Aggie01
.375 Atomic
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Posts: 1,779
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Post by Aggie01 on Sept 14, 2009 10:23:28 GMT -5
I have a no name brassie I'm trying to put on my ROA. The two screw holes right behind the trigger guard aren't quite far enough apart. I need to make them into slots, what's a good way to go about it?
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Post by rep1954 on Sept 14, 2009 11:02:14 GMT -5
I guess it all matters just how far they got to move over. If it's just a matter of them rubbing a little I would open the holes in the frame from the side that seats against the cylinder frame. I would first open the hole on a taper using a small round file, leaving the hole at the screwhead counterbore it's original size and see if that works. Beyound that one would need to know how far the holes are off and what equipment you have availabe to you.
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Post by Markbo on Sept 14, 2009 17:34:08 GMT -5
I got two words for you:
Dremel
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cj3a
.30 Stingray
Posts: 403
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Post by cj3a on Sept 14, 2009 20:18:08 GMT -5
Bridgeport and a endmill.
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Post by edwardyoung on Sept 14, 2009 22:05:29 GMT -5
If the 'ears' aren't quite as wide as the cylinder frame, maybe you could spread them, instead of enlarging the holes to get the holes right.
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Aggie01
.375 Atomic
max
Posts: 1,779
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Post by Aggie01 on Sept 14, 2009 23:18:28 GMT -5
rep1954 & Markbo FTW wallered at an angle with a craftsman cut out saw (think rotozip but craftsman) Note - changed thread title. I know you guys are heavy on the visual, so heres a bad pic of current progress: I have wanted a ROA with honest blue wear and a brass grip frame for a lil while, but I've been biding my time. Caught the grip frame on GB on a $125 BIN (Not Ruger or Caravelle, judging by pics of the Caravelle frames. This is the ROA that forum member Mark Terry helped me track down. It's a '73 vintage - had an alloy GF and a narrow trigger.
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carl
.327 Meteor
Posts: 546
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Post by carl on Sept 15, 2009 6:50:53 GMT -5
I've also "battled" with fitting a brassie. One was even a Ruger example! I simply hogged out the holes a bit and tried not to mess up the screw head "seats".
Carl
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