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Post by Burnston on Aug 7, 2017 18:30:48 GMT -5
That's Hornady Leverevolution brass which is .060 shorter than standard 45-70 brass Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
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Post by Burnston on Aug 7, 2017 17:26:09 GMT -5
I was experimenting with cast bullet loads for my Marlin CB 45-70 when I ran out of brass. In desperation I turned to some once fired Hornady brass to temporarily fill the void until I could resupply. Alas, my RCBS dies will not accommodate these casings, leaving no flare and no crimp. It appears this particular casing is a tad shorter than Winchester and Remington brass, and no amount of die adjustment seems to offer a solution. The casings originally held a 325gr Jacketed "Red Tip" as they call it, which I assume are .458, there being no indication on the box. I am using cast 300gr RNFP .459 from Missouri Bullet company and am experiencing a slight stretch in the neck, I assume due to the larger bullet. I'd like to know if any of you handloaders have attempted to reload Hornady's casings, and if so, what trouble/solutions have you experienced? Given my limited experience level, the solution could be completely simple and obvious. Unfortunately, for guys like me, a good slap in the face is periodically necessary before I get the point. Thanks it advance. H- Hornady W- Winchester R- Remington
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Post by Burnston on Aug 3, 2017 9:49:22 GMT -5
I've been having no end of similar trouble with one of my single actions. Fermin Garza (2 Dogs) is a top hand when it comes to this stuff. He's got the equipment, time, and patience to measure your cylinder, bore, bullets, and anything else you need to give you an accurate reading on what will work best in your pistol. I've never met him in person, but I've trusted him and his work enough to send some of my stuff his way with $7 for return shipping and always get satisfactory results.
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Post by Burnston on Aug 1, 2017 17:56:08 GMT -5
God bored with the rain outside and started thinking about some abandoned, hard used model 21-4 grips I had stashed away. A little filing and sandpaper later, now they're sitting comfortably on a model 19. Impractical as all get out for my hand, but I thought they looked rather unique. Also, thought I'd better post a photo just to see if I'm in the doghouse with Photobucket as so many of you seem to be.
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Post by Burnston on Aug 1, 2017 10:13:08 GMT -5
Would you post a picture? It's is great to see the wear of use on especially an heirloom gun. I'd love to see a pic. I've yet to actually receive the pistol. It is in transit, as it were. As soon as I have it in hand, I'll post some pictures.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 30, 2017 18:02:31 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the participation, and for the pictures; beautiful pistols. Perhaps I should explain a bit where I'm coming from. I'll refrain from altering any of the original parts, largely due to it being an heirloom pistol. I did not mention that the fellow with whom the trade took place was my father, who received it from my grandfather. It is my intention to have the pistol restored as close to original condition as possible and present it back to him. He is a fan of color case-hardening. The original ejector rod housing has been lost, hence the aluminum housing. I intend to replace this with steel. The aluminum grip frame is beaten up and chipped, hence the desire to have it recoated, or replace it, (though I'll be keeping the original frame if I go the replacement route.) Am I to understand that the two options before me are restoration of the aluminum frame at the risk of iffy long-term wearing, or modification of a newer steel frame and replacement?
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Post by Burnston on Jul 29, 2017 21:57:52 GMT -5
By dreaded you mean much loved and sought after. You'll have to excuse my naivete. I've only ever heard it referenced in negative tones. It suppose it is possible I've been talking to the wrong people. Davet- I spoke with the man with whom the transaction took place- the ejector rod housing in indeed an alloy replacement, the original steel having long since gone the way of the buffalo. Encore64- in your cerakoating experience, does the matt black clash at all with the tone of the steel blue? A few more follow-up questions for your contributors: I. Those of you who are familiar with this situation, can you explain the process by which the alloy parts are colored and matched to the steel blue besides cerakoating? II. Is there a common process or channel through which one wishing to restore/reblue an old model generally goes or is this a "do-it-at-home" process?
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Post by Burnston on Jul 29, 2017 19:48:26 GMT -5
I simply send mine to Easton Cerakoted to be finished in matte black. Have you ever tried matching the blue of the paint to the blue of the steel? I'd like the color correspondence to be as close as possible.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 29, 2017 19:44:08 GMT -5
Good evening all,
Earlier in the month I managed to make a swap for an old model Ruger "flat top." While it's shooting/performance condition is sound, there accompanies with it some cosmetic issues I'd like to address. My dreams of re-bluing the pistol over-all are slightly diminished by the dreaded "plum" tint that often accompanies the old models and I've begun considering case hardening options for the frame and loading gate. This leaves the barrel, grip frame, and ejector rod housing. Since the ejector rod housing and grip frame are aliminum, I am considering the following two options.
A. Replace them both with steel, which would require an unknown amount of time searching for the ever elusive steel XR3 frame, but would also make the bluing process easier B. Explore various coloring options for the original aluminum parts
I would like to know who of you have experience in either of these scenarios. Processes for coloring aluminum, efforts in replacing aluminum with steel; if any of you have any input on these options, it would be very helpful to me.
The gun is not yet in hand, which is why pictures have yet to be included.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 29, 2017 15:52:04 GMT -5
Thanks fo the suggestion, gentlemen. I found a solution; swap the NM 50th for a 1957 Flattop. I'm feeling fairly satisfied.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 25, 2017 12:41:56 GMT -5
Just two weeks ago, I took the plunge and bought my first NM ,44 Mag 50th Anniversary Flattop. I have already traded the brand new in box pistol for an old model Flattop from 1956, (its a great trade story I'll have to tell later). I grew up shooting the old models. The old hands above are right; the NM is a fine pistol and worthy of its popularity. However, I found that my being used to the OM completely turned me off of the new. Though it is safer, more affordable, and can do anything the old ones can do, I found my nostalgic heart aching when I had no half cock, and every time I'd pull the hammer and hear that unfamiliar sound. The balance was different, and I felt like I was wearing someone else's boots. The NM is probably the way to go for a first single action purchase, but if you're used to the OM, it is very possible you will not be satisfied with the new. There are too many differences a nostalgic (and possibly closed minded) heart simply cannot get used to, at least in my case.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 21, 2017 15:28:17 GMT -5
I have an opportunity for a S&W Mod 19 for a very reasonable price which, according to the original receipt and serial number, was manufactured between 1978-1980.
I recently read in an article by Jim Wilson that he and other veteran shooters consider 1957-1977 as the "Golden Years" for the 19; that after that, quality diminished and shortcuts became the norm at Smith and Wesson. What quality problems began occuring at this time, and are they significant enough that I should not buy this pistol? I would ask Sheriff Wilson to elaborate, but I've bent his ear mercilessly over all manner of gun questions that I fear he may change his number and email address should I impede upon his existence once more.
I need some of you old hands to educate me.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 20, 2017 17:01:25 GMT -5
I've just come into possession of Ruger's 50th Anniversary Flattop .44 magnum. So far the results are not favorable and I am slightly regretting my purchase. It is a fine pistol; simply not for me.
Before I try and sell it I would like to test fire it using a more traditional style grip instead of the "gunfighter" style slimmer profile grips that came with it. Not knowing if I will be keeping the pistol, I'd rather not spend a large amount having grips made, so I am on the hunt for a more "Traditional" set of the New XR3 featuring something closer to Ruger's original factory contour, or any set of grips that could be easily modified to fit the New Model Flattop. If I shoot it and still don't like the gun, I'll not be out hundreds of dollars I'd have spent to make a new set.
I would appreciate a pm if anyone has a set squirreled away somewhere they're willing to part with reasonably. Thanks in advance.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 18, 2017 8:44:46 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input, gentlemen; that which I understood, as well as that which went way over my head.
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Post by Burnston on Jul 16, 2017 20:33:21 GMT -5
Good evening all,
I've been buying projectiles from Missouri Bullet Company with reasonable success. I've stuck with Brinell levels above 18 but am still having leading problems out of a 3rd gen Colt SA, especially with their #430240EK .430 bullet.
MBC has a great product and I've continued business with them because of their competitive prices: #430240EK is $50 for 500 projectiles.
I'd like to expand my horizons and find a dependable bullet from a different company for an equally or almost equally competitive price. I'm fairly new to the reloading process, so any input is helpful.
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