S&W 29-2 - Here's The Situation...

[Encore64]

When I picked up the Colt Python Wednesday, my LGS Manager showed me an early S&W 29 he'd gotten in a batch.

It's in good shape for the most part. But, did have a mechanical issue. Namely, a broken trigger pivot pin.

The Gun still functions, but occasionally out of time. It also has blemishes in the finish, but no pitting.

So, I turned to JRH. He's the N-Frame Guru. He recommended buying the gun and he'd repair it.

I decided to do just that. In fact, I asked him to restore it to new condition. At his recommendation, including New CCH on the trigger and hammer.

Are there other things I should upgrade? I loose ground quickly on double actions.

I might get him to D&T that third scope base hole under the sight. It's an 8 3/8" gun, so scoped it might make a great hunting gun.

All advice appreciated!!!

[steve]

....
If it were mine, I'd have him cut the barrel to 5"😄

[ezekiel38]

I agree with Steve.

[bigbrowndog]

I vote leave it 8.375”

Trapr

[45MAN]

I LOVE 5" SMITHS BUT THE 8.375 INCHERS ARE CLASSIC LOOKING GUNS. KNOWING SOMEWHAT OF YOUR REVOLVER INVENTORY, YOU HAVE THE 5" RANGE WELL COVERED SO KEEP IT AS IS.

I DO NOT KNOW THE DETAILS BUT IIRC THERE WERE SOME DURABILITY ENHANCEMENTS IN THE 29-3's SO CHECK WITH JACK ON MAYBE MAKING THOSE UPGRADES.

[Encore64]

That's the info I'm looking for and I did speak to Jack last night.

We worked out a preliminary plan, so the gun will ship next week.

The Gun will stay 8 3/8". I'd rather hunt a shorter barrel gun than modify this classic.

The only visible difference will be installing a black front sight insert to replace the red one. I just don't care for red plastic look.

The mods/improvements will be internal and I'll have to decide on grips.

I shot the gun yesterday and accuracy was superb. With the separated trigger pivot pin, the cylinder has to be locked in place by hand due to occasional timing issues. But, didn't want to spend money on a gun with accuracy issues...

[Encore64]

BTW, Serial number puts production of this gun in 1977/78.

Recessed chambers ended in 1982 as did pinned barrels...

[bradshaw]

Nov 4, 2022 17:30:16 GMT -5 Encore64 said:

When I picked up the Colt Python Wednesday, my LGS Manager showed me an early S&W 29 he'd gotten in a batch.

It's in good shape for the most part. But, did have a mechanical issue. Namely, a broken trigger pivot pin.

The Gun still functions, but occasionally out of time. It also has blemishes in the finish, but no pitting.

So, I turned to JRH. He's the N-Frame Guru. He recommended buying the gun and he'd repair it.

I decided to do just that. In fact, I asked him to restore it to new condition. At his recommendation, including New CCH on the trigger and hammer.

Are there other things I should upgrade? I loose ground quickly on double actions.

I might get him to D&T that third scope base hole under the sight. It's an 8 3/8" gun, so scoped it might make a great hunting gun.

All advice appreciated!!!

*****

Correction----hammer & trigger of a Model 29-2 are not “CCH.” The drop forged hammer & trigger are CASE HARDENED, or case carburized, producing a surface very resistant to wear. There is no “color” in the description. Go deeper than merely touch a fine stone to the case carburized surface and you break through to steel too soft to hold single action and too soft to resist abrasion of double action. I’d venture to say thousands of perfectly good S&W hammers & triggers have been ruined by so-called smithing. While S&W beautiful color abides the S&W parts, decorative grace is not the object. Purpose of the treatment is to insure longevity of service.

A proper M-29-2 exhibits the same precise alignment of a pre-suffix M-29. However, we may pronounce it a mistake to eliminate the CYLINDER STOP plunger----held by screw in front of trigger guard. Virtually all Model 29’s which led Smith & Wesson’s charge to the podium in IHMSA silhouette were the M-29-2. Model 57’s produced at the same time exhibit the same profound manufacturing skill.

Jack Huntington brings old time experience to S&W service. In discussions of revolver accuracy, we seldom hear mention of chamber-to-bore alignment, probably because most shooters haven’t the ability to measure it. Much easier to talk about the relatively irrelevant muzzle crown. Chamber-to-bore alignment separates an otherwise damn good revolver from a revolver ready to challenge a rifle. To shave abstraction a hair, by reducing OFFSET from .006” to .001 or .002” brings a revolver which prints 5x5 into 4” @ 100 yards (or meters) down to 5x5 in 2-inches. Doesn’t sound like much----until you’re in a shootoff @ 200 meters.

Smith &wesson proved far beyond doubt it is possible to hold tight CHAMBER-to-BORE ALIGNMENT in manufacturing. With a swing-out cylinder, no less.

In experiencing on the Firing Line the spectrum of S&W quality control during furious years of revolver competition, it is the individual revolver, not suffix numbers, which makes or breaks accuracy.

If I sound touchy on the subject, it is because I am, and have yet to hear how “CCH” increases the strength of a heat treated----through-hardened----chromoly frame (Ruger).
David Bradshaw

[Encore64]

Always feel free to rant your heart content on my posts!!! It doesn't phase me a bit.

Seems mostly terminology differences anyways.

I turned to Jack due to his experience from actually working for S&W.

He had some recommendations and agreed with a few things I wanted. Doesn't get much better than that...

[potatojudge]

From a practical standpoint, I think a DX front sight makes a lot of sense here. I believe they can be contoured to be not ugly.

You can always have a pristine front sight ready to go.

You can pull the front sight while the gun is scoped to prevent damaging it. A little inletting of the inside of the grip and a magnet would hold a blade that could be retrieved with a common screwdriver. BTW, that third hole for a scope is a definite yes. For that matter, you could have the rear of the weaver base milled into a fixed sight (with a sight channel running the length of the base) so that QD rings would allow for scope removal and iron usage.

Little dings, nicks, and small abrasions that are really just shiny spots in the matte blueing tend to pull my attention. The more I can eliminate those the better.

[oddshooter]

I want to thank you, Encore, for not cutting that barrel.

I'm prejudiced. I like long barrels and there doesn't seem to be very many of them.

I can handle a lot of changes to a barrel, but doing irreparable damage to a long barrel seems like sacrilege.
There are lots of 4", 5", and 6" barrels out there. Watching something I want, turned into something I don't, is difficult.
Why take that 8 3/8" and permanently alter it? You can never put that lost length back for those of us who love it.

I'm a junky for handloading; I just really enjoy it. Watching groups shrink as I modify my recipe just gets my blood flowing and my mind giggling like a little girl. Long barrels make that easier for me with their long sight radius. Also, I can engage in handloading year around and daily right here at home. Testing those handloads is done at a bench with a rest where the long barrel weight is irrelevant except to tame recoil.
Which I mention only to say I don't walk around in the woods carrying a long range shooter in a holster a lot of times.

One of my favorite shooting activities is spending hours trying to squeeze out some tiny little groups at a solid bench rest from my load recipes; then move over to ringing steel at distance for the rush I get from my ears. I love the barrel heavy shooters and the balance now just seems perfect.

But living in a free country isn't easy. Freedom can be messy.
So I accept that each man and woman gets to pick where they spend their hard-earned money and how.

As long as you enjoy it, you have made a wise decision.


Prescut

[Encore64]

Well, turned out to be a simple plan. Gun ships to Jack today.

Gun will be repaired and slicked up internally. Fully refinished to it's factory glory, D&T for a scope mount and a black insert for the front sight.

While this is being done, the hunt for grips will begin...

[Encore64]

Heard from Jack this week. The repairs, refurbish and mods are almost finished on this gun.

Hammer and Trigger are back from Turnbull after having been Color Case Hardened.

Gun is reassembled and only thing pending is to D&T for a scope base.

Hope to have it back in hand and on the bench soon...

[bradshaw]

Nov 4, 2022 17:30:16 GMT -5 Encore64 said:

When I picked up the Colt Python Wednesday, my LGS Manager showed me an early S&W 29 he'd gotten in a batch.

It's in good shape for the most part. But, did have a mechanical issue. Namely, a broken trigger pivot pin.

The Gun still functions, but occasionally out of time. It also has blemishes in the finish, but no pitting.

So, I turned to JRH. He's the N-Frame Guru. He recommended buying the gun and he'd repair it.

I decided to do just that. In fact, I asked him to restore it to new condition. At his recommendation, including New CCH on the trigger and hammer.

Are there other things I should upgrade? I loose ground quickly on double actions.

I might get him to D&T that third scope base hole under the sight. It's an 8 3/8" gun, so scoped it might make a great hunting gun.

All advice appreciated!!!

*****

Huey.... since you now own this revolver, let’s hope that the dislodged or broken trigger pin, and the mish-mash bluing are not indicative of a serious manufacturing defect, namely misalignment of barrel-to-frame or chamber-to-bore misalignment.

Case Hardening vs CCH
Traditional S&W hammers & triggers are machined from drop forgings, with the same carbon steel used for blued or nickeled, and on stainless steel revolvers. As machined, the hammer & trigger are too soft for single or double action service. Thus, the parts are case hardened, which makes for a very thin, hard surface. Nobody at Smith & Wesson would ever call the process “Color Case Hardening,” or “CCH.”

Fully expect you know the difference. For Singleactions, it helps to distinguish between functional (Case Hardening) and decorative (CCH) treatments.
David Bradshaw

[Encore64]

Jack suspected the broken pivot pin was someone trying to force a side plate back on. Said he'd seen the same thing done any number of times.

I also asked Jack about the process used on the Hammer and Trigger. He said it was CCH by Turnbull and explained the difference in the two.

As far as terminology used at S&W, you'd know better than me. But, for this project, I'll defer to Jack and Doug Turnbull's knowledge.

Hope to provide a range report in a few weeks...