it to protrude through.
4. as per my 1. above, a base pin cannot tighten endshake, a tighter base pin fit can only eliminate "slop" in the plane perpendicular to its centerline.
5. Kelye offers two locking screw types -
a) a hex head screw which simply binds against the barrel. Overtightening of this screw can cause binding of the base pin, as it forces the head of the base pin away from the barrel.
(not worth it, IMHO - I ordered my NON HEAVY CALIBER pins from Belt Mtn with no lock screws)
b) the Bowen-type lock screw, where the flat head screw bottoms out in the base pin and the shaft of the screw fits into a recess machined into the barrel. (The only way to go for a gun that hits too hard for a extra power base pin latch spring to hold the pin in. a) above can actually be torque sensitive to alignment.)

A bonus that most people don't realize from the No. 5 style base pin for Colts (or the herter's) and mid frame/ single six Rugers, is that the base pin is prevented from turning in the frame.
(actually all of KS's base pins do this, due to the base pin latch slot not being cut all the way around - it's just more obvious in the No. 5 and the like)
This keeps wear confined to the more sacrificial cylinder and base pin instead of the frame. A cylinder can get a new bushing, a base pin can be replaced, but wear a frame hole oversize and you need a major overhaul.

I recommend taking careful measurements then calling Kelye at Belt Mountain. I have recently asked for a few non catalogued items from him, and he has been fantastic to deal with. ( I ordered 10 base pins - only two of the 10 were on his website) You get exactly what you want, and at the same prices as Brownell's.
(with cheaper shipping)
If need be, that's what I'll be doing when my Herter's gets here.

[nobearsyet]

Couldn't have said it better myself Aggie, however, if the frame hole got a little wallowed from use, couldn't it be bushed as well? never seen it, but my thinking is it might work

[Mark Terry]

Thanks, Aggie01.

I'd actually figured out the spring on the end of the Ruger pins just looking at it after I wrote the post. Pretty smart design.

So, what shall we do about the end shake? Not worry about it? If the b/c gap is relatively tight on lock up, does this indicate the wear (or problem, if it's a problem) is in or around the rachet end of the cylinder or that part of the frame?

Am I even thinking about this logically? If the wear is at the rachet end, would shimming (at the front end) create a possibilty of binding? I may try ty and see.

I will call Belt mountain tomorrow.

Thanks for the information and advice.

[nobearsyet]

Might try an endshake bearing, I know you can get them for the Vaquero and Blackhawk, but not sure about the Herter's