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Post by reflex264 on Sept 23, 2024 8:20:59 GMT -5
Well let's see if the Crimson Trace holds up on the 475. If it does this will be great after I figure out the reticle stadia with the 400 grain Speer at 1400 fps. If this scope doesn't hold up on the .475 I have a new Leupold that I can stick on it.  |
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 23, 2024 9:10:59 GMT -5
Now I have a minute. If y'all have mounted a scope with one of these basis you know they need to make some changes. I have another base so I am going to do it. A couple of slots milled in the right positions will allow better ring positioning and or 4 rings for the heavy kickers. The rear of the base needs to be cut off at an angle to allow scopes with larger eye piece / ocular lens housing to be mounted without going too tall rings on the heavy kickers. The gun has shown great accuracy potential with iron sights so expecting great things with a scope.
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Post by AxeHandle on Sept 23, 2024 9:12:46 GMT -5
Never scoped a BFR but just the sight of that brings back bad memories. The first of rubber grips on a 44 Mag SBH back in the 80s. That one helped me understand that the SBH grip frame actually needed to slip in my hand. When it didn't move the, flesh did. Had a blister in the palm of my right hand. The second was a 450 Marlin BFR. EVIL in every way was a good description of it. Thinking the rubber might be bad I tried some slick wood "target" grips. They simply opened up the palm of my hand to more battering.
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Post by handgunhuntingafield on Sept 23, 2024 9:34:39 GMT -5
Never had a problem keeping a scope on a Bfr with the factory base…and 2 rings of good quality.
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 23, 2024 13:43:55 GMT -5
Never scoped a BFR but just the sight of that brings back bad memories. The first of rubber grips on a 44 Mag SBH back in the 80s. That one helped me understand that the SBH grip frame actually needed to slip in my hand. When it didn't move the, flesh did. Had a blister in the palm of my right hand. The second was a 450 Marlin BFR. EVIL in every way was a good description of it. Thinking the rubber might be bad I tried some slick wood "target" grips. They simply opened up the palm of my hand to more battering. This one doesn't bother me but Matt said it was rough on his hand. It may be the way I hold them. I use a near death grip on them. I don't want them to move. I would rather my whole arm take the recoil in a fluid movement. This thing does recoil a bit. If you want to shoot something that handles recoil well the Ronnie Wellls Dealer on my little 45/.460 Rowland is near perfection. That 4° he builds into it causes you to use your forearm in bracing the gun. Before the recoil smack your palm the take-up has already started mitigating recoil. Even with the 360 grains at 1250 fps from the 4 5/8" barrel doesn't seem too terrible. |
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 24, 2024 7:36:11 GMT -5
I got to shoot it yesterday. I am going to have to pull it off and shim the base. ON the bright side at 25 yards it will shoot through the same hole.
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Post by lar4570 on Sept 24, 2024 10:36:56 GMT -5
I have had to cut soda can shims to place inside the rings to slightly angle the scope. It seems like I tried shimming between the base and rings, but that rattled loose. I guess a shim under the base and on top of the top strap could be a solid option. I'd be interested in hearing how it holds up. My 475 BFR came with the older style rubber grips, so I modified a Houge MonoGrip for a Ruger SBH and put it on. It fits pretty good and handles recoil well. The 475 is the 2nd one down from the top. Sorry needed more light in the picture.  |
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Post by bigbrowndog on Sept 24, 2024 11:03:05 GMT -5
So it’s shooting high or low??? What bullet and speed are you getting/using??
Trapr
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 24, 2024 14:09:38 GMT -5
So it’s shooting high or low??? What bullet and speed are you getting/using?? Trapr Shooting low. First loads to get it on paper were 420 grains that are running right at 1200 fps. The 400 Speers that I am going to run are right at 1400 fps. With the adjustment at the end of erector travel it is still 2" lower than it needs to be at 25 yards. Pretty simple to fix. I have shim material. Had to do this another gun or two. Works well. |
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Post by lar4570 on Sept 24, 2024 20:54:50 GMT -5
Sounds like you need to shim the rear of the mount some. It might be worthwhile to put an extra shim in to get the scope adjustment back closer to the center of travel?
I picked up some Red loktite (600?) to bed AR barrels into the upper receiver. I wonder if it would be useful to add a drop in the layers of shims to help hold everything in place once it's torqued down?
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 25, 2024 8:16:45 GMT -5
Sounds like you need to shim the rear of the mount some. It might be worthwhile to put an extra shim in to get the scope adjustment back closer to the center of travel? I picked up some Red locktite (600?) to bed AR barrels into the upper receiver. I wonder if it would be useful to add a drop in the layers of shims to help hold everything in place once it's torqued down? Yes. When shimming a scope to get it correct I will re-center the cross hairs first. The rear of the base will have to be shimmed. Since I know the adjustment range of the scope is 15 MOA for elevation and windage re-centering it is easy. On the shims, the way the screws are positioned on the scope mounting base will make it difficult to do what I normally do which is put a hole in the shim to line up with a screw hole to keep it in place. A dab of Loctite does keep it in place until the base is torqued down. I will measure it in the next few days to figure out the shim thickness. Not too difficult a task. |
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Post by drycreek on Sept 25, 2024 17:20:19 GMT -5
Sounds like you need to shim the rear of the mount some. It might be worthwhile to put an extra shim in to get the scope adjustment back closer to the center of travel? I picked up some Red locktite (600?) to bed AR barrels into the upper receiver. I wonder if it would be useful to add a drop in the layers of shims to help hold everything in place once it's torqued down? Yes. When shimming a scope to get it correct I will re-center the cross hairs first. The rear of the base will have to be shimmed. Since I know the adjustment range of the scope is 15 MOA for elevation and windage re-centering it is easy. On the shims, the way the screws are positioned on the scope mounting base will make it difficult to do what I normally do which is put a hole in the shim to line up with a screw hole to keep it in place. A dab of Loctite does keep it in place until the base is torqued down. I will measure it in the next few days to figure out the shim thickness. Not too difficult a task. I would not use soda cans to make the shims. Beer cans are the way to go and never cut more than one shim per can. Use a premium beer can, not an el cheapo. Empty the cans first and don’t be wasteful. Wait until the next day to actually work on the gun. Just kidding, I don’t even drink beer !  |
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Post by reflex264 on Sept 25, 2024 18:16:45 GMT -5
Yes. When shimming a scope to get it correct I will re-center the cross hairs first. The rear of the base will have to be shimmed. Since I know the adjustment range of the scope is 15 MOA for elevation and windage re-centering it is easy. On the shims, the way the screws are positioned on the scope mounting base will make it difficult to do what I normally do which is put a hole in the shim to line up with a screw hole to keep it in place. A dab of Loctite does keep it in place until the base is torqued down. I will measure it in the next few days to figure out the shim thickness. Not too difficult a task. I would not use soda cans to make the shims. Beer cans are the way to go and never cut more than one shim per can. Use a premium beer can, not an el cheapo. Empty the cans first and don’t be wasteful. Wait until the next day to actually work on the gun. Just kidding, I don’t even drink beer ! I have some shim stock. Beer would get the gun drunk and make it shoot funny. |
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boster
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 7 
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Post by boster on Sept 26, 2024 17:09:41 GMT -5
I have had to cut soda can shims to place inside the rings to slightly angle the scope. It seems like I tried shimming between the base and rings, but that rattled loose. I guess a shim under the base and on top of the top strap could be a solid option. I'd be interested in hearing how it holds up. My 475 BFR came with the older style rubber grips, so I modified a Houge MonoGrip for a Ruger SBH and put it on. It fits pretty good and handles recoil well. The 475 is the 2nd one down from the top. Sorry needed more light in the picture. lar4570...How did you modify a rubber Hogue for a SBH to fit on a BFR? I did a hard search some years ago for a rubber Hogue that's already made for a BFR and came up short. I think Hogue supplied MR with these grips back when the grip frame was the same size as the BFR. Mine has a JT serial number, which I think is bigger now than the SBH. What areas of the Hogue need to be relieved? I have a wood Hogue now but it's too big even for big hands, I wear extra large gloves. I swapped my S&W 686 and 629 Hogue rubber that they wore when new to the wood ones. In this case I needed the larger wood over the rubber. |
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Post by seminolewind on Sept 26, 2024 19:37:11 GMT -5
Aluminum shims will get the job done, but Burris Signature Zee rings have ring inserts that allow windage and elevation adjustments beyond the internal scope adjustments. Very neat.
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