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Post by hunter01 on Dec 13, 2023 8:40:10 GMT -5
You are dealing with a minimum of three holes. The two on either side of the slide and the one in whatever it’s going through. If it was driven in, it can be driven out. However, if it is all the way through the slide hole, there could be interference from the slide now that you won’t necessarily see with your naked eye. Id imagine there is interference somewhere and you will assuredly tear something up if reasonable pressure has been applied and has not worked.
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Post by hughree on Dec 13, 2023 18:47:52 GMT -5
You are dealing with a minimum of three holes. The two on either side of the slide and the one in whatever it’s going through. If it was driven in, it can be driven out. However, if it is all the way through the slide hole, there could be interference from the slide now that you won’t necessarily see with your naked eye. Id imagine there is interference somewhere and you will assuredly tear something up if reasonable pressure has been applied and has not worked. I agree 100%. The roll pin, now removed, was designed to go through, and thus secure, the titanium firing pin that is still in the slide under spring pressure. The roll pin has been removed and apparently been replaced by the broken tip of the 3/32 punch as the firing pin is still secure and operable in the slide. I suspect the broken tip of the punch is stuck in the firing pin, the slide, or both. Sending it to Ruger will likely necessitate a new slide, extractor, firing pin, and barrel. It is a whole lot easier to pull parts from inventory that mess with a press or drill. But the complete top end is almost the cost of a new pistol plus the overnight shipping both ways because Ruger requires the serialized firearm. And it may come to that. My hope is that some gunsmith/machinist with experience dealing with stuck or frozen pins may understand and know how to address the problem. I don't have any experiences with gunsmiths or machinists in my area. If anyone here knows someone who may attempt to solve the puzzle for a fee, please feel free to provide contact info. If they cannot fix it, then there will probably be a new pistol in my future although the Lite Rack .22 has not impressed me with Ruger's design, QC, or cost of replacement parts. Again, thanks for all the recommendations. This is a community of enthusiasts who build or buy guns built from scratch. I am always impressed with the practical experience that can be found here. Lee, Fermin, Ronnie, Tinker, and other members here are artists in metal, wood, leather and bone. Maybe one of you guys can point me in the direction of a machinist/magician who has the tools and the time to tackle this problem. Thanks again. |
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Post by blacktailslayer on Dec 14, 2023 15:32:59 GMT -5
Just a though here without seeing your situation; is the punch broken off inside of the roll pin or in the same hole that the roll pin itself is in? Just wondering if the punch tip is wedging the pin "open" in the hole so it can't move.
Just a thought.
Don D.
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Post by revolvercranker on Dec 14, 2023 17:05:20 GMT -5
Get a good punch that is sligthly smaller then the hole. Clamp your slide in a vise with either brass or lead sheet between the jaws to protest the slide. Just snug up the vise to secure the slide enough that it's solid when you tap the punch to get the broken tip out. Make sure the pin punch is indeed against the broken piece you are trying to remove. Then hit the darn thing with your brass hammer or whatever hammer you are using. You're not going to hurt anything. Hit is hard, it will come out. Don't use a giant or heavy hammer, something the appropiate size and weight. Don't try to drill it out, you'll be sorry.
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Post by hughree on Dec 14, 2023 17:26:45 GMT -5
Just a though here without seeing your situation; is the punch broken off inside of the roll pin or in the same hole that the roll pin itself is in? Just wondering if the punch tip is wedging the pin "open" in the hole so it can't move. Just a thought. Don D. The entire roll pin is out. The punch broke even with the entrance hole in the slide. Tapping from the opposite side with an undersize punch doesn't budge it. I am now wondering if the original punch was not a true 3/32 for the entire length of the shaft. It entered easily enough but met resistance that I assumed to be the roll pin. I could only get the roll pin out far enough to grab and remove it with needle nose pliers before the punch broke. I'm thinking a slightly oversized shaft of the punch, not the roll pin, was causing the resistance I felt. The more I tapped thinking I was removing the roll pin, I now think I may have been wedging a slightly oversized punch into the hole in the slide. I am going to measure the broken punch above the break and see if it is larger than 3/32. That might tell the story, although it is unlikely to have a happy ending. Thanks for you comments. |
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Post by squawberryman on Dec 14, 2023 18:07:32 GMT -5
Jack Huntington just manufactured a reverse taper, bevel front plug for a Bob Marvel 1911 for me. Call him if you want it fixed. I'm guessing he can.
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Post by lar4570 on Dec 14, 2023 18:17:06 GMT -5
If it's already Broke... My thought is to use a flat faced punch instead of a roll pin punch. The roll pin punch has the rounded end on it to center in the roll pin, that may be walking off the rounded end that is stuck in there. Try a flat faced punch. I would use a brass or small ball peen hammer. I agree with mounting it in a soft jawed vise. Then when everything is aligned, SMACK it. I know a very talented GunSmith. Tim Malcom of Malcom Ballistic Tool. He has a facebook page. www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100047533513997give him a call to discuss your situation. Tell him Glenn sent you if you want to. |
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Post by revolvercranker on Dec 14, 2023 19:27:25 GMT -5
If it's already Broke... My thought is to use a flat faced punch instead of a roll pin punch. The roll pin punch has the rounded end on it to center in the roll pin, that may be walking off the rounded end that is stuck in there. Try a flat faced punch. I would use a brass or small ball peen hammer. I agree with mounting it in a soft jawed vise. Then when everything is aligned, SMACK it. I know a very talented GunSmith. Tim Malcom of Malcom Ballistic Tool. He has a facebook page. www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100047533513997give him a call to discuss your situation. Tell him Glenn sent you if you want to. That's what I tried to tell him. If I had it I'd tap it out so fast and easily it would make his head spin. If this is the hardest firearm repair he has encounter, then he's lucky. This really isn't that bad. |
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Post by bigbore5 on Dec 15, 2023 22:48:24 GMT -5
I have stuck a pin punch before so badly I had to edm it out. It can happen.
That's why I don't buy cheap punches anymore.
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Post by longoval on Dec 15, 2023 22:58:19 GMT -5
I have stuck a pin punch before so badly I had to edm it out. It can happen. That's why I don't buy cheap punches anymore. I don't doubt you at all but I find that very surprising. Perhaps there was some serious galling or other form of adhesion wear? Otherwise I would think it would be simple enough to back out the way it came in. I'm with bigbrowndog. Get that sucker secured. Like really secure. Then if it doesn't tap out use a press. Edited to add: Revolvercranker describes the potential solution well. The key is getting it tight in a vice. |
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Post by hughree on Dec 16, 2023 4:23:11 GMT -5
I appreciate all of your comments and suggestions, gents. I am going to contact Tim Malcom on Monday to discuss. Thanks, Glenn. I am familiar with Jack Huntington's wizardry and fear a conversation with him will result in me sending a crate of revolvers to him for octagon barrels, oversize cylinders and custom grips. My own loose screws pose a bigger threat than my stuck punch. In the meantime, I have carefully packed all of my punches, hammers and DIY gunsmith tools in a suitcase and given it to this guy for safekeeping: youtu.be/RP5mHb_dn5c?si=Zvj3ex4gvlWgrvfPMerry Christmas, my friends. God bless. Hugh |
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Post by squawberryman on Dec 16, 2023 8:43:19 GMT -5
This kinda reads like Job and his "friends".
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Post by majorKAP on Dec 18, 2023 3:48:24 GMT -5
Just a thought. Have you tried to remove the punch tip while depressing the firing pin...from one direction or the other? It might take three hands to accomplish.
Worth a shot, no?
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Post by hughree on Dec 18, 2023 8:24:39 GMT -5
Just a thought. Have you tried to remove the punch tip while depressing the firing pin...from one direction or the other? It might take three hands to accomplish. Worth a shot, no? I, too, thought that might be contributing to the problem and tried to remove it with the firing pin spring compressed to different lengths. No joy. I plan on contacting an honest to goodness gunsmith today or tomorrow to ask if they will take on the problem. I am at the cure it or kill it stage so they really are free to use their imagination. Anything from a drill press to a particle accelerator is fine with me. |
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 548
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Post by Shakey on Dec 18, 2023 20:32:33 GMT -5
I think majorKAP is on the right track. Sounds like, …when the punch broke, it was within the frame and not supported on either side, allowing the spring to push it to the rear and out of alignment with the holes in the slide. Your attempts to drive it out have probably deformed the ends of the pin and perhaps the slide, wedging it in it's misaligned position. I would devise a way to hold the firing pin forward so that it is no longer pushing the pin rearward and use a needle or awl-type tool to try and free the pin it before going back to punching it out. Good luck.
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