Camp Perry Red Oil for 1911's, anyone heard of it?

[squawberryman]

I was doing some work at my church the other day when the assocuiate pastor (who knows I'm a gun nut) asked me if Id ever heard of Red Oil. I replied no what is it? He has a couple of guns (not much knowledge) and a cousin with a few. The cousin had this recipe from his grandfather, date unknown, origin unknown. I asked him if he could get me a copy of it and here it is. I have no knowldge of it other than what's on this paper. I will be making it. I'm wondering if it will seperate or settle like salad dressing or if it will "mix" as all ingredients are petroleum based. Any input will be appreciated. It is going to make enough for me and five friends for a lifetime

[derekr]

I use straight ATF as a gun oil a lot of the time. I don't see why this recipe wouldn't work fine.

[mtnbkr]

I agree with derekr. I also use straight ATF on most of my guns.

I use very light grease (some bike suspension stuff called Slick Honey I purchased 12-15 years ago) where I don't want lube moving. It's like a trigger job in a jar for my revolvers.

Chris

[dmize]

Axlehandle made mention of this concoction a while back,Im sure as soon as he sees this header he will chime right in.
And yea unless your going to be a Camp Perry armorer you should have a ample supply for at least 30 people.

[blacktailslayer]

The non detergent motor oil is odd since the tranny fluid is usually high detergent to keep things clean in the tranny and the Hoppes is also a cleaner. The STP ought to thicken it us so it "sticks".

Sounds plausable to me.

Don D.

[petep]

Sounds like a different mix for old Ed's Red:
Thought this might be of interest. I just found what I think is the most recent update to Ed's Red. It's by C.E., Ed Harris, the inventor himself, updated & revised 9-29-95.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.

LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.

[AxeHandle]

Looks about like the recipe I got from the National Guard Marksmanship Training Unit (NGMTU) pistolsmiths some 30+ years ago. Seems like mine specified Type F trans fluid though. This lubricant was made for 1911s tightly built for accuracy and reliability. These guns are 50 yard x ring guns. I mixed a batch back then. Poured it into quart bottles and shared it with a couple of buddies. I'm still using that same oil. I think the Hoppe's was added just so that you would know what it was. FWIW it was wonderful lube for our 45s. I learned the hard way that our 22LR semiautos did not like it in cold weather.


petep's mix and directions look like OSHA and the CDC got their hands on lt!

[squawberryman]

Does it make me a redneck if I put a drop of #9 behind each ear when I go out? Man i love that stuff!

[AxeHandle]

Trust me man... You don't need Hoppe's to make the cut. Embrace your heritage and become one with the force!

[squawberryman]

I embraced my white trashedness a long time ago. I tell my wife all the time "embrace it honey". it doesn't get me brownie points but I know what my common denominator is