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Post by foxtrapper on Aug 20, 2024 10:42:13 GMT -5
Do you need both a go and no go gauge to check headspace on a ar-10? Spendy tool for a one off or two needs. So if I can get away with just one…..
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Post by Randominator on Aug 20, 2024 10:59:48 GMT -5
I only have “go” gages. I add a piece of Scotch tape to the head and trim off the excess with a knife. Makes a perfect “no go” gage.
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Post by bigbore5 on Aug 20, 2024 12:04:06 GMT -5
I use both
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Post by handgunhuntingafield on Aug 20, 2024 13:53:27 GMT -5
On a semi…..I’d use both.
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Post by foxtrapper on Aug 20, 2024 15:42:44 GMT -5
I knew it was cost me money! 🤣
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Post by x101airborne on Aug 20, 2024 17:02:06 GMT -5
Use a grinder to trim one side of the rim of the gauges so you dont have to remove the extractor to get a reading. Orient the trim side to go under the extractor. Punch it out with a brass rod or a sturdy cleaning rod. That is how the military checks headspace in the armory when I was there. The armorers just use a no go gauge. If it doesn't work with a no go gauge it is in spec. It is a quick and ugly way of doing it but when you do 4 thousand firearms a day, you have to be quick.
On the civilian side, I have never used a gauge. I guess I am too trusting that I got the right parts but my AR's dont see the round count my M-4's did.
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Post by foxtrapper on Aug 20, 2024 17:43:47 GMT -5
Use a grinder to trim one side of the rim of the gauges so you dont have to remove the extractor to get a reading. Orient the trim side to go under the extractor. Punch it out with a brass rod or a sturdy cleaning rod. That is how the military checks headspace in the armory when I was there. The armorers just use a no go gauge. If it doesn't work with a no go gauge it is in spec. It is a quick and ugly way of doing it but when you do 4 thousand firearms a day, you have to be quick. On the civilian side, I have never used a gauge. I guess I am too trusting that I got the right parts but my AR's dont see the round count my M-4's did. I see the Manson gauge has the extractor cutout…. These are all new parts from reputable manufacturers. If I have to buy two I’ll go with the no go for the 308 and 223. |
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Post by magpouch on Aug 21, 2024 6:06:52 GMT -5
Depending on your needs, you may want to use a Field reject instead of No-Go. Lots of opinions of course, but unlikely you would see much actual difference unless you use the rifle for serious competition. After all, when you purchase the gages, most folks have no idea if they are actually in spec. Although it is most certainly possible to hold these types of gages to .XXXX tolerance, I highly doubt that they are...
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Post by matt56 on Aug 21, 2024 17:35:34 GMT -5
No go is just used for setting headspace, it lets you know that if it doesn’t close on a no-go and does close on a go that you are okay. It doesn’t necessarily mean anything is wrong if it closes on a no go. You need a field gauge to know for sure, closing on a field means there is an issue and the rifle may not be safe to fire
Also there are fake gauges on Amazon with brand names like forester, etc. Buyer beware, if it seems too good to be true it probably is
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