Is there an easy for this?

[tj3006]

My guess is no!
Squib load left a cast SWC stuck half in the Cylinder and half in the forcing cone. Gun is a 629-4.
Thinking a dowel might push it back in the case with a gentle tap or 40?
...thanks. ...tj

[hgunhtr]

yep had to do it myself.

[Encore64]

Yeah, just use a wooden dowel and tap the bullet back into the cylinder...it happens

[bigbrowndog]

Yep, happens more than some would care to mention. I loaded a bunch of 165gr. 44’s for my 3” 629. Only after seating 50-75 did I notice that I’d only dumped 3gr. of powder instead of the intended 6 gr. They sit on my bench in a box, been there for 10 years at least, I should probably shoot them and see if the bullet exits the barrel.

Trapr

[jeffh]

First of all, I AM NOT A GUNSMITH. Just an old Hillbilly who's made an educational mistake or two and paid for them without the benefit of grants, student loans or scholarship money.

Just remember that one "hard" whack with a "heavy" hammer will make things MOVE, but a lot of "light" taps with a "lighter" hammer will make things DEFORM.

I've seen a few cases where someone tried to tap a stuck bullet out of a bore, but more or less swaged the bullet to fill the bore more completely than possible by firing it - stuck cleaning rod. I've stuck cast bullets in bores while researching "cat-sneeze" loads. Some Kroil dribbled into the bore, a SAFE rod (as big as will fit and not rattle around in the bore) and given the rod a good whack with a 2# hammer and the bullet MOVES. Once it starts, it'll go easier. If you've ever peened a copper rivet to hang onto a tinner's burr, that should make sense.

This is NOT the exact situation you face, but I offer it to make the point to be careful about being too careful. In other words, I don't think light taps will serve one nearly as well as a good, sharp thump.

If a real gunsmith thinks I'm full-o'-beans, please speak up. I'm only relating limited personal experience with my own guns and a few thinks I've seen go wrong for others.

HYPOTHESIZING: The bullet shouldn't be lodged TOO firmly, having passed through the throat and not completely into the rifling yet. My guess would be that the most resistance you might encounter would be when the base of the bullet gets to the case mouth.  If you used a bevel-base bullet, that might make things go nicer.

Good luck, and if you have any doubts, seek professional help. NO shame in that.

[strawhat]

I would never advise anyone to use a wooden dowel in a bore. When it splinters you really have a jam. I would suggest a brass, aluminum or even a steel rod, very close to bore diameter. And yes, a good solid whack.

Kevin

[bradshaw]

Jul 29, 2024 14:39:32 GMT -5 tj3006 said:

My guess is no!
Squib load left a cast SWC stuck half in the Cylinder and half in the forcing cone. Gun is a 629-4.
Thinking a dowel might push it back in the case with a gentle tap or 40?
...thanks. ...tj

*****

Just read your question. Others may have answered. To remove a squib from a ,44 or .45, I tap the bullet back into the cylinder with a 3/8” hardwood dowel. When you carve a jag on the end, or bothe ends, of a 3/8” dowel, you have a superior cleaning rod for .44's, and a very good rod for cleaning .45’s.

A typical SQUIB LOAD consists of:
* case, primer, bullet, no powder.
or:
* case, bullet, powder. damaged primer.

Cast bullet are more easily tapped back into the cylinder than jacketed when the bullet engages the rifling.

For .38 calibers or less, I wrap electricians tape around a brass rod and, as with the wood dowel, tap with a hammer. If the brass rod is not at hand, I tape up a steel rod.
David Bradshaw

[tj3006]

Thank you guy's. The job is done!

[gnappi]

A neighbor had his SBH barrel fully blocked with plastic "training" bullets the kind you can shoot indoors with a primer. We used a wood dowel and gently banged one back into the case and removed the cylinder to clear the rest of them out.