woody
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,116
|
Post by woody on Dec 13, 2020 7:53:15 GMT -5
Anyone have a SR1911 in 10mm? I have A few other 10’s a Delta Elite and a Glock I’m thinking of getting a Ruger. Seems to be a nice gun. Also what is everyone’s expirence with the10mm. I’ve shot a few deer over the years with the Delta Elite. I really Don’t care for my Glock. It’s a pretty big bulky gun.
As a kid I always wanted a Delta Elite but they were hard to find when they first came out. I ended Up with a Colt Double Eagle. Hated it and sent it down the road. Wish I had It back just for what they bring for prices now
|
|
|
Post by x101airborne on Dec 13, 2020 14:01:04 GMT -5
In 10mm I have a Kimber TLE / RL2 Custom and a Rock Island. Both are great 1911 style firearms, the Kimber being the slightly better of the two. The kimber is a touch more accurate, better trigger and tritium sights. The Rock Island is a good all around handgun but the trigger on it is mushy and hard to get the feel of. The kimber will feed empty cases from the magazine easily.
|
|
|
Post by rjm52 on Dec 14, 2020 8:55:38 GMT -5
Stayed away from the 10mm but finally took the plunge about four years ago...and like everything else "gun" I do jumped in with both feet... Have not hunted with one however as where I hunt, Pennsylvania, they don't allow semis...
Have shot one Ruger 10mm and it was an excellent shooter, especially for the price. Also had a RIA TAC II Combat Commander size gun. As accurate as guns costing three times as much and built solid as a BRICK. I only sold it because I didn't like the balance. They use a bull barrel in their 10mms and it makes the gun very nose heavy. But it was 100% reliable and very accurate.
Was down at one of the biggest gun shops in NE last Thursday...haven't been there since last January due to the virus. They had a LNIB Kimber Stainless Target Long Slide with 6" barrel on the used rack for $750.00...so it is now on lay-a-way.
I've settled on two loads for my 10mms. 155-165 grain bullets for target work and defense and a 200 grain hardcast for a deep penetrating load. Both use Longshot powder.
As to Glock 10mm...also don't care for them. They impart a lot of recoil to the wrist. Had a 20/3, 29SF/3 and a 40 6". The 20 and 29 just beat the crap out of me, especially the trigger finger. I still have the 40 but much prefer shooting it with the .357 SIG barrel...
Great round....Bob
|
|
|
Post by bigbore5 on Dec 20, 2020 21:38:05 GMT -5
Carried a custom 10mm 1911 for awhile after I got out of the service when I worked in the alphabet soup. Will help a terrorist get his date with the virgins pronto but you have to be picky about powder used. The muzzle flash wrecks night vision. Also it doesn't need loaded balls to the wall. Good full power loads with flash suppressed powder are available from several makers. I liked the 180 jhp for regular carry, but we also had Glaser pf available for situations where over penetration could have been an issue or maximum lethality was desired and body armor was unlikely. Since retirement from government, I pack a 357 snub edc, but keep a few tuned Delta Elites around. Truck, car, office, bedroom, tac bag,etc. Best fighting semiautomatic round there is if you train thoroughly for the recoil recovery
|
|
|
Post by sixshot on Dec 21, 2020 0:13:54 GMT -5
Interesting that this 10mm topic came up, I just bought a new 10mm Kimber Eclipse. I'm not much of a semi auto guy but I just wanted one because. Right at the last minute I tried to change my order & get the Kimber 6" Longslide but it was too late. Anyway, I've had the gun for 3 days now & had lots of failures to feed. The loads will drop in my gauge, they will drop right in my barrel doing the "plunk" test, length is 1.250" oal, for the most part. I've moved it around a little bit. Crimp has been changed a bit, but they drop right in the barrel. I've tried a 180 gr TC cast bullet, a 155 gr Hornady XTP, a Hornady 200 gr XTP, no luck!! The only bullet that will SOMETIMES feed is my 160 gr cast RN Ballisticast bullet. So, I'm down to the feed ramp as the culprit, what say you semi experts? I don't have any factory ammo but these bullets should chamber. When I single load them they are fine but it's frustrating when this new Kimber is jamming almost every round. The loads "almost" feed, but not quite. Again, the 160 gr RN bullets are almost 100%. None of the bullets are deforming, I'm a little ticked off. My Kimber 45 Gold Match shoots anything I put in it.
Dick
|
|
|
Post by nolongcolt on Dec 21, 2020 0:41:52 GMT -5
I had the Ruger for a time, good pistol ran fine. Something else came along and the Ruger went down the road, but a good pistol for sure.
|
|
nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,042
|
Post by nicholst55 on Dec 21, 2020 4:14:10 GMT -5
The early Ruger 10mms had a tendency to shear the barrel lugs/feet off with extended use with full-power 10mm loads. There is one long thread on the Ruger forum about this very subject. Ruger seems to have sorted that problem out now, but it doesn't leave me with a warm fuzzy. They also wouldn't feed, and Ruger's response was to keep shooting it. 'It takes 500 rounds to fully break in.' I could maybe believe that a tightly fitted semi-custom of full custom 1911 takes 500 rounds to break in, but not a production line pistol. Ruger eventually replaced the pistol in the thread that I mentioned, and the owner seems to be happy now.
Add to that the fact that Ruger at least initially didn't passivate their frames and slides during production and they subsequently rust like a carbon-steel gun, it leaves me less than inclined to buy one of their 1911s. But, that's just me.
|
|
|
Post by zeus on Dec 21, 2020 4:21:15 GMT -5
Interesting that this 10mm topic came up, I just bought a new 10mm Kimber Eclipse. I'm not much of a semi auto guy but I just wanted one because. Right at the last minute I tried to change my order & get the Kimber 6" Longslide but it was too late. Anyway, I've had the gun for 3 days now & had lots of failures to feed. The loads will drop in my gauge, they will drop right in my barrel doing the "plunk" test, length is 1.250" oal, for the most part. I've moved it around a little bit. Crimp has been changed a bit, but they drop right in the barrel. I've tried a 180 gr TC cast bullet, a 155 gr Hornady XTP, a Hornady 200 gr XTP, no luck!! The only bullet that will SOMETIMES feed is my 160 gr cast RN Ballisticast bullet. So, I'm down to the feed ramp as the culprit, what say you semi experts? I don't have any factory ammo but these bullets should chamber. When I single load them they are fine but it's frustrating when this new Kimber is jamming almost every round. The loads "almost" feed, but not quite. Again, the 160 gr RN bullets are almost 100%. None of the bullets are deforming, I'm a little ticked off. My Kimber 45 Gold Match shoots anything I put in it. Dick Factory mag? If so, try some others if you can. I found years ago I could save a lot of misery if I had checked mag first on some 1911 failures I was having. After that, feed ramp.
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on Dec 21, 2020 8:14:59 GMT -5
My relatively early Colt Delta Elite fed smooth from the first magazine, various factory and handloads with Hornady, Sierra, and then Nosler. Also, the original shark-tooth Norma hollow points. It begged to see action in IHMSA silhouette, which implies exceptional out-of-box accuracy. There is nothing to be gained by “tuning” a factory pistol that performs so slick. Another factory Delta seemed equally ready. Installed a Pachmayr rubberized tang safety and mainspring housing for comfort. The pistol prints a bit high @ 50 meters and high enough on the 100 meter pig to level the sights belly-line of the front leg. Minor chip of front sight for turkeys @ 164 yards, with a thicker chip of front sight for the ram @ 200. Flatter trajectory than .45 ACP for sure, with a snappier “clink” @ 200.
I do not try to turn the 10mm Auto into a Top Fuel Funny Car. The 10mm Auto is a cartridge of high INTRINSIC ACCURACY. Moreso, it seems, than the .40 S&W. The Delta feeds .40 S&W and fires them, “headspacing” on the extractor, with John Browning’s INERTIA FIRING PIN insuring discharge. Some .40 S&W hasn’t the oomph to fully cycle, but that’s not the gun’s fault.
I don’t buy this jive that a gun’s takes time to be break in. Leastwise, not more than a magazine or two. The idea an auto pistol which jams should be shot two hundred rounds before arriving at reliable suggests the gun came out of the womb wrong. As with a Mauser bolt action or old lever action, the slide of an auto based on Browning's concept pushes a cartridge from the magazine, which cartridge rim glides up the STANDING BREECH. If the face of the standing breech is rough it may impede rise of the cartridge. As the slide continues forward the cartridge cramps at an angle----instead of lifting more in line with bore axis.
There are other details of operation. John Browning designed his pistol so that, in battery the BARREL FEED RAMP is slightly forward the FRAME FEED RAMP. Prevents bullet catching on lip of the BARREL FEED RAMP. Details neglected in manufacture & assembly may cause hesitation in cycling. Causing cartridge to jump or tilt out-of-alignment. The slide accelerates as it returns to battery. I would not expect shooting to correct these diseases, any more than a hernia corrects itself. David Bradshaw
|
|
|
Post by Ken O'Neill on Dec 21, 2020 8:23:20 GMT -5
Sixshot, be sure the 1911 is well lubricated.
|
|
|
Post by webber on Dec 21, 2020 8:49:22 GMT -5
I have Ruger 1911 10MM. Like it real well. Feeds with no problems. Currently I use a 200 grain cast with no problems. I like the 200 grain XTP also. I had a Kimber Campguard 10 that hung up often.
|
|
|
Post by seminolewind on Dec 21, 2020 9:33:58 GMT -5
So, I'm down to the feed ramp as the culprit, what say you semi experts? Dick I am not a semi expert but I do have a Kimber 10mm that gave me problems similar to what you have described. My problem was solved by tuning the amount of tension the extractor placed on the rim of a cartridge. Too much tension and the rim can't slide up that last fraction of an inch to let the slide go completely into battery. The extractor can be bent slightly outwards to adjust the tension. While you are working on the extractor, slightly file and polish the bottom corner of the extractor hook. This will let the cartridge rim slide under the extractor hook more smoothly. There are better descriptions than mine out there, but the extractor is a main culprit in your kind of 1911 malfunctions.
|
|
jgt
.327 Meteor
Enter your message here...
Posts: 782
|
Post by jgt on Dec 21, 2020 10:14:03 GMT -5
I agree with the seminolewind and also check for copper wipe on the slide stop where it is in close proximity with the magazine. It could be rubbing on the bullet when it is being stripped out of the magazine.
|
|
|
Post by sixshot on Dec 21, 2020 13:46:05 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I bought an extra Wilson mag as a spare & it does the same thing as the Kimber mag. Most times with a slight nudge on the back of the slide the gun goes into battery. Still, this bugs me more than a little bit with a new, quality gun. I've owned 4 Kimbers & this is the first one that's ever made a boo boo on me. The mention of the rough breech face is a very real possibility though. Thanks! Still wishing I would had bought the Long slide.
Dick
|
|
nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,042
|
Post by nicholst55 on Dec 21, 2020 15:08:30 GMT -5
|
|