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Post by bigbore5 on Jun 9, 2024 3:01:54 GMT -5
Looks good to go to me.
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 9, 2024 23:42:00 GMT -5
So, gents, I've discovered a hitch in my reloading strategy as concerns the Ideal tool. I loaded 50 rounds today and realized after I was all done, that the tool is not properly crimping the case neck at the crimp groove in the bullet. It's actually seating the bullet past the crimp groove and then just providing neck tightness to hold the bullet in place. I did not notice this with my first loads the other day, but in looking at pictures of a proper crimp, and also comparing a bullet with one seated in a case, I can see the tool is pressing the bullet into the case past the crimp groove. I did realize yesterday that I cannot close the tool all the way down to the rim, as that crushes the case - I close it only to the beginning of the groove before the rim and that seats the bullet fairly tightly without crushing the case. I believe all this is due to the fact that the tool is made to seat a bullet like it would produce from its built-in mold. When I compare my bullets to that mold, mine have a wider ogive, so they are essentially "fatter," coming in contact with the sides of the tool too soon, and that's why they're seating too deep. So, I guess my first question is, am I going to be able to find a cast bullet that has a slimmer ogive? Second question, I fired these loads yesterday with no problem. Is the fact that the bullet is seating past the crimp groove and only held in place by neck tightness a problem? I don't want to cause a pressure issue by having the bullet seated too deep (I understand this can be a concern). If it's not possible to find a bullet with a slimmer ogive, I reckon I should sell this tool, as I'd rather have a setup that gives me a nice tight crimp where I want it. Thanks, DeWayne
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Post by bigbore5 on Jun 10, 2024 3:38:16 GMT -5
Your load doesn't sound too stiff and the bullet doesn't look to be seated overly deep. My concern would be bullet pull under recoil.
Load six. Fire five, then measure the remaining cartridge's oal and see if it has pulled the bullet any. If it hasn't pulled, don't worry about it. I personally wouldn't run it more than one cylinder turn without firing it to be sure the bullet doesn't pull and jam the cylinder regardless.
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sharps4590
.30 Stingray
I'm a Christian first, husband and father next then a patriotic, veteran, firearms aficionado.
Posts: 361
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Post by sharps4590 on Jun 10, 2024 7:04:20 GMT -5
A man can't fault that!
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 10, 2024 8:35:55 GMT -5
Your load doesn't sound too stiff and the bullet doesn't look to be seated overly deep. My concern would be bullet pull under recoil. Load six. Fire five, then measure the remaining cartridge's oal and see if it has pulled the bullet any. If it hasn't pulled, don't worry about it. I personally wouldn't run it more than one cylinder turn without firing it to be sure the bullet doesn't pull and jam the cylinder regardless. Thanks for the advice. Just to give you some specs, using my cheap digital caliper, when I load virgin Starline brass with these Hunter's Choice bullets, my OAL comes up 1.52-1.53". However, I note that when I'm reloading the fired brass, my OAL is coming up 1.51-1.52". Also, I'm inspecting all by loads by hand, trying to twist the bullets or push them farther into the case (in other words, checking that case neck tension). On a couple, I was able to push the bullets into the cartridge by hand, so I scrapped those rounds. On a couple I am able to twist the bullet with some force, but not push or pull it. And on the rest, after fine tuning my hand-squeezing pressure on the tool, I am neither able to push nor rotate the bullet in the case. It is a very fine line between applying the maximum hand force to squeeze that bullet just right or crushing the case, because I can't bottom out to the rim - I have to go by feel more than anything, and muscle memory. Kind of tricky. Thanks, DeWayne
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Post by bigbore5 on Jun 10, 2024 19:15:56 GMT -5
That's why I still strongly suggest a set of dies and a press, even a hand press, as soon as you can. The ability to adjust the dies for a good crimp by fully closing the press is the key to quality loads.
A set of Lee dies and a handpress can be had new for about $100 if you watch for a sale. You will not regret the expense. I've loaded thousands on one and still use it for load development right at my bench.
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 10, 2024 20:10:42 GMT -5
Made a quick trip to the country this afternoon just to see if my bullets were moving under recoil - glad to say they're not. Also glad to say that in broad daylight, where I could see better, I could pace off 15 yards and fire off-hand so see where the pistol was printing. At 15 yards, that sweet baby is printing dead on point of aim! I must have snagged a good from Colt - those sights seem to be perfect for me.
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sharps4590
.30 Stingray
I'm a Christian first, husband and father next then a patriotic, veteran, firearms aficionado.
Posts: 361
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Post by sharps4590 on Jun 10, 2024 20:33:05 GMT -5
I would not concern myself with 0.01 - 0.02 difference in seating depth in a revolver.
Why not just cast bullets with the mold on the end of the hand tool?
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 10, 2024 20:53:04 GMT -5
I might try that at some point. My understanding is that tool gets palm-melting hot when you're using it to cast.
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rjtodd
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 76
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Post by rjtodd on Jun 16, 2024 20:57:22 GMT -5
Made a quick trip to the country this afternoon just to see if my bullets were moving under recoil - glad to say they're not. Also glad to say that in broad daylight, where I could see better, I could pace off 15 yards and fire off-hand so see where the pistol was printing. At 15 yards, that sweet baby is printing dead on point of aim! I must have snagged a good from Colt - those sights seem to be perfect for me. View AttachmentI started in 1984 at the age of 13 with a Lyman starter set. I have a bit more than that today, but most of the equipment is more want than need. For the loads you’re making there is so much case capacity that a small variance in seating depth wouldn’t likely show up even from a Ransom rest. A crimp for that powder charge is not only unnecessary, it might even be counter productive. Enjoy what you have, and as your interest grows, look for good deals and “hand me downs”. No need to be in a huge rush and great deals do come a long. Glad to see you’re enjoying what you’re making. There is a big sense of satisfaction from shooting your own loads, and you admitted to experimenting for improvement on your very first outing. I’d say you’re hooked. Best, Randy
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 17, 2024 9:24:01 GMT -5
Thanks, Randy! I got some pre-lubed bullets from Graf & Sons and boy, did it make the process so much faster and neater! I bought a couple different brands, but both .427" 200 grain RNFP. Don't really expect any difference in accuracy, just wanted to see if one fit my tool better (i.e. crimped at the crimp groove). Neither did, but they load just fine.
BTW, I slugged my bore and it shows .427", so I think my .427" bullets are good to go ... I also slugged one of the chamber mouths and it was showing ~.429, so all in all, I think I got a good one from Colt considering these measurements and the fact that it's shooting to point-of-aim.
DeWayne
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rjtodd
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 76
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Post by rjtodd on Jun 18, 2024 19:05:56 GMT -5
Thanks, Randy! I got some pre-lubed bullets from Graf & Sons and boy, did it make the process so much faster and neater! I bought a couple different brands, but both .427" 200 grain RNFP. Don't really expect any difference in accuracy, just wanted to see if one fit my tool better (i.e. crimped at the crimp groove). Neither did, but they load just fine. BTW, I slugged my bore and it shows .427", so I think my .427" bullets are good to go ... I also slugged one of the chamber mouths and it was showing ~.429, so all in all, I think I got a good one from Colt considering these measurements and the fact that it's shooting to point-of-aim. DeWayne Glad to hear about your continued success. Conventional wisdom on bullet size is to fit the throat or in this case your cylinder mouths. Many experts repeat the advice that the best fit is one that is a drag fit in your cylinder mouth. You might find some .429” cast bullets and give them a try. It is all part of the fun now that you have the ability to control the variables in your custom ammo. Enjoy the journey! Randy
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 19, 2024 21:51:11 GMT -5
OK, gents, so I went back and did a better slug/measurement of my cylinder mouth(s). I'm showing .430"
So, with a bore size of .427", and cylinder mouth of .430", which would be the preferable 200 grain cast bullet?:
a) .427 b) .428 c) .430
There seem to be two schools of thought from what I'm reading (and when chamber mouth size is larger than bore size), either: bore size + .001", or those who size to the chamber mouth.
Thoughts?
Thanks, DeWayne
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Post by bigbore5 on Jun 20, 2024 1:44:49 GMT -5
I get best accuracy and less leading sizing to the cylinder throats or about .0005" over.
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Post by eisenhower on Jun 20, 2024 22:06:41 GMT -5
Today, I got a Lee Loader kit to try my hand at the "whack-a-mole" method. I have to say, it was super simple and seemingly pretty fool-proof, which is right up my alley. Unlike my learning curve with the Lyman tool and .44-40, I loaded 50 rounds of .44 Special and didn't damage a single case. Now, I really want to find a Lee Kit in .44-40 (no longer in production) so I can sell this Ideal tool to a collector. The Lee kits let me adjust my crimp so it's just right, which I can't do with the Ideal. DeWayne
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