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Post by bagdadjoe on Jan 19, 2013 22:42:36 GMT -5
Bluing.... Who do you recommend for a Shmidt und Vesson? The 27-2 I traded for that had the "professional" black grill paint/poly combat special coating on it and I was hoping I could get the paint off so that it looked like the "before" photos I saw prior to trading for it. Only problem was the photos were before the paint and before the steel wool murder job he did on it that he covered up as well. So... although it's mechanically about a 9.9 the finish is about a 3.3 Since I have so little in it, I may spring for a moderate priced blue, it will not be a collector no matter what...  Refer to the prior post for the photos of the special finish...oooh-la-la. |
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Post by kings6 on Jan 20, 2013 0:26:25 GMT -5
Other than the rust blue on my #5, THE nicest blue job on any of my guns is the one done by Jim Stroh.
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Post by maxcactus on Jan 20, 2013 0:32:40 GMT -5
Why not just send it back home to S&W?? May not be the best blue job but it'll probably be quite reasonable and they can give it a oncee over ckeckup and action job if needed.
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Post by boxhead on Jan 20, 2013 5:49:55 GMT -5
Other than the rust blue on my #5, THE nicest blue job on any of my guns is the one done by Jim Stroh. Stroh actually sends the gun out for blueing (to an ACGG member who's name escapes me) though he does do the polishing. Agree that the work is top notch. |
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Post by bagdadjoe on Jan 20, 2013 13:53:00 GMT -5
Thanks... S&W has been getting some bad reviews. Apparently their longtime polishing guys are no longer with them. But then, who knows what the real deal is, some will make a bad comment before a good one.
I may send it anyway, like I say, it won't be a collector now. In fact, I'm going to go out in a few minutes and see what methyl chloride paint remover will do about getting the paint off. If it takes any remaining blue, it won't matter. I'll start in an inconspicuous place.....wish me luck!
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Post by bagdadjoe on Jan 20, 2013 16:02:24 GMT -5
Well, the methyl chloride didn't remove the bluing. This is beyond doubt the most severe case of "tampering" I have ever seen. Looks like the "gun butcher" took a dremel with a stone in it to try and remove the bluing up and down the length of the barrel. I'm more amazed than anything, sure am glad I don't have much in it. It actually opens up some possibilities, things I wouldn't have done with another gun. I believe I'll research and think on it. Just when you think you've seen everything, someone comes along to awe and amaze.
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Post by smirker on Jan 26, 2013 10:49:11 GMT -5
Muritic Acid removes blueing. Just rinse gun with clean water well afterward.
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Post by warhawk on Jan 27, 2013 8:37:08 GMT -5
I had Alex Hamilton of Ten Ring Precision in San Antonio reblue a Model 27 cylinder for me. It was pretty ugly, but nowhere near as bad as your 27. Looks factory new now.
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Post by weagle99 on Jan 27, 2013 11:07:17 GMT -5
Other than the rust blue on my #5, THE nicest blue job on any of my guns is the one done by Jim Stroh. Stroh actually sends the gun out for blueing (to an ACGG member who's name escapes me) though he does do the polishing. Agree that the work is top notch. This is an example of a custom .44 with Stroh's Master (high polish) blue. He does a very good job IMO.  |
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Post by pbslinger on Jan 27, 2013 11:32:14 GMT -5
I suspect you will get charged extra to polish that one. If it were mine I'd go nuts with wet or dry starting with about 220. I've done a Marlin and a Mauser and have a clue about not rounding and keeping the lines true. I use a 1" wide strip of 1/4" masonite as a backer or block for the wet or dry. It has some flex and adapts to curves. In corners and rounded areas, I use the masonite to apply pressure and pull a strip of wet or dry under it.
To do it correctly, I suppose you'd have to knock out the pins to keep from rounding them off. There are special cup tip punches for driving out pins without damage.
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