|
Post by Longhunter1750 on Oct 18, 2022 11:16:30 GMT -5
What is the most common cause for a cylinder to be out of time.
|
|
|
Post by taffin on Oct 18, 2022 11:41:13 GMT -5
SHOOTER MIS-HANDLING
|
|
|
Post by potatojudge on Oct 18, 2022 12:56:31 GMT -5
Do you mean for it to become out of time, or what parts are incorrect for the timing to be bad?
|
|
|
Post by Longhunter1750 on Oct 18, 2022 13:23:19 GMT -5
Do you mean for it to become out of time, or what parts are incorrect for the timing to be bad? Yes, this is what I meant.
|
|
rvolvr
.30 Stingray
Posts: 291
|
Post by rvolvr on Oct 20, 2022 11:39:35 GMT -5
Do you mean for it to become out of time, or what parts are incorrect for the timing to be bad? Yes, this is what I meant. Reading comprehension, son. Reading comprehension.
|
|
|
Post by potatojudge on Oct 20, 2022 12:18:07 GMT -5
For becoming out of time, as Taffin said mishandling and I would add poor gunsmithing are probably the top culprits.
For wearing into being out of time, it greatly depends on the design of the revolver. The old Colt double actions are a good example of wear causing timing issues but they're night and day different than SA guns because of their rebound lever and bolt leg voodoo. With Ruger, that's hardly a thing AFAIK.
Also depends on what part of timing you're referring to. In order: Start cocking the hammer bolt drops out of cylinder notch pawl rises and begins turning cylinder via ratchet bolt drops somewhere during this in a lot of NM Rugers second leg on the pawl catches next ratchet tooth and brings cylinder around hopefully to full lockup bolt drops into leade then locks into cylinder notch, hopefully without popping out or spinning by hammer notch catches trigger to stay cocked
Out of time can be a lot of things. it can mean the cylinder turns before the bolt drops. it can mean the pawl catches the ratchet improperly, or doesn't push the cylinder all the way around to lockup. It can mean the bolt pops up to engage the cylinder notch late and allows the cylinder to throw by. It can mean the bolt is loose and bounces out of the cylinder notch on firing. Not a comprehensive list, but the gist.
So the specifics of what is happening determines how the gun is out of time.
|
|
|
Post by squawberryman on Nov 1, 2022 19:05:47 GMT -5
What I do know is it'll take the paint off the hood of your truck
|
|
jeffh
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,730
|
Post by jeffh on Nov 1, 2022 21:54:33 GMT -5
The most serious and most frequent timing problem I have ever had with any revolver has been a difference in the time between when one was available and when I had the cash.
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on Nov 8, 2022 7:41:13 GMT -5
What is the most common cause for a cylinder to be out of time. ***** As you know, TIMING is manufacturer terminology for the INDEXING SEQUENCE of a revolver cylinder. Or, in the case of a repeating mechanism, the MECHANICAL SEQUENCE necessary to feed, chamber, and fire ammunition----such as the timing of a lever action or semi-auto. As an isolated word, “timing” most often implies late timing, whence hammer reaches full cock, or trigger cock, before a chamber indexes. My uneducated guess points to manufacturing or assembly as the leading cause of “timing.” I would rank mishandling as #2, and wear as cause #3. Throw-byTHROW-BY is another industry term, and means one thing----the cylinder continues to rotate beyond CHAMBER INDEX. Causes vary from poor manufacturing, poor assembly, gradou in lockwork, broken spring or other broken part. Only in the broader abstract, can throw-by be considered an aspect of timing. Thousands of Rugers and other revolvers have been assembled with late timing. Usually it has no negative effect, as citrifugal force carries the chamber to battery (lockup). Under such conditions, slow cocking may fail to index chamber. Failure to index: another causeColt Peacemaker lockwork and its copies make it possible to load, then cock the revolver----without indexing the chamber. Single actions are designed for best reliability when cocked from hammer-down. It is possible to short-circuit indexing when pulling hammer from half-cock to full cock. This timing issue is nearly impossible with Bill Ruger’s New Model (transfer bar) lockwork, introduced 100 years after Colt’s 1873 Single Action Army. And , yes, it is the novice who most often violates the Manual of Arms. After loading a Peacemaker-type single action, the shooter may inadvertently advance the cylinder ever-so-slightly, causing failure to index. The revolver fires, shaving lead or jacket. The bullet muscles its way down the barrel, but its accuracy has had the radish. If this happens on a Freedom Arms M-83, or other minimal-gap revolver, bullet material may wedge cylinder against rotation. David Bradshaw.
|
|
|
Post by 45dragoon on Nov 8, 2022 10:00:32 GMT -5
It may help some to hear the steps as one "adjusts" the timing in a Colt type SA.
Make sure the revolver is unloaded of course.
Understand, the hammer and trigger installed in your SA determines the length of the cycle (from hammer down to full cock). That is the "time-line" that all the action sequence has to be completed.
Step one is to check the hand length. The hand is the correct length when the bolt engages the cyl locking notch simultaneously with the full cock notch being reached. Drag a finger on the cylinder (to keep the hand engaged with the cyl ratchet) while checking. If the cyl locks just before full cock, the hand is too long. Likewise if the cylinder locks just after full cock, the hand is too short. After shortening or stretching the hand to achieve a simultaneous engagement you can go to the next step.
Step two concerns "bolt drop". If the cylinder has "approaches" (leads) for the locking notches, the bolt should drop onto the cylinder within the approach. If the bolt drops on the edge of the locking notch, it is late and may move material into the notch eventually preventing lockup. This situation typically allows throw-by as well. Correct this situation by removing material at the end of the left bolt arm ( which causes the arm to "drop" off the hammer cam sooner). If the bolt is dropping before the approache it is early. The fix for this situation is a new bolt.
That is a "nutshell" explanation of how to check for correct timing and corrective action.
Installing new parts is more involved as they are "over sized " so they can be fitted to your particular revolver.
Hope this helps.
Mike
|
|