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Post by Lee Martin on Mar 1, 2013 14:11:27 GMT -5
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 1, 2013 15:58:34 GMT -5
beaucoup thanks, Lee.
8 photos, from top:
1) Leather and buckles by David Bradshaw from mid-1960s.
Left----Model 29-2 6-1/2" in water molded holster of heavily waxed English saddle leather. The belt with pull-through loops is 3"-wide on single layer top grain cowhide, perfect for day-in, day-out wear. Cowhide lacing.
Right----SBH "old model" with factory brass grip frame. Revolver shot in first IHMSA International Championship, 1977. Holster water molded of vegetable tanned "sole" leather----very hard and thick. Elk lacing.
Buckles fashioned from 1/4-inch brass, with heavy copper tongues cut from old water pipe.
2) M29-2 6-1/2". Took first handgun deer with this revolver, followed by a great many more.
3) Same M29-2 6-1/2". Factory grip rounded and contoured for fast action and precise fire.
4) M29-2 6-1/2" showing hand "checkered" scales.
5) M29-2 6-1/2" & M29-2 4".
6) M29-2 4" triggerguard. Script engraving by master in S&W engraving shop.
7) M29-2 6-1/2" in original box.
8) M29-2 4" with cast 240 SWC deep-seated over 5.5/HP-38. Zeiss 10x40mm.
David Bradshaw
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Post by Lee Martin on Mar 1, 2013 16:03:40 GMT -5
Classic double actions David and I'm sure each has some good stories to tell. -Lee www.singleactions.com"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time" |
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 1, 2013 17:50:42 GMT -5
Lee.... must confess, these sixguns have stories. The 6-/12" .44 has the toughest blue I've ever encountered, as the holster wear----or what skiers call "time on the mountain"----defies the high percentage of deep bluing on the revolver. Took a tour of Smith & Wesson around the time this revolver was made, 1965, and saw barreled frames and yokes packed in barrels of charcoal. No idea the exact process, but the bluing has held better than any guns made from about 1970 on.
The "oil tanned," or wax impregnated English saddle leather holster represents the best leather I ever worked with. Took forever soaking in water before I could form it around the gun. Likewise, heavy rains and a dunking in a river did nothing to the holster.
The wax or oil impregnation, along with periodic treatments, probably contributes to the incredibly minor bluing wear on the revolver. Although, bluing of other revolvers holstered from the same hide has worn much faster.
First deer dropped with this revolver took a swaged 240 half jacket deep seated over 17/Hercules 2400. Velocity 1060 fps. The pure lead core lands like a Joe Frazier left hook. This revolver has fired few full house .44s. Only one of the many deer taken with it required a second shot, and no deer fired upon with this revolver escaped the meat pole.
David Bradshaw
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Post by hammerdown77 on Mar 1, 2013 20:08:22 GMT -5
I could look at pictures of those old Model 29s all day. Takes me to a happy place. Thanks for the pictures, David!
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 1, 2013 22:32:55 GMT -5
Hammerdown77.... thank you. This pair of 29s and the old Ruger Super are testament to ethical performance from our gunmakers in our life time. I haven't the travel and experience of some, but these guns have made their bones, and a crate of new guns cannot fill the brass they've spent.
David Bradshaw
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Post by boxhead on Mar 2, 2013 1:46:29 GMT -5
Is that a Behlert rear sight on the 4" gun?
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 2, 2013 10:24:26 GMT -5
Boxhead.... the 4" has Millett with plain black window. Replaced it years ago after the S&W rear sight blade cracked through during some rough play to quiet a mean drunk. I was amazed at the punishment the S&W sight took. The Millett proved its worth and stayed on the gun.
Millett sights were used by many silhouetters, as adjustments were not only fine, they were consistent.
David Bradshaw
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Post by jayhawker on Mar 3, 2013 1:39:51 GMT -5
Fascinating leather.
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 3, 2013 19:15:25 GMT -5
Jayhawker.... Thank you. You will notice leg ties on the holsters, latigo on the S&W and elk on the Ruger. Periodically, the holsters and belts are treated to water and saddle soak wash. Dried in sunlight if the environ is Southland humidity. Dried near wood stove or other dry heat if in the North Country----unless it is summer. Treatment with a mixture of Pecards or Snow Seal or in the old days, mink oil & beeswax. Rubbed in and left to set for days.
Whatever that M29 holster of "English saddle leather" is, it is the best lasting, most water resistant hide I've ever used. Got the hide at age 18 and was told it was "oil tanned." It may have been impregnated with bees wax after tanning. Really gets your thumbs & fingers going, water molding around the revolver. I origianally used RIG gun grease to lube gun and work the leather. Later I used silicone grease. There were no stainless guns in those days, and I hadn't heard of dummy guns for forming leather.
I lubed the inside of a finished, dried holster with a mixture of graphite in PURE neatsfoot oil. (I did not say prime neatsfoot oil.)
The late Chic Gaylord taught me a few rudiments of water molding.
Lou Alessi told me of trouble finding properly tanned hides, warning me against South American, Middle Eastern, and Asian tanning. All good leather workers know you have to start with the best hide you can get, as overbrined or "cooked" leather is glorified cardboard----shiploads of which originate in China.
The holsters pictured above were made for silky action in the deer woods
David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 3, 2013 22:15:18 GMT -5
I believe graphite with neatsfoot oil/beeswax mix rubbed inside holster as an unseen finishing touch act to protect bluing. While pure neatsfoot oil is fine for wide single layer belts, it softens leather and may only be used very sparingly on a holster. An old French Canadian blacksmith in town used to lower the tack of draft horses into a vat of neatsfoot oil, let it soak, and hoist it out to drip dry.
A loose holster wears bluing faster than a properly water molded scabbard. Bone dry leather will of course wear bluing faster than hide treated as in the above practice.
Nor is a lined holster any guarantee of blue protection. The soft hide may hold fine dust to cause abrasion. Given good leather, properly maintained, different in bluing techniques eventually show their value. I am not qualified to say which is best, only that the finish of the M29 6-1/2" pictured here exemplifies exemplary bluing.
David Bradshaw
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Post by jayhawker on Mar 4, 2013 10:33:26 GMT -5
Would have loved to talk holsters with Gaylord. He was a genius with leather. His "boned" holsters were the best. Todays over molded holsters. molded in a hydrawlic press, are not as good as his hand molded treasures. Best I could do at the time (struggling high schooler/college student) was to order his catalog and his book. Made my own MO Skintight from the instructions in the book.
Believe the English leather is what they call a "stuffed" harness leather, as the force additives to it thereby "stuffing" it.
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 4, 2013 21:44:05 GMT -5
Jayhawker.... I have Gaylord's book, which he signed to me, early 1960s, I think. Gaylord pretty much pioneered nylon stitching in holsters, which, unlike linen, does not rot under sweat or tropical humidity.
Years ago, Berman's in Boston supplied some excellent leather, including FRENCHBACK, which water molds readily by hand. Frenchback I used was a bit thinner than my general holster leather, but holds its shape, and is especially fine for concealment rigs. Last time I looked up Berman's, all I saw was junk.
Chic Gaylord had a following among NYPD detective, undercover and Federal agents. Don't know who made the old NYPD .38 uniform holsters, but Gaylord said he could teach the cops fast draw from that cartoon swivel rig: wear it in the rain, then just rip the gun out of the holster.
I'd like to know more on the "stuffed" leather process. As to pressure forming, it doesn't take the place of hand working----for beauty or strength.
David Bradshaw
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Post by boxhead on Mar 6, 2013 5:03:06 GMT -5
Boxhead.... the 4" has Millett with plain black window. Replaced it years ago after the S&W rear sight blade cracked through during some rough play to quiet a mean drunk. I was amazed at the punishment the S&W sight took. The Millett proved its worth and stayed on the gun. Millett sights were used by many silhouetters, as adjustments were not only fine, they were consistent. David Bradshaw Yes I have Millett's on a couple of Smith's and a couple of Ruger SA's as well. Always work well. I just picked up a 4" nickel M29-2 that had a Behlert rear sight. The blade on your gun looked a bit larger than the Millet's I have. The Behlert has a larger blade. |
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Post by jayhawker on Mar 6, 2013 16:28:46 GMT -5
David,
As I recall, Bianchi's holster book has good definition of the different leathers, believe that is where I found it. Some of the English harness leathers are superior "stuffed" leather. Many pre 1900 harness makers had large vats of neatfoot oil which they submerged harness in annually. I was also told by an "old" saddlemaker that the best treatment for cowhide was to rub a bit of "unsalted" butter on it. Heat to liquid, then rub in. Sort of putting cow back on the cow. Actually had a catalog from a third gen saddlemaker that illustrared a very old saddle they had made, still in daily use on a ranch. They said they treated it every winter with unsalted butter.
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