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Post by squawberryman on Mar 28, 2014 6:39:44 GMT -5
I got an LAR Grizzly side charger upper and want to build a side charging 204. I have no knowledge other than basic AR assembly and disassembly but I understand torque and head spacing. Any experience would be appreciated.
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
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Post by cmillard on Mar 28, 2014 7:45:12 GMT -5
what exactly are you wanting to know? uppers are really pretty simple.
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Post by arokcrwlr on Mar 28, 2014 7:46:54 GMT -5
I have built many of them - no side chargers. All you need is a few basic tools - pretty simple.
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Post by squawberryman on Mar 28, 2014 7:57:42 GMT -5
Cmillard, how to I suppose. Shilen offers a bolt/barrel combo. Other than a nut, jam nut, gas tube and gas block what else is there? Rockcrawler I've got a AR tool, what all tools are required? If the bolt and barrel are sold as a headspaced unit, what else is there to be cautious of other than final torque? I've not been able to find a carbon fiber barrel for it yet though I'd loooove to have one if anybody knows of one. Proof doesn't offer one. Side charger 204 makes me smile.......
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
Posts: 1,943
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Post by cmillard on Mar 28, 2014 8:12:37 GMT -5
even if someone sold an already headspaced bolt with the barrel, it is still wise to drop in go/no go gauges. if you have a side charge, you don't have to worry about the forward assist, so you don't have to worry about the tapping in the pin for that. when you do the lower, and specifically the pivot pin, I highly recommend getting the pivot pin tool!!! even with the tool, it is still very easy to launch the small parts, so what I do is get the biggest Ziploc bag I can get my hands/lower receiver in. the bag acts as a capture in case you launch those little buggers (I have launched maybe only 2 since I got the L wrench--so it does help.) if I might add, get yourself a good trigger and barrel--try not to skimp in these areas!! I would highly recommend gieselle (spelling?) triggers, he makes the best around, hands down! the shilen barrel will serve you well. sounds like you are interested in weight reduction?? that may be a little difficult, depending on which forearms you go with and I hope you use a free float (sounds like you may use it for varmint?) other than those items, a brass/plastic gunsmith hammer is needed, a set of punches for roll pins/detents, torque wrench, combo wrench, clam shell with T insert for upper receiver for torqueing barrel, masking tape (I use to put around detent holes when punching them in to keep from marring finish), permanent marker or dykem (used to mark the gas tube at receiver end to check for alignment with gas key when aligning barrel nut), lower receiver block (helps with installation of small parts and trigger), is use either some light gun oil or anti seize(if using this, put a tiny bit on and wipe off with towel, you barely want any on there) for torqueing the barrel down.
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Post by arokcrwlr on Mar 28, 2014 8:49:25 GMT -5
What cmillard said... Except, I say skip the go/no-go gauges. It's either going to work or not. There is nothing you can do to adjust headspace other than swap bolts until you find one that works. I have built 15+ uppers and I've never used a bolt/barrel combo that didn't work. Buying a barrel with a matched/headspaced bolt should pretty much alleviate any issues. If your just building the upper all you really need is the upper receiver vice block and a AR tool that you can use with a torque wrench. I use this upper vice block as it also comes with a gas tube alignment pin - makes it easy to get the proper alignment. Upper Receiver block |
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Post by squawberryman on Mar 28, 2014 9:41:12 GMT -5
I'm getting away from obtaining more lowers for builds, just want uppers that can swap out. This is gonna go on an Eagle (Armalite) with a good trigger in it. Just doing the top once it gets here. Thanks fellas. How do you torque a big round nut and where should I obtain that spec Kraig?
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Post by arokcrwlr on Mar 28, 2014 10:39:53 GMT -5
I assume you are referring to the barrel nut. If using a standard AR barrel nut/delta ring arrangement, your AR armorers tool should have the accomodation for the barrel nut as seen in this pic.  If you are installing a aftermarket free float handguard, the manufacturer usually supplies the tool for the nut. The torque value that I have always heard is 30 ft-lb MINIMUM, 80 ft-lb MAXIMUM. So, I torque the nut to 30 ft-lbs and then I simply check the gas tube alingment, and tighten until the next hole lines up. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2014 12:30:37 GMT -5
The clamshell fixtures for the upper receiver are a good thing to have too, and are not that expensive. Make sure you get the one that will accomodate both flat top and carrying handle uppers. You can get around these fixtures if you're only going to build one upper, but I still haven't met anyone who stopped at just one upper.
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Post by Markbo on Apr 4, 2014 11:53:42 GMT -5
Just an FYI I just got a 24" .204 upper. First trip to the range I could only find 32gr ammo - no 40gr available that I could find. But... first 2 groups were basically just large holes... I have appropriated brass and primers and bullets and soon as I can get some powders I am going to go to work. Good luck with yours!
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