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Post by sixshot on Jul 7, 2016 20:57:09 GMT -5
Something that I keep forgetting to remind everyone about when powder coating their bullets. We all know that when you anneal your bullets in the toaster oven you end up with a bullet that's some what soft so the velocity is limited or you get "skidding" or leading if you keep pushing top end velocity. The way around this if you have it is to shoot straight linotype alloy, it won't react to heat treating, it stays the same BHN, so if you have 22 BHN when you powder coat & heat treat you still have a 22 BHN when you take it out of the oven. Just thought I would share this with those of you having a leading or skidding problem.
It does make for a more expensive bullet but for those of you who have a good supply (I do) its a good way to get top end velocity & still powder coat.
Dick
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Post by contender on Jul 7, 2016 22:09:05 GMT -5
Good info!
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ter548
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 41 
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Post by ter548 on Jul 7, 2016 22:47:09 GMT -5
Are you talking handgun or rifle velocity ?
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JSilva
.30 Stingray
Posts: 184
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Post by JSilva on Jul 8, 2016 4:23:51 GMT -5
Is it possible to pull your bullets straight from the powder coating oven and dump into water?
I only ask because my slugs plop out around fairly hot and the curing temp is also moderately hot @ 400 degrees.
I need to Pc some more .50's so maybe I'll try it myself just for the sake of knowing.
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Post by bradshaw on Jul 8, 2016 10:48:04 GMT -5
Something that I keep forgetting to remind everyone about when powder coating their bullets. We all know that when you anneal your bullets in the toaster oven you end up with a bullet that's some what soft so the velocity is limited or you get "skidding" or leading if you keep pushing top end velocity. The way around this if you have it is to shoot straight linotype alloy, it won't react to heat treating, it stays the same BHN, so if you have 22 BHN when you powder coat & heat treat you still have a 22 BHN when you take it out of the oven. Just thought I would share this with those of you having a leading or skidding problem. It does make for a more expensive bullet but for those of you who have a good supply (I do) its a good way to get top end velocity & still powder coat. Dick Dick.... thanks to my introduction to Powder Coat cast bullets, through you and Tank, in my limited experience the expansion potential puts the powder coat bullet in its own category. Expansion without leading from a cast bullet is no more a niche than deer hunting itself. After all, deer are big game in the United States. While Elk and specifically moose are the largest deer, they represent but a fraction of American deer hunting. Lee soon may post Volume 99 (XCIX), Powder Coat part 4, which presents accuracy with velocity from some of Tank Hoover's cast PC bullets. Vol. 99 centers on LBT cast .44s fed through my Freedom Arms M83 .44 Mag barreled by Jim Stroh with a 10-inch Shilen. The .429-groove Shilen is button rifled with 1:16" RH twist. Button rifling is shallower than my o ld S&W's and Rugers with broached rifling. One might expect a twist faster than the industry standard 1:20, in conjunction with the reduced land height of button rifling, to cause the annealed PC bullet to skid. The few bullets recovered suggest no such skidding and, as always, ACCURACY is the final arbiter. Skidding and accuracy are not playmates. I further suspect that a PC LFN may mimic the George Foreman punch a WFN in large soft skin game. However, that is not my interest. My interest intersects the most efficient delivery of power for general maintenance, and my experience tells me a bit of dynamism inside the animal gets work done without Rocks & Dynamite. Add me to your short list of marksmen impressed with Powder Coat. David Bradshaw |
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Post by sixshot on Jul 8, 2016 13:54:22 GMT -5
ter548, its for either handgun or rifle velocity. If you are having a problem it most likely will be from skidding & that can be overcome by using straight linotype or some other alloy that doesn't react to heat treating. There are a few other commercial alloys being sold that don't heat treat. Wheel weights contain antimony & a trace of Arsenic & that's why it will react to heat treating, you can take WW's up or down in hardness, not so with Linotype.
Jsilva, yes you can water quench right from the toaster oven but the gain isn't very much because you are dropping from an oven that's 400 degrees as opposed to a bullet mould that's 700+, makes a difference. You'll just have to try it & see. The best way to experiment is to put a GC on & then when you take it out of the water pop the GC off & check the hardness.
David, looking forward to the Lee information & the shooting from your fine revolvers. If they somehow are getting neglected you need to hook up with the Tank man Hoover & journey out this way next spring for Rock Chucks, Badgers, Ground Squirrels, Jackrabbits & Utah fishermen! We could powder coat some & tar & feather the others!
Note: I don't shoot straight Linotype but for the rifle shooter who might experience skidding or the handgun shooter who wants top end velocity this is an answer to up the speed with powder coated bullets, hope this helps. I'm sure when Fermin see's "Jackrabbits" he'll be buying a plane ticket, ha ha ha!
Dick
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jul 8, 2016 13:56:16 GMT -5
ter548, its for either handgun or rifle velocity. If you are having a problem it most likely will be from skidding & that can be overcome by using straight linotype or some other alloy that doesn't react to heat treating. There are a few other commercial alloys being sold that don't heat treat. Wheel weights contain antimony & a trace of Arsenic & that's why it will react to heat treating, you can take WW's up or down in hardness, not so with Linotype. Jsilva, yes you can water quench right from the toaster oven but the gain isn't very much because you are dropping from an oven that's 400 degrees as opposed to a bullet mould that's 700+, makes a difference. You'll just have to try it & see. The best way to experiment is to put a GC on & then when you take it out of the water pop the GC off & check the hardness. David, looking forward to the Lee information & the shooting from your fine revolvers. If they somehow are getting neglected you need to hook up with the Tank man Hoover & journey out this way next spring for Rock Chucks, Badgers, Ground Squirrels, Jackrabbits & Utah fishermen! We could powder coat some & tar & feather the others! Dick Did you say Jackrabbits??? |
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Post by BigBore44 on Jul 8, 2016 14:23:54 GMT -5
Wabbits, Jack Wabbits  Dick Thank you for the good info. Always appreciate good solid info to keep improving the shooting. Thanks Ray BigBore44 |
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gman50
.30 Stingray
Posts: 191
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Post by gman50 on Jul 8, 2016 17:02:44 GMT -5
I'm going to have to take the time to mine some of the bullets I shot last week while running them through my Oehler 35P. I was shooting the NOE 45-276 Keith bullet powder coated seated on top of 20.0 grains of 4227. Not rocks and dynamite as Mr. Bradshaw would say but they averaged 1077 fps from my 7.5" Bisley. Also checked some NOE 35-200 moving at an average of 2215 from a 35 Remington rifle. Accuracy was there so I guess there is no problem. I was asking this question awhile back for loading the 44 magnum. My bullets after baking tend to measure 11-12 BHN. My 70/30 mix is 13 BHN.
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Post by sixshot on Jul 8, 2016 18:40:34 GMT -5
Most of the time with those alloys you're not going to get leading but some might get some skidding with their powder coated bullets. The powder coating adds an extra layer of protection to the cast slug that lets you get more velocity with a soft alloy, that's the beauty of it. Its like a free velocity gain with a soft bullet which adds up to better performance on game down range. Deer, elk, moose, bear & hogs hate it & shooters love it because they can wind down their loads a bit & still get big game performance with their powder coated bullets, how sweet is that!
Dick
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