0369
.30 Stingray
Posts: 159
|
Post by 0369 on May 24, 2015 21:43:55 GMT -5
Last year the Contender bug bit me and I've been collecting barrels when I can. I have a super 14 44 mag coming on Tuesday that I'm going to extend to use as a carbine barrel and I'd like to make a brake for it but don't know what type would work the best. I don't really need to reduce the recoil since I had a frame give up before I did with a 21" 45/70 barrel but just don't want it to be plain like my extended 30-30 is. I'll be threading it and using a pin with a tack on one side to make it permanent, but able to change it in the future if I want to. Any links to designs out there?
|
|
jgt
.327 Meteor
Enter your message here...
Posts: 816
|
Post by jgt on Jun 3, 2015 8:47:08 GMT -5
I like the ones duplicating the barrel on a tank. Mainly make sure there are no openings in the bottom to kick up dust.
|
|
|
|
Post by frankenfab on Jun 3, 2015 19:30:13 GMT -5
I highly recommend the Shrewd muzzle brakes from Brownell's, if you have the ability to bore out the ID and exit hole to your desired dimensions.You want the bore of the muzzle end the same as the major diameter of the barrel threads, and the exit hole about .020" over projectile size.
I have one on a .444 Lone Eagle, and the reduction in recoil is easily demonstrated by shooting with and without the brake. I can only take about 3 shots with the 300 gr. loads without the brake before the web of my hand hurts so much I don't care to continue. But I can shoot as many as I want with it on.
|
|
|
|
Post by mobjack on Jun 21, 2015 11:15:30 GMT -5
As you know, make sure it is over 16" unless you want to go the SBR route. You might want to ask here subguns.com/boards/sword.cgi they are veryhelpful. Mobjack |
|
|
|
Post by cherokeetracker on Jun 21, 2015 14:58:41 GMT -5
Carbine length, it is supposed to be over 16" which includes the muzzle brake. As long as it cannot be removed in the field then it is OK. Like you stated you are going to pin and weld it. I am not familiar with shrewd, but a Miculek style, is out the sides and not the bottom or top. I agree if you hunt then you will want the blast to the sides only. Whatever brand you choose. dirt in the face or unburned powder blasted upward is not fun.
Something to consider and look at, is the kind of bullets you are going to be using. The brakes for lead are usually a little different than the ones for jacketed bullets. Example: Most 500 S&W and I think the 460s come with two different brakes for different bullets.
One last thing about a SBR If you plan on taking it out of your state to another to hunt with,,, You GOT to Have Permission. You do not have to have it with a suppressor. as long as the State allows hunting with a suppressor. Example Texas & Wyoming I live in Texas and can take a suppressed rifle or pistol to Wyoming to hunt Pdogs. BUT,,,, If I want to take a SBR to Wyoming then I have to write the ATF several months ahead of time and get permission to take that SBR to Wyoming or any other state. The paperwork has to go with the SBR and be kept with it at all times.
I hope that I am not hijacking this thread or ruffling feathers but I am just offering you some facts. to save you from looking a long time for info.
|
|
|
|
Post by kaytod on Jul 15, 2015 20:00:02 GMT -5
As much as I hate muzzle brakes, I have used some.
The best bang for your buck is the Harrell's 4 port tactical. It's like $45. Yes they need to be indexed, but that is a pretty easy task. Combined with the 32 TPI it is a bit easier than the 24 TPI.
Ports direct to the side and slightly upward with a solid bottom so they don't kick up stuff off the bench or ground nearly as bad.
Hope this helps
Todd
|
|
|
|
Post by flyfisher66048 on Jul 26, 2015 5:30:34 GMT -5
If you don't need the break to reduce muzzle rise, just add a straight piece of AL. Here is a link to David White's forum -http://www.dandtcustomgunworks.websitetoolbox.com/post/7mm-tcu-5843959?pid=1284673355#post1284673355
|
|
|
|
Post by Markbo on Jul 27, 2015 15:40:24 GMT -5
There is no description about that add on. What exactly does it do?
|
|
|
|
Post by kaytod on Aug 17, 2015 20:06:15 GMT -5
There is no description about that add on. What exactly does it do? It is permanently affixed to turn a 14" barrel into legal length carbine. |
|
|
|
Post by cherokeetracker on Aug 17, 2015 20:27:42 GMT -5
As much as I hate muzzle brakes, I have used some. The best bang for your buck is the Harrell's 4 port tactical. It's like $45. Yes they need to be indexed, but that is a pretty easy task. Combined with the 32 TPI it is a bit easier than the 24 TPI. Ports direct to the side and slightly upward with a solid bottom so they don't kick up stuff off the bench or ground nearly as bad. Hope this helps Todd When you are trying to index a Muzzle brake, ( you may know this) they do make tuning washers. They are very thin, and some of them wavy, so that you can get a Muzzle Brake indexed properly. Used in conjunction with a crush washer It's there. Remember that the Crush washer is to be used once and then tossed if you have to remove the brake for anything. Charles That should have been timing washer instead of tuning,,, also some places just call them shims. Midway has them in different thicknesses. |
|
0369
.30 Stingray
Posts: 159
|
Post by 0369 on Aug 25, 2015 13:35:58 GMT -5
I've been busy and haven't been on here but for an update, my 30-30 and 44 mag barrels are now 16 1/4" with just smooth extentions threaded and pinned with a tack over the pins. I decided against the extra noise oder a brake.
|
|
