|
|
Post by Chuck Perry on Sept 22, 2020 17:50:23 GMT -5
357 convertible model. Neither cylinder indexes correctly 100%. What occasionally happens is that, while cocking, the hammer will stop and lock about 3/4 of the way. If I ease it forward a bit and then try again it will fully cock. Also, sometimes the cylinder will lock up incorrectly with the chamber not centered with the bore. Anything simple that I can check and fix, or should I just contact Ruger?
|
|
|
|
Post by leadhound on Sept 23, 2020 15:41:21 GMT -5
If no work has been done, would recommend returning to Ruger.
Unless you are savvy at taking them apart.
|
|
|
|
Post by cas on Sept 23, 2020 17:25:01 GMT -5
First simple thing to check is that the cylinder pin is in all the way, and that the spring plunger on the end of it it pushing the transfer bar out enough to clear the firing pin as it raises.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Perry on Sept 23, 2020 17:27:10 GMT -5
The spring plunger in the cylinder pin seems pretty weak. Is the spring replaceable?
|
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on Sept 23, 2020 19:33:16 GMT -5
Chuck Perry..... leadhound and cas provide sage advice. Meanwhile, this shooter stumbles on your description: “....cylinder will lock up incorrectly with the chamber not centered with the bore.”
A chamber only “locks up” to align with the bore when the CYLINDER LATCH engages the STOP NOTCH on the opposite side of the cylinder. Either the cylinder is latched or it is not. Severe misalignment between CHAMBER and BORE at lockup means the bolt pattern is wrong----a manufacturing defect. (Or, center of cylinder pin-to-chamber doesn’t match cylinder pin-to-bore.)
At this point it benefits a grasp of the New Model Ruger to learn function of a spring-loaded rod in the hammer. As you cock the revolver, the HAMMER PLUNGER pushes a leg on the CYLINDER LATCH, causing the latch to drop from locking cylinder rotation. This unlocks the cylinder to rotate. As you continue to cock, the PAWL rises from the STANDING BREECH to rotate cylinder.
TIMING of a revolver’s LOCKWORK is critical to correct operation.
As cas suggests, and you seem to confirm, BASE PIN plunger, which pushes the TRANSFER BAR rearward, may not be doing its job. This would cause transfer bar to stop against FIRING PIN to prevent the hammer from reaching FULL COCK.
As leadhound suggests, it is time for outside knowledge. If you can’t find local, call Ruger Customer Service in Newport, New Hampshire.
David Bradshaw
|
|
|
|
Post by bradshaw on Sept 24, 2020 6:04:13 GMT -5
357 convertible model. Neither cylinder indexes correctly 100%. What occasionally happens is that, while cocking, the hammer will stop and lock about 3/4 of the way. If I ease it forward a bit and then try again it will fully cock. Also, sometimes the cylinder will lock up incorrectly with the chamber not centered with the bore. Anything simple that I can check and fix, or should I just contact Ruger? ****** Let’s take it from the top: * Is this Ruger New Model Blackhawk a NEW revolver? * The “occasionally happens” suggests HAMMER PLUNGER may be sticking----usually the result of a slightly bent rod, metal chip, or broken PLUNGER SPRING, or (rarely) rust. David Bradshaw |
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Perry on Sept 24, 2020 6:35:30 GMT -5
It is not a new revolver. This one had been sent back to Ruger to have the transfer bar safety installed, so I believe that makes it an "Old"? Let me add clarity to the problem description. The cylinder does not lock up in between chambers. The hammer will come to full cock, but the cylinder is stopped between chambers. At this point the cylinder can be rotated in either direction. Some resistance is felt while doing this. If rotated to the right it reaches a point where it stops and will go no further. If rotated to the left it will eventually engage the cylinder latch and lock into place. Something else I've noticed is that the cylinder seems to occasionally skip over a chamber. This only occurs while rapidly cocking and dry firing the revolver. The revolver is in good condition and, externally, rust free.   |
|
|
|
Post by contender on Sept 24, 2020 8:35:35 GMT -5
What you have is an OM Ruger,, (meaning it used to have the lockwork that would allow the hammer to rest upon the firing pin at rest. Ruger designed a "safety conversion" for these guns after an idiot mis-handled a OM, shot himself, then sued Ruger.)
I collect OM Rugers.
I have had several OM's that were sent back to the factory & received that safety conversion. I reversed every one of them I own. I have seen that safety conversion set of parts create issues in smooth, proper function. I dislike those parts in an OM. And they are not the same parts as installed in the NM Rugers.
If it were my gun, I'd get a proper set of OM parts & re-convert that fine old sixgun,, and I'd just about bet all the problems would go away.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Perry on Sept 24, 2020 9:46:47 GMT -5
I believe I have the original parts. Ruger returned them with the gun.
|
|
|
|
Post by harveylogan on Sept 24, 2020 10:49:00 GMT -5
This sounds like a Pawl issue, and I’m thinking it is probably the pawl spring & plunger.
Bent Spring, Goo, Rust, Backwards, etc....
Make sure the gun is Unloaded, remove the Cylinder.
Remove Grips, Cock, and capture the hammer spring.
5 screws remove grip frame and wala there top left is the little hole for the Pawl Spring & Plunger, carefully pull it out check for cleanliness,.
Clean hole good, lightly oil PS&P, re-install. Plunger first followed by Spring.
|
|
