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Post by tek4260 on Sept 12, 2013 8:48:21 GMT -5
I also realize that it is hard to visualize how my mod works without kicking or feeling mushy. The only way I can explain it is to say that the finger pad is already mashed in and the hammer sliding the trigger back is not felt as the pressure required to break the sear and trigger is greater and the sliding back is "absorbed" by the pad. I have had to repair a few botched trigger jobs for friends that dropped the transfer bar too much. Apparently they had the angle so that the trigger kicked forward and dropped the transfer bar after it broke. I deepened the hammer notches to restore the hammer and did my mod and they all were pleased with the trigger. I suppose it has to be felt. My mod wouldn't work if the hammer dog was shortened. My mod relies on the height of the dog to hold the trigger and hammer in the factory position. A shorter dog would cause my mod to screw up the angle and cause it not to hold.
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 12, 2013 9:53:32 GMT -5
tek4260.... many things endear me to the New Model lockwork. The factory letoff is not one of them. Fortunately, the simplicity and robustness of the NM hammer and trigger lend themselves to knowledgeable correction. Perhaps to see how light I could get the pull, I worked experimental .357 Maximums down to 6 and 8 ounces----with factory springs. That is a ridiculous weight, one I would never stick in a holster. Nor would I take it to the line in competition, where your stance or position----not sandbags----is the rest. Such lightness challenges tactile intent, and defies the FLEX-REFLEX hard-wired law of physiology. The tighter we squeeze our fist, the harder it becomes to float a finger. To drop pull weight too low surrenders trigger control.
Against that, the so-called New York trigger is for amateurs. No lawyer and no administrator can tell a pro diddly about trigger pull.
The dead clean break takes less time to master. To master smooth take-up takes more time on the trigger. David Bradshaw
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Post by squawberryman on Sept 12, 2013 14:17:51 GMT -5
Brother Bradshaw, if there's any way possible you could post pics of DO THIS HERE along with DO NOT DO THIS HERE, many readers would pay attention to the lesson
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 13, 2013 19:47:13 GMT -5
squawberryman.... this won't be studio animation. But I'll illustrate the basics as close to caveman elegant as possible, as soon as possible. David Bradshaw
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Post by 45coltnut on Sept 15, 2013 17:12:44 GMT -5
I'm waiting eagerly with much anticipation on the details as I'm planning on tackling this trigger job this week.
Thanks Bradshaw for helping us all out. It's much appreciated.
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Post by cheap870 on Sept 15, 2013 19:26:08 GMT -5
Here is some simple instructions that work.
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Post by cheap870 on Sept 15, 2013 19:27:03 GMT -5
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Post by 45coltnut on Sept 15, 2013 19:28:45 GMT -5
Yep, this works good. This was the first thing I did to mine. Got it to a nice 2lb. trigger this way. Thanks for the link as I failed to bookmark it.
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 543
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Post by Shakey on Sept 15, 2013 20:51:48 GMT -5
I am a little disappointed that no one has commented on my earlier suggestion to use JB Weld to reduce the sear engagement. It seems to me that, to reduce the engagement of a trigger that is otherwise "good", it would be better to reduce how far the trigger can seat in the notch than to remove the front of the notch. This completely eliminates the possibility of changing any engagement angles, doesn't change the transfer bar lift, and cannot create a trigger slap condition.
My only reservation is the use of JB Weld and I was hoping someone would suggest a better way to create a "bumper". I have considered adding a spot of weld but don't know anyone that good with a welder and am concerned about the heat. The hammer is too hard to bump up a burr with a punch and I don't think I could drill it to insert a short pin.
I would welcome thoughts on a better way to make a bumper. Or, ...do you just completely disagree with this approach?
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Post by 45coltnut on Sept 15, 2013 22:52:52 GMT -5
Shaky,
My only reservation would be to ensure the JB weld would "stick" well to the metal. I mean I would think a person would only need a thin layer in order to decrease the engagement amount. But, when you begin to stone down the JB weld would it simply break loose from the mating surface?
I've used this method before in decreasing the engagement amount. Only that I used a set screw securey drilled and tapped through the trigger at which you could adjust the engagement.
I guess while I'm not totally against it I'd have to really think about doing it and weiing all options first. It just doesn't seem as robust as I'd like. But, that's said with little knowledge about JB weld.
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 543
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Post by Shakey on Sept 16, 2013 0:03:14 GMT -5
46coltnut, I too am concerned about the JB coming loose and thats the reason I am not more confident with the method. If it did come loose I don't think it would tie up the gun or create an unsafe condition but, I certainly wouldn't do it on a SD gun.
I've thought about adding a set screw to the trigger but assumed it was too hard to drill. Also concerned about the hammer notch having to bypass it. ...seems like it would "bump" or maybe catch.
I think the ideal would be to put a set screw in the hammer just below the notch but didn't think I could drill it. If you can drill the trigger maybe I can drill the hammer. I've got some extras, ...guess I'll have to try. Anybody done this and is a special bit needed?
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Post by tek4260 on Sept 16, 2013 6:42:43 GMT -5
You'd need a carbide bit to drill the hammer. I tried drilling a hammer face in vain when I was going to d/t the face to install a screw. The idea was to install a cap screw, file it down flat and even with the top step of the hammer to do away with the transfer bar.
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 543
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Post by Shakey on Sept 16, 2013 11:44:06 GMT -5
That's about what I expected. If it's that hard to drill, ...not much chance of tapping it. Guess I'll not try that.
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 16, 2013 22:59:04 GMT -5
Shall try to post a couple of illustrations on what I do in next couple days. We are in the crush of fall harvest. Know that Ruger parts are THROUGH HARDENED and lend themselves to careful touch. The idea of adulterating the trigger or hammer with JB Weld stands my hair. The process of cleaning the Ruger NM single action trigger requires a patient, trial and error approach, but it is simple. I have a hard time imagining any epoxy taking the place of steel-to-steel fit. And a harder time trusting the adulterated outcome, especially over time and against arctic adversity. I have never found an endurance problem with a correctly set New Model trigger or hammer. David Bradshaw
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Post by boxhead on Sept 18, 2013 1:09:18 GMT -5
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