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Post by longoval on Jan 25, 2024 20:34:37 GMT -5
I came across a New Model Blackhawk in 41 mag that was cheap enough for me to pick up. It has some unique features that I'm not sure if they are original or not.
Anyway, the ears on the xr3-red aluminum grip frame stick up very proud of the cylinder frame. I intend to file them down to fit. I am not interested in trying to recoat the grip frame after filing on it.
What is the best way to remove the anodized surface treatment? In my experience with other aluminum parts, an anodized surface can be incredibly hard with the bare metal underneath it fairly soft.
Is it foolish to try AO sandpaper on an AO finish? I would prefer to do it by hand. Otherwise, any suggestions for the blasting cabinet?
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woody
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,116
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Post by woody on Jan 25, 2024 20:36:04 GMT -5
Oven cleaner
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pleadthe2nd
.327 Meteor
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Posts: 883
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Post by pleadthe2nd on Jan 25, 2024 20:50:07 GMT -5
I've done it with the sandpaper before, worked very well, it came off fairly easily
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Post by stubshaft on Jan 25, 2024 22:27:44 GMT -5
IIRC - I used "Naval Jelly" rust remover. Wiped it on and washed it off.
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jeffh
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,606
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Post by jeffh on Jan 25, 2024 23:19:41 GMT -5
I don't think I ever owned one that was actually anodized, either OM or NM. They ALL looked like paint.
The ONE I stripped was a XR3-RED and it definitely was paint. I sanded it off. Came off easily.
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Post by longoval on Jan 26, 2024 10:28:28 GMT -5
I don't think I ever owned one that was actually anodized, either OM or NM. They ALL looked like paint. The ONE I stripped was a XR3-RED and it definitely was paint. I sanded it off. Came off easily. That would explain why oven cleaner and sandpaper are working. Thanks, all.
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Post by needsmostuff on Jan 26, 2024 10:28:48 GMT -5
Oven cleaner for the inside parts (under the grips). But don't be afraid of sandpaper om the exposed parts as the stripped frame will probably require some "bodywork". They ignore and cover a lot of sins when they anodize them so you will get around to fixing them anyway.
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Post by stevegr on Jan 26, 2024 10:37:33 GMT -5
I have had great success with a light bead blast
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gnappi
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,394
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Post by gnappi on Jan 26, 2024 10:51:58 GMT -5
An colorful anodized gripframe would be pretty cool. Now I'm thinking of stripping my unused black painted one and having it anodized.
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Post by revolvercranker on Jan 26, 2024 14:14:03 GMT -5
If the aluminum wasn't so soft underneath the coating of what ever it is, I would like it polishe aluminum bright. But as said too soft. On motorcycles that have aluminum engine covers you can polish those to look like a mirror!
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Post by wilecoyote on Jan 26, 2024 15:43:26 GMT -5
oven cleaner can badly attack & eat alu.: once aluminium flourish = shows sign of corrosion, we've a problem_ (valve covers and carter sides of my chop are shiny bright polished, indeed)_
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jeffh
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,606
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Post by jeffh on Jan 26, 2024 16:14:32 GMT -5
I boiled the one I sanded in my well water for 30 minutes. I'm no chemist, by the way, so don't ask me what it is about MY well water. I had tested a pasteurizer for a neighbor to make sure the controls were working right and reconcile actual temps/temp rise with claimed in the 1950s literature which accompanied it. Didn't have that much milk, so I used water. The whole thing had been "cleaned up" to sell by someone scrubbing the entire thing inside and out with (I assume) Scotchbrite pads, so the original "patina"/oxidation was long gone. After running several tests and dumping the water, the inside of the vessel was a nice, even medium-dark gray. I wasn't keen on the high-polish idea and looked into anod$ing, which was expensive for one piece, and ruled out painting it or Cerokoting, not wanting it to look like a Wrangler. So, I got a spaghetti pot full of well water, suspended the grip frame in it and boiled it for 30 minutes. Came out OK. It's showing wear here and there, but even the UNeven wear looks OK on it too.
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Post by revolvercranker on Jan 26, 2024 19:30:19 GMT -5
I boiled the one I sanded in my well water for 30 minutes. I'm no chemist, by the way, so don't ask me what it is about MY well water. I had tested a pasteurizer for a neighbor to make sure the controls were working right and reconcile actual temps/temp rise with claimed in the 1950s literature which accompanied it. Didn't have that much milk, so I used water. The whole thing had been "cleaned up" to sell by someone scrubbing the entire thing inside and out with (I assume) Scotchbrite pads, so the original "patina"/oxidation was long gone. After running several tests and dumping the water, the inside of the vessel was a nice, even medium-dark gray. I wasn't keen on the high-polish idea and looked into anod$ing, which was expensive for one piece, and ruled out painting it or Cerokoting, not wanting it to look like a Wrangler. So, I got a spaghetti pot full of well water, suspended the grip frame in it and boiled it for 30 minutes. Came out OK. It's showing wear here and there, but even the UNeven wear looks OK on it too.
You should have powder coated it. That aluminum would take the heat. You'd have to pick a correct color.
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Post by longoval on Jan 26, 2024 22:04:56 GMT -5
I dressed the ears down with a file to fit it to the cylinder frame. That went just fine.
Having to get way too aggressive with sandpaper to do anything but knock the shine off.... pretty sure I'm dealing with Ceracoat
Not sure what my next step is
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Post by bigmuddy on Jan 26, 2024 23:28:22 GMT -5
I read somewhere to try soaking in Simple Green. Tried it and it worked.
Dan
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