Free spin pawl question.

[needsmostuff]

One by one my Blackhawks have been getting the homemade grind it yourself free spin pawl . Now I'm looking at doing one of my 32 mag single sixes but don't remember any one doing one. Seems like it should work the same, with the same angle and amount of grind on the pawl. But figure it's best to ask ,them that knows, first,,,, before grinding. So in this case single six same as Blackhawk ?

[curmudgeon]

Don't think you can do it on a S/S or a 3 screw.

[bradshaw]

Experience with a Ron Power free spin pawl in New Model Blackhawk and SBH: pawl must be fitted. Once in a while it's a drop-in, usually must be fit, and once in a while it's a finesse job. Ever so rarely, the Ron Power free spin pawl resists fitting at all without going inside the frame. Have only worked with the Power free spin pawl, which is cut from carbon tool steel, with a separate pivot pin pressed in. The Ruger BH/SBH pawl is lost wax cast in chrome-moly or stainless.
David Bradshaw

[aciera]

It's been a while but a 32 H&R single six can be done.

[needsmostuff]

Well , I bit the stick and did it . I don't really know why but it did seem a little different than the full sized blackhawks I've been doing. In fact I had to disassemble and grind twice to get enough clearance. Also kind of creepy, it seems to lock up much tighter when cocked now. Timing seems correct and all is very smooth and correct feeling, just tighter? O well, time for a smoke test.

[bradshaw]

needsmostuff.... still unsure whether you're using a free spin pawl from Ron Power, or someone else, or one you made yourself. Only revolver I know that times chamber-to-bore alignment off the pawl is the Python, perhaps its ancestors. Revolvers as diverse as Smith & Wesson, Dan Wesson, and Ruger SA and DA, and Freedom Arms do not push the cylinder against the cylinder stop (a.k.a. bolt or cylinder catch), while the Python does. Slip fit of pawl against cylinder ratchet----o.k.; pressure----no. If you feel it in the trigger consider the interference undesirable.

Trust everything is oiled or greased, but sounds dry.

A two-teardown fitup is pretty damn quick.
David Bradshaw

[needsmostuff]

David, This is a do it yourself grind on the pawl that was factory installed and came in the gun. That was why I was a little hesitant about grinding on it. Full-sized guns I have lots of spares to play with but none for the single-six size frame.
Being a factory fitted part is why I was mystified by how just grinding the angle on the top shelf could change the tightness of lock up.
It is my understanding the final carry up and timing is done off the bottom shelf, which remained unchanged.
While disassembled I did polish all 4 sides of the pawl shaft (and several other things)so I suppose it could be falling deeper into the ratchet but that would only be microns. All polishing was done with emery paper and buffing wheel so not much removed.
Right now the cylinder locks at the last of the hammer cock. The cylinder then has NO movement side to side or fore and aft. When un cocked There is a little movement both ways.
Thanks for looking at it and any insight or thoughts would be valued.

[theoldredneck]

This free spin modification is not the free spin usually referred to here. This one is where the inside corner of the hand that rotates the cylinder is ground off at an angle. It allows the cylinder to be rotated backwards because the part of the hand that stops it is now gone. This modification leaves the hand ground to a point that turns the cylinder. The modification works but I don't care for it. I traded for a single six that had it and the cylinder star or ratchet was wearing where the point on the hand made contact to turn it. I put the gun back to the original type hand. Will use a Powers hand if I free spin it. As to why his gun locks tighter I do not know. With the single six I had the cylinder did not turn as smooth. Returning it to the original factory type hand smoothed everything back up. A gunsmith I have a lot of respect for said these modifications always lead to problems later. He didn't go into it any deeper and I didn't ask. Was just happy to get the gun fixed.

[needsmostuff]

Well I went to fix it again as a new replacement hand came in from Midway . Part was listed for single-six but not specific about .22/.32. Unmodified when installed, it would not completely carry up to locked . So the modified part is back in.
Grumble , grumble, don't know why but full sized Blackhawks seem easier to work on.

[377shooter]

needmostuff,

The 2nd hand on the pawl is slightly long which is holding the cylinder tight against the latch when cocked. That is why the cylinder seems tight when cocked and not when the hammer is down. Some like this arrangement, but it may cause a harder than normal trigger pull because of the added pressure the tight lockup feeds back to the hammer (acts like a more powerful hammer spring). As soon as the trigger breaks the side pressure is released from the cylinder and the cylinder may be in motion before the hammer strikes which could degrade accuracy. If you don't like it just file a slight amount off the 2nd hand to ease the pressure against the cylinder when cocked. 

Hope this is helpfull!

[tek4260]

I don't see how modding it could cause the revolver to lock up tighter. Maybe you are just more "in tune" to the workings after modding it and paying more attention to the carry up and lock up?

I have done them in the past, but didn't care for it and decided it could possibly make the revolver less reliable since there was less contact in the initial turning of the cylinder.

On the replacement pawl, how much too short is it to get full lockup? You can lay the pawl on your vise and peen the second step slightly to lengthen it. Or you can open up the rear of the grip frame slightly to allow the hammer to come further back at cocking, thus turning the cylinder more and achieving lockup.