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Post by sackpeterson on May 31, 2013 8:52:04 GMT -5
What’s the best black fast cut polishing compound? Looking for a brand to try on a project piece.
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caryc
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,039
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Post by caryc on May 31, 2013 10:14:18 GMT -5
You might at least tell us what the material is that you're trying to polish.
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Post by sackpeterson on May 31, 2013 10:45:38 GMT -5
It's a now in the white Hammerli Dakota revolver.
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Post by dougader on May 31, 2013 12:23:30 GMT -5
I know a guy who uses the brick orange colored jeweler's rouge on a paper wheel to polish steel. He uses it for sharpening knives to a razor sharp hone, too.
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Post by curmudgeon on May 31, 2013 13:39:05 GMT -5
I have found that die polishing stones work best. Easier to control, will take the shape of areas being polished and easier to maintain sharp edges. After a 900 grit stone a stiched muslin w/knifemaker GREEN, lightly touched will bring up a mirror finish, dependeding on starting condition as to what grade stone is started with. Get a fast breakdown stone and lube with lots of kerosene.FWIW dept. Stones available from many sources. I personally use MSC Supply and have for 30 years.
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Post by benware on Jun 10, 2013 17:37:52 GMT -5
Sack, I use Brownells 555 black on a medium felt wheel. I do custom polish and blue and this works for me.
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Post by curmudgeon on Jun 10, 2013 19:06:05 GMT -5
Benware, how do you get the polishing marks out that way, and keep all your edges sharp  ?? |
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Post by benware on Jun 21, 2013 18:16:57 GMT -5
I am not going to say that a good polish job is easy to keep edges sharp and screw holes nice and clean. It can be done
with power buffing wheels but takes some practice. The felt wheels and progressive finer grit polishing wheels is what I use.
I mainly do high gloss polish. If you don't have the budget for all the wheels,grit,buffers(1850 rpm) I would recommend silicon
carbide paper as the best way. A very good polish can be obtained this way and keep all edges sharp. It just takes longer.
Start course enough grit to remove all pits and scratches and work up to finer grits.Generally I use 120-180-240-320-400-550 grit.
On some guns 1873 Winchesters,1892 winchesters for example all I use is silicon carbide paper wetted with kerosene. Keeps edges
sharp,lettering intact,and flats flat. I view polishing as a art and it takes practice to do perfect. Hope this helps you. This
is also why people bring guns to me to polish.
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Post by curmudgeon on Jun 29, 2013 11:31:56 GMT -5
Definitly an ART, different selections of material by different artists. Like the man says, if you do not want to invest in material needed, don't start.
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Post by contender on Jul 13, 2013 9:34:05 GMT -5
A good polishing job is what makes a gun look it's best when completed. I wish I could offer advice here, but I'm not skilled enough to properly polish a gun. I leave it to those who have developed the skills to make it an art.
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Post by bugman53 on Aug 15, 2013 1:22:25 GMT -5
What I do is use wet dry paper with a hard backing and sand the gun or part out starting with 320(depending on what the finish is like) up to 800 grit and use black compound followed by red or white and you can get a perfect mirror finish with no waves or rolled corners. I use a spiral stitched cotton buff. But this is after I do all the draw filing metal work ect. But you did not ask for a lesson so to answer your question I really like the Dico www.dicoproducts.com/compounds.html its pretty cheap and does not seem to leave a lot of grease behind. |
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