Aggie01
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Post by Aggie01 on Jun 21, 2009 6:30:02 GMT -5
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Post by nobearsyet on Jun 21, 2009 8:46:33 GMT -5
Have someone else put that one together, I own several (lost count at 14) 1911s and I can tell you 1. There's no such thing as drop in 2. Rock Island guns are softer than Llamas 3. There is no such thing as drop in 4. Trigger work, barrel work, and mating up 2 different top ends can be a sure fire way to get in a lot of trouble real fast 5. There is no such thing as drop in 6. and last but not least, triggers, barrels, and slide fit (as it does have a bit to do with barrel lockup) are the most dangerous and trickiest things to do with a 1911 and are probably best left to a proffessional that being said, depending on what is all there for aftermarket parts you might not have done as bad as the Norinco slide and Rock Island frame may lead you to belive (FYI, the Norinco aren't known for high quality, but the Rock Island guns are mil spec, just soft)
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Aggie01
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Post by Aggie01 on Jun 21, 2009 11:19:56 GMT -5
Where did you get your information on RIA guns being soft and Norinco's being poor quality? That's in direct contradiction to everything I read over about a 4 hour period searching for reviews of both. Point me at an article or review with a bad word to say about either. The RIA is considered an entry level 1911, but the Norinco was very highly regarded by everyone but the Clinton administration, and smiths who chewed up cutters dovetailing new sights into the 5100 series steel of the upper.
My local dealer may know jack about singleactions, but he builds a few 1911 race guns a year. He will probably end up going thru this one.
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Post by boxhead on Jun 21, 2009 11:24:23 GMT -5
You have a lot of work ahead of you now that is for sure. The Norinco stuff is made of very good steel, that I know. The risk you have is if any of the parts are undersize such that things come together too loose. I put together a 1911 some years ago and really enjoyed it. I used top quality parts and did all of the work except the barrel fitting which I left to Claudio Salasa at Briley. It is 100% reliable and an honest 2" gun at 50 yards. Get a copy of Kuhnhausen's book and enjoy the project. If things are sloppy replace the part rather than live with it. As for how you did, only you will know when the parts arrive. I believe a bare bones Springfield or Para`s new simliar gun can be had for $500 or so.
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Post by nobearsyet on Jun 21, 2009 11:46:11 GMT -5
Well, the RIA I cut up last summer was only spot hardened (IE around the holes in the frame) making the steel rather soft in most parts (like when we cut the gripframe and slide rails to officers model size) and I've never seen a Norinco that wasn't loose as a goose, be it handgun or shotgun (and I've owned a couple of their side by sides and their replica of the Winchester 1897)
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Post by AxeHandle on Jun 21, 2009 14:06:25 GMT -5
Yo Aggie01... Simple answer to your question.. YOU DONE GOOD! In the circles I ran in the Norincos had a reputation for good slides and frames... Don't know about the RIA frame but so long as the pin holes are parallel it will be okay... Got to Midway and Brownell's and price the parts....
What to do beyond this point depends on your skills and expectations... I'd also take it as a sign that you won't be able to just put it together and shoot it or it would have been sold that way but with luck it won't take much to make it a shooter
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Madbo
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Post by Madbo on Jun 22, 2009 10:31:14 GMT -5
HEY AGGIE, LOOKS TO ME LIKE YOU ARE IN TRAINING TO BE A GUNSMITH. ONCE YOU GET EVERY THING ASSEMBLED AND BUILT YOU SHOULD HAVE A FINE SHOOTER. I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU GETTING JERRY KUHNHAUSEN'S SHOP MANUAL. ALSO I WILL HIGHLY RECOMMEND AND THIS IS A PERSONAL SECRET OF MINE FIND A COPY OF: "THE GUN DIGEST BOOK OF PISTOLSMITHING" BY JACK MITCHELL CHAPTER #14 IS DEVOTED TO THE LATE BOB DAY'S PISTOLSMITHING. I HAVE USED HIS TECHNIQUES IN THE PAST. I THINK ITS ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS WRITTEN ON THE SUBJECT. I HAVE A PERSONAL COPY IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO USE IT LET ME KNOW. SO DID YOU DO GOOD? WHAT YOU WILL LEARN BY THE TIME YOU REACH THE FINISH LINE ON THIS PROJECT................................WILL BE PRICELESS. ;D GOOD LUCK SU AMIGO MB
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Post by angryman on Jun 22, 2009 14:20:18 GMT -5
My buddy gave me a box stock RIA awhile back. So far I've put 2,700 rounds through it without so much as a hiccup. The only thing I did was put in a new 16lb recoil spring when I got it (just because). Nothing but FMJ, as John Moses designed it. I shoot exactly the same with it as I do with my Colt. I think those guys in the Phillipines just take pride in their work and put out a good product for the money. I have nothing to base that on, it's just my gut feeling, and how this one has shot so far. I have read (a lot) on the two 1911 boards, that ArmsCorps (RIA) has a top notch warranty and will fix any problems, no hassle.
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Aggie01
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Post by Aggie01 on Jun 23, 2009 8:28:36 GMT -5
I have no intention of becoming a gunsmith, I just like to tinker. A "gunsmith" probably wouldn't have a 6-32 tap snapped off in the gripframe of his .45 Colt New Vaquero right now. Luckily, I know someone who is going to edm the tap out for me. (Which of course, begs the question, why didn't I have that guy do the threading in the first place...well I like to tinker.) MB, I think I'll have to take you up on that offer. I'm hung up for the next couple weeks, but maybe we can get together after the weekend of the 4th. Found a neat site. how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/index.html
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Post by AxeHandle on Jun 23, 2009 19:17:20 GMT -5
Speaking of 1911... Picked up a Fobus paddle for a 1911 yesterday. $20 out the door..... Nothing high tech but makes it very easy to pick up the 45 when I go to walk the dog... Never know when I might need to pop a neighborgood cat or two... ;D
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Aggie01
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Post by Aggie01 on Jul 2, 2009 10:49:06 GMT -5
Got it in hand yesterday. Frame and slide are basically an interference fit right now. I think that's a good thing. My local FFL looked over the gun, said the major components (slide, frame, barrel barrel bushing) fit too tight rather than too loose, so we have room to work and material to remove. He recommended throwing away most of the internals and action parts and starting with match grade stuff before I get frustrated trying to make the parts that came with it work. He was very put off by the plum slide and the matte blue frame. I was forced to make a statement I have made on this forum before - hard chrome is a great equalizer.
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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 2, 2009 15:45:28 GMT -5
So is Duracoat, especially if you're gonna carry it
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c.r.
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"I mainly just know about possums."
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Post by c.r. on Jul 7, 2009 16:00:42 GMT -5
John, I'm not sure of all the details on a finish called "melonite"......well actually from what i've read, it isn't exactly a "finish". The little bit i've read has me at least interested in further looking into it. Here's a link to the first thing that caught my eye. www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=5402018i'm not going to base my decision on just that one link, but like i said, it got me interested. ~c.r.
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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 8, 2009 12:12:20 GMT -5
That's a pretty good put together instuction sheet Aggie, but read the whole thing before you mess with a 1911, some stuff is out of order
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Aggie01
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Post by Aggie01 on Jul 14, 2009 10:41:52 GMT -5
I got it all put together last night...and the hammer wont drop much past half cock. Its definately interaction from the slide but I'm not sure where yet. Back to the books. I sure have gotten a lot of appreciation for Kuhnhausen and John Browning working on this thing.
I spent a good bit of the gun show Sunday picking up 1911's and seeing how sloppy they felt. This thing is way tighter than anything I picked up. Hooray for fortuitous tolerance stacking, right? I'm thinking beavertail safety and a new hammer for sure, but I want to shoot it first.
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