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Post by capntex on Jun 13, 2011 16:20:49 GMT -5
After shooting 30-40 rounds of CAS loads, the bolt screw backs out 1 to 1-1/2 turns.
It's annoying to have to keep re-setting this screw.
I'm not familiar with SAA actions AND I've lost my schematic (a first for me). Can I safely remove the screw, coat the threads with temporary thread-lok and re-install the screw?
Or will something go "BOING" in the action and disable the revolver?
It's already been back to Stoeger for warranty repairs once due to a "... broken trigger/bolt spring ...". That after only 114 CAS rounds fired. It's my wife's first revolver, and while she really loves the gun & cartridge, she's a little disappointed in these two issues so far.
Your expertise appreciated.
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Post by peacemaker on Jun 13, 2011 20:50:48 GMT -5
Usually it's the hammer screw. Anyway, you can back the screw out enough for threads to show, apply a drop of blue loc-tite and screw it back in. Wipe off the excess and let it cure. Just be careful not to back it too far or you'll need to disassemble and reassemble the back strap and trigger guard.
You really need to invest in a couple hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers and learn how to disassemble the action yourself. The single action is very simple.
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Post by capntex on Jun 14, 2011 8:20:36 GMT -5
Thank you, Peacemaker. Funny you mentioned the screwdrivers. I'd just found a set at Dillon Precision I was thinking of including in my next order. Guess you can't be too old to learn more than 1911s and Glocks.
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Otony
.327 Meteor
Posts: 722
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Post by Otony on Jun 14, 2011 23:00:28 GMT -5
Another trick is to take a piece of monofilament line and wrap it into one or two threads. Works very well, and prevents the screw from backing out, yet is easily dissasembled.
Sort of like the old Ny-lock screw that Ruger used to install.......
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Post by capntex on Jun 15, 2011 7:49:14 GMT -5
Now that's a neat trick, too, Otony. Thanks for mentioning it.
I often use wood toothpicks for home repairs in worn screw holes in wood cabinets, etc. The monofilament line is the equivalent for metal applications, and I wouldn't have thought of it.
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Post by Frank V on Jun 16, 2011 6:01:54 GMT -5
A trick I've tried with great success is to wrap the threads with a wrap of plumbers Teflon Tape. This works similar to the monofilimant cure. I haven't heard of the monofilimant trick before, it will bear remembering. Hope these help. Frank
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