Suggestions for removing broken roll pin punch? UPDATED

[hughree]

My Ruger LCP2 Lite Rack .22 began piercing the rims of some .22 ammo last week. The indentation was a small hole and powder blowback could be felt on my face. This particular model has numerous internet reports involving broken titanium firing pins with normal round counts and no history of dry firing. Mine would fall into that category with approximately 2000 rounds and zero dry firing.

I attempted to remove the firing pin for inspection using a 3/32 roll pin punch as demonstrated in several videos on the web. The punch inserted easily enough from the left (as recommended) but the roll pin presented fierce resistance. Continued tapping with a gunsmith hammer caused the roll pin punch to break off flush with the slide after pushing the roll pin just far enough to be removed from the right with needle nosed pliers. Attempting to push broken tip back out from the right does not move it at all, even though the broken tip can be viewed internally from the opposite side of the slide. I have attempted to loosen the broken tip with Kroil and also by freezing the slide. The broken tip will not budge. It may be cursed.

I called Ruger customer service hoping they could either remove the slide or sell me a bare slide to replace the cursed one. Ruger requires that the entire firearm be returned at my cost to determine if a new top end is needed. Customer service says the slide and barrel must be replaced if they cannot remove the punch tip as both are gunsmith fitted to ensure proper headspacing. Bottom line - the costs of repair by Ruger including shipping will make purchasing a new pistol a more feasible option if the broken punch tip cannot be removed.

If I can get the broken tip out, all is well. The slide appears undamaged. The firing pin, still retained by the broken punch, operates freely.

So, do any gunsmiths or machinists out there have any thoughts or recommendations on how to attack the broken punch problem? I would be happy to send to slide for that service as it would be far cheaper and less hassle than sending the complete firearm to Ruger and the additional costs to repair or, more likely, replace the entire top end. I do not have any experience with local gunsmiths around Dallas, Texas and would prefer to send the bare slide to someone who believes he can remove the broken punch tip. I am not opposed to using a wizard or witch doctor if necessary.

Your thoughts and recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Merry Christmas!

Hugh

[x101airborne]

Im no help really other than to say I feel your pain. I bet some colorful language was used at one point in time.

[hughree]

To be honest, not yet. That would engage "Bigger Hammer" mode and I know from experience what that costs.

[bigbrowndog]

Freezing the slide would squeeze the whole thing and make it tighter, you might try judicious use of heat while another hits pin with hammer at same time. Basically hoping for slight enlargement of slide while pin remains cooled. Also, soaking in ATF/acetone 50/50 mix for a day or two and then solidly holding slide in padded vise and tapping on pin. Sometimes keeping solid unmoving hold on object can be difficult, and the least little bit of movement doesn’t transfer impact sufficiently to pin. At times I have sacrificed a hardened drill bit of correct dimension in order to remove a small stubborn pin, cut the flutes off the bit and tap on shank.

Trapr

[gregs]

Drill it out?

[hughree]

I've tried gently but repeatedly tapping it with an undersized punch but it doesn't budge. I placed a soldering iron on the exposed face of the entombed punch and tapped some more. No joy. I went with freezing because I read reports that it helped to remove dovetail sights pressed in by the factory. Hammered like a cobbler but the punch moveth not. The thought of a hardened, flat faced pusher occurred to me and a drill bit shank would be a good tool. But I suspect it is going to require more either more finesse or foot pounds of pressure. All of the hammering has occurred with the slide on a hard plastic bench block on a concrete floor.

I don't have a drill press but think drilling it out may be the most effective if last resort. I'm going to need a machinist for that option.

Thanks for the suggestions. Please keep them coming.

Hugh

[bigbore5]

Pin punches are usually hard. Drilling is difficult.

Heat the slide in an oven at 400° for 30 min. Remove from heat and spray the stuck pin with Kroil. Tap some with a punch

[hughree]

Dec 11, 2023 17:21:17 GMT -5 bigbore5 said:

Pin punches are usually hard. Drilling is difficult.

Heat the slide in an oven at 400° for 30 min. Remove from heat and spray the stuck pin with Kroil. Tap some with a punch

Thanks. It is in the oven now. Welding gloves, Kroil and punch are at the ready. I will report back.

[jeffh]

Hillbilly stubbornness would dictate that I personally defeat that which would attempt to defeat me.

I don't always win, but it's rare that I lose. I've expended ridiculous amounts of time and effort, thanks to this curse.

MY next move would be to try to drill the PIN from the opposite side of the broken punch and then punch the broken punch out from the other side.

Then again, a real machinist with a mill could mount that slide SOLIDLY and very PRECISELY work on that pin with an end mill.

I once broke a 6-48 bottoming tap off in a new scope base hole in an old Mauser barrel. Fussed with it long enough and gave up - used THREE screws on the base. The 6.5x55 doesn't generate enough recoil to make a difference. My gunsmith saw it when I turned it over for some other work only HE could do and extracted the broken tap for the total sum of getting to make fun of me. When I asked how he got it out, he just laughed at me. I'd' rather have paid money, but he exacted a steeper toll - my pride.

Hand it over to someone with the right tools, profess shame, remorse and promise repentance and whoever helps you may take mercy for your admission that real gunsmiths and machinists are worth more than what they're paid. Such a small amount of cash for such a valuable lesson and a chance to start a relationship with someone you really want on your side.

Says the pot to the kettle...

[hughree]

Update - Heat didn't work. Broken punch will. not . move. Pretty sure it is cursed. I'll try again on the next full moon.
Anyone know a machinist or sorcerer who might take on this challenge while I wait for the stars to align? Maybe a magician?

[bigbrowndog]

Have you tried an extra long pin of original diameter and tap from the exit hole

Trapr

[DutchV]

Apply some Kroil and let it sit a day or two before you try again. Use some heat, too.

[hughree]

Dec 11, 2023 21:37:32 GMT -5 bigbrowndog said:

Have you tried an extra long pin of original diameter and tap from the exit hole

Trapr

Yes, without success. It is maddening. I can see the tip of the broken punch from the exit hole on the opposite side. I can insert a 3/32 punch on it and tap but it will not budge. Smaller diameter punches are equally ineffective. I have baked it, used Kroil, and tried tapping on it several times throughout the days hoping the Kroil will suddenly overcome it. Nada. The broken end can't be more than 1/4" long but no amount of tapping will get it to budge. I am wondering if the hole in the slide is not straight and the broken punch tip can't be driven straight out. Something is making the broken tip hang on like it is fused to the slide.

I'm considering Tannerite as a possible fix...

[junebug]

Set it up in a press and use hydraulic straight line pressure with a short pusher pin, something will give.

[woody]

From experience I can only say stop and send it back to the factory or bring it to a competent gunsmith. Messing with it yourself can sometimes snowball into bigger problems. I only say this since I’m no gunsmith.