eskimo36
.375 Atomic
Oklahoma
Posts: 2,049
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Post by eskimo36 on Nov 19, 2015 15:37:13 GMT -5
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subdoc
.30 Stingray
Posts: 180
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Post by subdoc on Nov 21, 2015 20:21:12 GMT -5
Oh no!
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Post by whitworth on Nov 23, 2015 9:00:34 GMT -5
That's a really nice revolver.
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Post by seancass on Nov 23, 2015 19:04:59 GMT -5
I think somebody got a good deal there! That's a looker!
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 29, 2015 12:34:45 GMT -5
OK, I want to know: how DOES one finish grips like that? I have that wood and either use a clear finish or an oil finish. The oildarkens up the wood more than that, and the clear finish does not bring out the contrast in the burl. How does one get that kind of finish?
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Post by bushog on Nov 29, 2015 13:39:53 GMT -5
Use the right wood.
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 29, 2015 14:45:14 GMT -5
Given the right wood, what finish?
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eskimo36
.375 Atomic
Oklahoma
Posts: 2,049
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Post by eskimo36 on Nov 30, 2015 7:20:37 GMT -5
I use Watco teak oil (Lowe's) thinned with mineral spirits at about 50/50 to 65/35 depending on how open the grain of the wood is. Hand rubbed with a clean soft cloth as it dries(24-48 hrs depending on humidity). As many coats as makes me happy. If you feel it gets to thick in places, use 1000 or 1200 wet/dry sandpaper wetted with the 50/50 mixture. This finish will get into the wood and not mute the colors in exhibition grade walnut.
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 30, 2015 11:46:43 GMT -5
Thanks! I've preferred BLO to Teak oil, particularly if I'm "stuck" using big box oils with the driers already added. I clearly need to give the Teak oil a second chance.
So you find that thinning it reduces the darkening of the wood?
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James
.30 Stingray
Posts: 411
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Post by James on Nov 30, 2015 16:10:51 GMT -5
that was a good deal....
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eskimo36
.375 Atomic
Oklahoma
Posts: 2,049
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Post by eskimo36 on Nov 30, 2015 17:02:56 GMT -5
I do find it reduces darkening. I really like the caramel colors to show and this seems to work.
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