JSilva
.30 Stingray
Posts: 184 
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Post by JSilva on Mar 6, 2016 2:27:55 GMT -5
After reading all the great reviews on powder coating, I set to collecting the goodies I'd need to get things rolling. I purchased a cheap Wally World toaster oven and after tumbling my lead I laid them out on a defunct silicone baking mat at 400 degrees.  . Problem is that my bullets are melting into sad puddles! The baking mat was a great idea but I think I'll see what's up with that non stick foil. So I guess you get what you pay for with a cheap toaster oven. Tomorrow I'll post some pictures of my set up. I'm thinking that my oven is simply not insulated enough to minimize the time the element is firing. I'll try lowering the temp to 300 or so and slide a couple alumina fire bricks above the element act as heat baffles. We'll see how that works. Best case is my goal is achieved. Worst case I guess I melt something I shouldn't have. ~Justin |
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Post by bulasteve on Mar 6, 2016 9:06:25 GMT -5
Ouch ! Sounds like you are onto a solution though, luck.
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jsh
.327 Meteor
Posts: 884
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Post by jsh on Mar 6, 2016 10:35:30 GMT -5
If your bullets are melting, it is way over on temp or it's not lead. I don't think Linotype melts at 400.
FYI, I drilled a hole in mine and put a thermometer to get a true temp. This would be another good use for a PID.
Jeff
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,048
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Post by nicholst55 on Mar 6, 2016 13:21:09 GMT -5
Buy a $10 oven thermometer and see how close to reality your oven's heat control runs at, and adjust accordingly.
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JSilva
.30 Stingray
Posts: 184
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Post by JSilva on Mar 6, 2016 17:03:40 GMT -5
I found my firebricks and placed them around the perimeter of the oven.  It seems to work better. I also adjusted the temp down to 300 on the dial. I definitely noticed a reduction in element activation frequency and time active. Here's what I wound up with  I'm getting close ... Next I'll try and figure out why I get these little wings  . ~Justin |
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f3
.30 Stingray
Posts: 412
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Post by f3 on Mar 6, 2016 18:04:06 GMT -5
The toaster oven is definitely over 400 degrees. Probably closer to 470. Also shake off the excess powder coat. If you have some sort of screen it helps to shake it off. The first bullets I coated ended up with big flat spots from not shaking the excess off. The fins look like the mold might not be closing completely. Search Tank on here he has provided a wealth of information.
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Post by boatswainsmate on Mar 6, 2016 19:47:35 GMT -5
What type of alloy are using? The bullet doesn't look completely filled out. Do you have any tining inside the mould cavities? Are using a convection oven?
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JSilva
.30 Stingray
Posts: 184
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Post by JSilva on Mar 6, 2016 21:18:45 GMT -5
Hello, My alloy is Lyman #2 and My toaster is a cheapie Rival. No convection setting in this one. Lowering the temp to 300 seems to have improved things considerably. As for my mold, I'll take a pic of it once I return home. It's a NOE noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=1717&osCsid=9n8ra9kttavqc8vqcirijets33I 'm learning that I've got to watch my screws for tightness. Things seems to wanna walk around a bit. There are a couple dark spots on the inside flats I'd like to fix up, but I'd hate to ruin a new mould from ignorance. Doing some searching for Answers. Been casting for maybe 4 weeks so it's all still new. |
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Post by 38 WCF on Mar 7, 2016 20:25:23 GMT -5
The fins are from the mold not closing completely. Make sure the face of the mold blocks are clean and free of any debris that may be preventing complete closure.
Definitely to much heat if the bullets are melting. You only need enough heat to change the powder from a dry to a wet surface. Nothing is gained from excess heat or prolonged exposure to the heat.
I only cook my bullets for 18 minute at an experimental heat setting that I know works. No idea what that temperature actually is. It really does not matter as long as it is working.
Maybe you also have to much powder on the bullets to begin with. Use just enough to cover the bullet one layer thick as it were.
When finished the bullets will feel almost as if they were made of glass and should be quite slippery.
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Post by boatswainsmate on Mar 7, 2016 20:45:59 GMT -5
Hello, My alloy is Lyman #2 and My toaster is a cheapie Rival. No convection setting in this one. Lowering the temp to 300 seems to have improved things considerably. As for my mold, I'll take a pic of it once I return home. It's a NOE noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=1717&osCsid=9n8ra9kttavqc8vqcirijets33I 'm learning that I've got to watch my screws for tightness. Things seems to wanna walk around a bit. There are a couple dark spots on the inside flats I'd like to fix up, but I'd hate to ruin a new mould from ignorance. Doing some searching for Answers. Been casting for maybe 4 weeks so it's all still new. I would get yourself a decent oven thermometer and do some testing how the heat holds up during the process of baking your bullets. Your #2 alloy is great but most of the research I have read says that the bhn is about 10 once they get done cooking. I would save the #2 for lubed bullets your wanting to push fast. Brass molds can be temperamental if not broke in properly. Your bullet fill out shows signs of using a cold mold(IE wrinkles in the bullet). Brass molds like to be run hot. Once I got a PID on my pot it helped me dial in each brass mold I own. I would go over to castboolits website and do your research. I hope this helped a little bit. Boats |
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