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Post by serialsolver on Jan 3, 2015 21:01:50 GMT -5
I got this snubby 8 shot s&w. I had one before. Shoulda kept it. I like it. The oddness is growing me. My poor hip likes the size and weight. I like the capacity. Shoots pretty good too.  |
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 4, 2015 21:04:31 GMT -5
So I go shoot the 327. No hard testing just verify sights and function. Its sighted for 158 gr. that's what I want. I go to clean it and noticed the barrel shroud is loose on the barrel. Once I figured out the barrel nut is left hand thread I got the barrel apart.   |
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 4, 2015 21:12:58 GMT -5
So,I'm wondering what I can do now. I remember that in my accumulations I have a Dan Wesson 357 barrel wrench.  A little adjustment and it will work. |
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 4, 2015 21:24:12 GMT -5
Anyway, I set the barrel cylinder gap, put the barrel together and tighten it as tight as I can by hand.  I'll go shoot it first chance I get. |
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 5, 2015 9:06:41 GMT -5
It's got a little flame cutting on the cylinder.  |
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 5, 2015 11:12:46 GMT -5
serialsolver.... impeccable timing----photos of your M-327. Big help in understanding this S&W arrangement. See thread of Jay's with his .460 S&W with Custom Shop 14" bbl.
As model prefix "3" designates an aluminum frame, reckon your M-327 has this construction. Alarming cylinder face erosion on your revolver. Hard to believe the cylinder is heat treated carbon or stainless steel.
Once again, blue Loctite on barrel threads should lock barrel, shroud, and muzzle nut from coming loose. Heat necessary to break bond. Else, threads into aluminum frame may be damaged.
David Bradshaw
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 5, 2015 13:11:52 GMT -5
Mr Bradshaw your post on the other thread has helped me. I did find on the Internet a Dan Wesson manual that advises the procedure, which I followed. So if I understand the design and use of the threads, shooting the gun keeps the barrel tight? Is that correct? The flame cutting is on the titanium cylinder. Probably from a previous owner shooting 125gr or lighter bullets. Those light bullets are not what I'm going to use. Only 158 swc or 148 wadcutters. I shot it this morning, so far so good.  |
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 5, 2015 13:38:44 GMT -5
Amazing, how machine tools have such a hard time cutting titanium, while a little ol' dose of hot gas from a .357 bites it like clay. Reckon our experimental .357 Maximum loads would've burned off the whole front of a titanium cylinder.
Yes, barrel torque of right hand twist acts to tighten barrel into right hand threads. Which doesn't stop a DWA muzzle nut from loosening, if it is so inclined. I applied Anti-Size Compound to the barrel threads of of a Dan Wesson .44. Took several hundred rounds for torque to screw barrel into frame enough to drag cylinder, during which time the muzzle nut did not loosen. Only the barrel moved----into frame.
S&W's combination of right-hand thread at frame, with left-hand threat at muzzle, should in theory be a good thing. Vibration has a way of defeating theory. No harm in trying the blue Loctite. Just heat must be applied to disassemble.
David Bradshaw
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 5, 2015 14:59:56 GMT -5
I've been looking for a 627 cylinder maybe to replace the titanium one it should only add about 2 oz. may contact s&w and see what they say.
Will watch the barrel nut, cylinder gap and put it on the pre-flight check list with the other screws on the pistol. I have some blue locktite on hand if needed.
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Post by magnumwheelman on Jan 5, 2015 15:11:54 GMT -5
Thanks for starting this post... I had no idea S&W was using a barrel nut system on these... now I'd be curious if you could use other Dan Wesson barrel shrouds ( which come up for sale pretty regularly ) & a couple easy to make custom threaded barrels, & you might be able to put together a S&W "pistol pak" ala Dan Wesson style...
I have 2 Dan Wessons, & a custom that uses a 6" stainless Dan Wesson Shroud on a Taurus "raging" frame ( my custom is an 8 shot 22 Hornet )my DW's are a stainless 357 Maximum, & a blued 44 Magnum
I've never seen a cylinder with face cutting like that... however my only Titanium cylinder is on my 44 Special, & that one doesn't see too many shots down range... I wonder if a call to S&W could get you a new replacement cylinder coming... perhaps even a replacement steel one at no cost???
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 5, 2015 18:12:14 GMT -5
I don't know about a muilty barrel system on an alloy frame. I gave it some thought but not much. Those alloy threads probably won't take much abuse. I'm thinking about sending s&w a photo of the cylinder and see what they say about it. I'm not getting my hopes up since it's a used gun.
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Post by magnumwheelman on Jan 5, 2015 18:25:46 GMT -5
ahhhh.. but it's a PERFORMANCE CENTER gun... I bet they cover it...
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robl
.375 Atomic
These were the good ole days!
Posts: 1,415
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Post by robl on Jan 6, 2015 20:20:09 GMT -5
S&W and Dan Wesson parted company of his idea...interesting to see the Performance Center take it up for the last 10 years or so.
Maybe the PC will make a Stainless Pistol Pack one day... a 4" and a 83/8 or 10 inch 627 would be dang handy.
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Post by serialsolver on Jan 27, 2015 21:32:02 GMT -5
So I go shoot the 327 yesterday and after 8 rds of 357 and the barrel shroud is loose on the barrel again but the barrel nut is tight. I took the barrel apart again reset it and then locktite the shroud. I go shoot it again today and after several rounds of lead swc 158 mags followed by some 148 copper wadcutters everything stays tight. While looking it over close I noticed the forcing cone had a off center mark. It looks like the copper wadcutters rubbed off the lead from the swc off center of the bore. I shot my m66 with the same ammo in the same order and it had the lead wiped off in the center of the forcing cone. Here's a pic of the 327 forcing cone  |
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 27, 2015 23:22:53 GMT -5
serialsolver.... providing your M-327 forcing cone is concentric-to-bore:
A gas or lead signature at 6 o'clock in forcing cone suggests chamber offset at 6 o'clock to bore. A range rod will detect whether chamber offset is below bore, or above bore. Photo indicates vertical misalignment.
I don't understand how the barrel loosens in the frame, while the muzzle nut continues to tension barrel. Unless the frame end of the barrel can be pulled against a shoulder in the shroud by the muzzle nut. Such an arrangement doesn't make sense. However, as you suspect, threads in the aluminum frame cannot take the thread loads of a steel frame. I would try blue Loctite on the frame threads. adjust barrel where you want it before Loctite sets up. Remember, heat must be applied to defeat Loctite.
David Bradshaw
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